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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:53 pm 
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Location: Cottonton, AL
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ok first off, My name is Kevin, and i just picked up a 1982 Dodge D150 stepside, 2wd, slant 6 1bbl, 3 speed(no OD).

Ive searched quite a bit, but still have some questions.

Im trying to get a parts list together for the parts run tomorrow.
Oil- ive read through the posts, and i am confused as hell, would i be good if i went with Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 10W-30 HD?

oil filter- wix

i can smell gas in my oil, mostly when i remove the oil cap. truck is not sitting level, but will move it to a level place and check to see it the oil is over the full line(gonna change the oil anyway tho)

also it has a miss at idle, and then the other night it developed a stumble going uphill. so plan is to get plugs(ngk 6640), wires, fuel filter, fuel pump if the oil is over filled (prolly get the fuel pump just to be on the safe side), PCV valve and breather filter. all ready replaced the air filter and added a bottle of STP complete system cleaner (havent driven it tho)


now on to the other issues:
i dont have the computer on the airbox, and looks like i have a ecu on the driver side, like the one talked about in the HEI conversion, but looks to have spliced wires (the wiring is in poor shape, but i bought wire to redo a good bit of it) but dont see anything that looks like the HEI coil, and i have a standard canister coil.

so at this point im not sure of which distributer cap and rotor to get.

i have a friend who is going to bring me a factory service manual on thursday, so maybe i can sort this out.

there are a few capped off vacuum lines. and a few unplugged connections. along with a few connections i cant find where they go, including one by the coil that looks like a vacuum 90* boot, but it is a plug of some sort.

the truck starts up everytime (with the exception of when i flood it, im still learning the whole carb deal) but like i said its a little rough, like its missing.
i think the choke works fine, before i start it i push the accelerator to the floor and release it, then it starts up.

it also does not have the air pump(smog pump?) just a idler pully, is this a issue?

thats all for now, i will try to get pics of what i can tomorrow.

Thanks for any and all help,

~Kevin

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1982 Dodge D150 Stepside, Slant 6, 1bbl, 3 speed


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm
Posts: 790
Location: New England
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Start with this page Then look at this page
Take a half-hour and adjust the valves with the engine running. It will be a good bonding experience.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7426
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Oil and filter you mentioned should be just fine.

Replace the fuel pump if your over full. Most likely culprit. Fuel in oil will wipe the engine in short order. Don't run it if you have fuel in the oil.

CJ

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24521
Location: North America
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Quote:
would i be good if i went with Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 10W-30 HD?
Perfectly fine.
Quote:
oil filter- wix
Yep.
Quote:
i can smell gas in my oil, mostly when i remove the oil cap. truck is not sitting level, but will move it to a level place and check to see it the oil is over the full line
If so, change the fuel pump, which is the usual culprit behind gas in the oil. If you change the oil before you change the fuel pump, change the oil and filter again after you change the pump.
Quote:
i dont have the computer on the airbox, and looks like i have a ecu on the driver side
Good...
Quote:
dont see anything that looks like the HEI coil, and i have a standard canister coil.
HEI will work (better or worse depending on the specific coil) with can-shaped coils.
Quote:
so at this point im not sure of which distributer cap and rotor to get.
Cap: Standard CH-410 (which is now the blue cap with copper inserts that used to be marketed as "CH-410X", but there may still be some old stock black caps with aluminum inserts in "CH-410" boxes, so look before you buy)

Rotor: NAPA Echlin MO-3000. Make sure it's tan.
Quote:
the truck starts up everytime (with the exception of when i flood it, im still learning the whole carb deal)
When the engine is cold, press the gas all the way to the floor, then take your foot off the gas and crank the engine until it starts. Repeat until it stays running.

When the engine is warm, hold the gas about 1/3 of the way down while you crank -- do not pump the pedal.
Quote:
it also does not have the air pump(smog pump?) just a idler pully, is this a issue?
No.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:33 pm 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Take a half-hour and adjust the valves with the engine running. It will be a good bonding experience.
It will be a quick dead-end experience. He's got a 1982 model, built after the changeover to hydraulic lifters. There's nothing to adjust.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:06 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1566
Location: Oslo, Norway
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Hi Kevin, and welcome to the forum.

The spark plug parts number you mention is not correct, the NGK UR-4 spark plug used on '75 -> up cylinder heads, is part number 6630. These are tapered plugs, be careful so you don't overtighten them!

The fuel pump has an actuating arm that is extending onto a lobe on top of the camshaft. If you replace the fuel pump, loosen the fuel pump bolts a couple of turns only, and then turn the engine over, easiest done by pulling/pushing on a fan blade, while wiggling the pump.
When the engine is turned until the pump feels maximum loose, the pump actuating arm is off the high point on the cam lobe, and in that position it is easy to fit a new pump, and easy to remove/refit the bolts without putting any strain on them.

Olaf.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:23 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:13 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Cottonton, AL
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sorry about he miss print on the plugs, i have 6630 wrote done, not sure why i typed 6640, lol
the gap on that .035?

and for the distributor cap, the only place io can find the standard brand is summit. now i looked it up and standard makes BWD, so would the BWD C190 be a decent alternative?

and thanks for the tip on the fuel pump, i read that on another post, but thanks for the reminder. is there a torque spec for that (i have a tendency to overtighten stuff)

Thanks,
Kevin

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1982 Dodge D150 Stepside, Slant 6, 1bbl, 3 speed


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1566
Location: Oslo, Norway
Car Model:
Gap on spark plugs can be widened to .045 or maybe more when using HEI, otherwise leave them as purchased, .035 is OK.

BWD dizzy cap = no no no
Take a look at this thread.

Rockauto still seem to have the goody Standard CH410X in their lists, search your truck in the interactive list, or by manufacturer.

You can find the Echlin MO3000 rotor at Napa, the only other source for the rotor, as far as I know, is D&M Auto Parts, make a search for part number mo3000, MFG = 'ech'.

Olaf.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 7:01 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:13 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Cottonton, AL
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i can get the rotor at my local napa, but no luck with standard dizzy cap, at least not local, and it would be nice to pick one up today, but i guess i can try to use the one on there for a bit.


Kevin

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1982 Dodge D150 Stepside, Slant 6, 1bbl, 3 speed


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 6:33 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:13 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Cottonton, AL
Car Model:
so i changed the plugs, wires, pcv, breather, and fuel filter. on the test drive the stumbling went away.

now i havent changed the oil yet, and when i leveled the truck and checked the oil it was normal, and if i walked away from the truck i didnt smell gas on either the dipstick or oil cap. but i did replace the soft lines on the fuel filter.

and the rear 3 spark plugs had some oil on them, and all of them was past there change time.

i took some pics of some vacuum lines i need help with, and a few connectors. but im over my usage of internet so i will posts pics in a few days.

the carb is a holley reman. date on sticker is 5/31/07. and lookin gat holley website its a holley model 1945

and i need to know where the vacuum line from the dizzy goes. its got a yellow and black inline filter looking thing on it.

some else i noticed(only because of where i placed a trash bag) is on start up theres a black liquid thats thin like water, and smells a little like gas(couldnt tell cause of all the gas/oil on my hands). my dad thinks that the carb is dumping too much gas on start up...


im kinda bummed out cause i bought this truck for a daily, and now im kinda of regretting it, cause i really need a good daily.

just hoping i dont need major engine work...

thanks guys,
Kevin

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1982 Dodge D150 Stepside, Slant 6, 1bbl, 3 speed


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:00 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2011 5:13 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Cottonton, AL
Car Model:
Pics:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b178/ ... G0063b.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b178/ ... G0062b.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b178/ ... G0030b.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b178/ ... G0020b.jpg

General Pics of truck:
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b178/ ... e%20truck/



Thanks,
Kevin

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1982 Dodge D150 Stepside, Slant 6, 1bbl, 3 speed


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