About 1/2 the time you just line them up..,.....its almost right.

The other half costs grief.

Get a degree wheel......read how to use it.

Its not that hard. Pick any degree number on the card and verify it.

Roll the motor over until Intake #1 starts to open

Oh look.....the intake takes up the lash at 28 BTDC........I must be close

Oh look the intake is open 270 degrees....... half of that is my intake centerline....etc

You dont need a dial indicator to get very close.

Just check to see nothing is stupid.......then keep it that way.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Yeah, you can just line up the dots, but how do you know the dots are in the right place?

I had 3 roller timing sets from Mopar Performance that had the dots one tooth off on the cam gear.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Had the same thing happen on Ryan's last set. Must degree! must degree! must degree!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Excellent advice for…er…doing just about anything, really.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well....not ale drinkin' or dancing or hot knifing or noboarding.......but most other stuff.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I just busted every mirror in the shop…

Ahhh. Good to go.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It's worth it just for the feeling you get when the number comes out right. I felt smart for about five hours!

Also, lining up the dots made the valve timing one tooth off what it should have been.

Ignition timing is independent of valve timing. You're working with the camshaft and getting it installed in the correct relation to the crankshaft.

Do you have a degree wheel? Dial indicator? Is the cylinder head on the engine?

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Joshua

Hi Dizzydean.

Do you have an engine out of the car with the cylinder head off, or do you intend to install the cam in an engine that is assembled?

There is a very (!) short thread in the 'engine' FAQ named 'Degreeing a cam', that at least show you the basic setup for using a degree wheel.

Here is one relatively good attempt to explain the process from summitracing.com.

Olaf.

Hah, a short edit: I did not intend to duplicate Josh's questions, his fingers were just faster than mine!

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Aspenized

I shall not tell you what to do, but unless you are very pressed for time, don't let someone else screw up your engine!! (that you can do on your own )

What I'm saying is that there is nothing more pleasing than starting that engine after an assembly, and knowing that you understand what all the pieces do and why, and that you built it! Feel the power you made! Take your time, do it yourself, ask us for advice if you need it, and we can guide you all the way.

I don't know how familiar you are with the forum, but take a look in the sticky FAQ in the 'engine', under 'Best of Doctor Dodge'. There you'll find described total buildups of two or tree engines, covering little details you've never even dreamt of!

So my advice; sit down, take a deep breath and start reading, then scribble down a plan for rebuild stages, beg-borrow-or buy the tools you need (search the forum for clever solutions before you spend any money), and within a short time you're an expert on your own engine!

Olaf.

Oh, and first of all, get yourself a degree wheel!

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Aspenized

Here's a FREE degree wheel for ya. http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

Cool!

Olaf.

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Aspenized