I took a 400 mile round trip drive yesterday to a boneyard looking for some slants that I could grab some of the exhaust-end fastener set ups from.
There were two slants with the manifolds intact and what I found was neither one had the OEM fasteners in the correct locations.
One had none of the crimp nut/brass shim washer set ups and the other had a crimp nut on a conical washer in the center location with the crimp(castle)
facing outward. It did have the correct set-up on the rearmost exhaust stud and of course the stud came out of the head when I tried to remove it.

With the difficulty removing the OEM set-up, I'm guessing this is why so many slants, including my own do not have the correct fasteners in the correct location.
I've read threads about this and some have offered possible solutions.

Since I quit drinking I find I have more time to be a productive member of society so I thought I would spend some time this Sat. night to see if I could find a source for the correct fastener.
(I'm a bit stubborn/anal and have a hard time accepting that the nuts are not available)

So far I have not found the exact nut but I did find This fastener used in the aircraft industry.
Specifically the AN363


I've learned that locking fasteners have "prevailing torque", both nylon and all metal like the one I linked to.

Not having knowledge of prevailing torque I came across this discussion

I'm thinking this might be a solution if used with the proper brass shim washer (or fat washer if you will).

The only questions that remains are:
1. What is the prevailing torque for this type of fastener?
2. Could prevailing torque be accurately determined
with a "click" style torque wrench?

Thought I would throw this out there to see what my fellow slanters think.

I've taken the cotton out of my ears and put it in my mouth now.

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

Boneyard North or South of Modesto? I've been meaning to take a trip to one thats local ...I'll see if they got what you need, maybe next week or so.

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

1. Prevailing torque would have to be measured.

2. You will need a beam type or dial type torque wrench. A clicker just won't do.

Now this is just my opinion, and should be taken with a grain of salt;
I believe that prevailing torque would be difficult to measure for the nut in question. It would be measured in inch pounds or perhaps a foot pound while turning, while the normal torque of 10# would be substantially higher. Without a calibrated torque wrench, which virtually no home hobbiest mechanics have, we don't get very accurate torque anyway.
Torquing with a beam type has a lot of inherent inaccuracies, from parallax to repeatability issues. To get an accurate idea of what the prevailing torque of the fastener is, check the value several times, and check it the same way every time. Make sure you are looking straight down on the beam indicator or dial.

Look up methods for checking accuracy of your clicker torque wrench. They are fairly simple, and use a bench vice, a known mass, careful measuring of the distance the weight has to be moved along the handle of the torque wrench, and being meticulous.
If the Torque wrench is inaccurate, it can be adjusted. If your unsure about doing this, find someplace that can do it for you, like a metrology lab.

So, in short, use an analog type torque wrench to determine what the turning torque of the fastener is, then add that value to your torque setting. I don't think most clickers will show that kind of resolution, but perhaps.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I went all the way to Kelseyville in Lake County. They had a 77 Aspen that I took manifolds, head and some linkage. They also had a couple of 63-65 Valiants, one with what loked to be a 318 and one with a slant.

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

I gotta say it looks to me as if you are making this a great deal harder than it needs to be...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So if the nuts prevailing torque would be measured in inch lbs. or maybe a foot, then tourqing to 10 or 11 lbs would be within range. Is this a correct assumption or am I missing something?

Paralysis by analysis? A trait I picked up from my father I guess.
Given the number of slants I've seen with "hybrid" fastener set-ups and manifolds that appear to be intact (sans cracking) , my gut feeling is it isn't as critical as one might think from reading threads on this subject. I'm also thinking it is less of an issue when using a modified rear exhaust

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

Are you serious? Dude just throw a washer and a nut on and call it a weekend.

clean
and
shiny
ones!!!

makes ya feel better
and it goes faster
too!!

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick