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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 7:24 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Cool. Thanks.

Sam

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:24 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
I put the 10MfD capacitor in the circuit this morning, and drove the Dart to work. The error code did NOT show up. At least for now, this seems to have helped. If it works for awhile and then fails again, I suppose I can assume the Radio Shack part failed. However, it is not on the hot side of the engine compartment, and it is near the fender vent for that side.

Thanks for the tip. Hopefully this will do it. I did not calibrate it with the engine running yet. That is another thing I can do if this fails to be a real fix.

Sam

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:53 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
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Good luck and keep us posted.

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Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:51 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Location: Gaithersburg MD
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ON the trip home everything was fine once again. Warmer weather will be the real test perhaps. It seemed like such a simple thing to do. It kind of seems like magic to me, which of course is how I view all things electronic. I made a nice assembly with spade connections at each end, and both leads protected with shrink tubing, and then the entire thing enclosed in shrink tubing.

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Last edited by Sam Powell on Sat Apr 30, 2011 3:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Car Model:
Got pics of your wide band setup ??

-Mike

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 3:27 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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YOu want pics of gauge mounting, or sensor?

SAm

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 12:50 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Car Model:
were you mounted the 10mfd cap, and mounting the o2. does it matter where in line you mount the 10mfd cap ??


-Mike

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:44 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Mike, I did like 4spd said, and simply hooked one lead of the capacitor to the 12V feed for the controller, and the other lead to ground. I insulated each lead with shrink tubing so the two leads would not short together. First I soldered a wire to each lead of the capacitor. and each of these wires has a crimp connector at the end. One end has a spade connector for the 12v connection, the other has a terminal eye for a screw to ground it.

In every communication I had with Inovate, they kept saying the best connection for the Batt 12+ was direct battery connection. I think upon reflection that is their approach to smoothing out the current to minimize spikes. However, the capacitor seems like a simpler, and more effective solution to this problem. If it continues to work, you kind of have to wonder why they not mention this. The jury is still out, but it looks promising.

Sam

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 4:30 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Went to the plumbing supply house today, and was there only about 5 minutes. Came back out and started the Dart, but it took about 3 tries to get it to keep running. It runs extremely lean for the first minute after a very hot, heat soaked start. This time, it did throw the e-code 8 immediately upon start-up.

So, I went home, and calibrated the sensor with the engine running as Ed suggested. However, the feed back I was getting from the gauge was nothing like the recipe in the above post by 4spd.

Started it up with sensor unplugged and out of the exhaust and waited the recommended 20 seconds. Then shut it all down. When I plugged the sensor back into the controller (sensor hanging in the air) and started it again the gauge displayed a count down of some kind that took about 30 seconds. I pushed the button anyway and held it for 30 seconds as advised. When I released it, it proceeded to alternate between what looked like an AF ratio of 20 or so, and an e-2 code. Sort of an e-2 code. Anyway, I went ahead and shut it down, and reinstalled the sensor, and when I started it back up it proceeded to deliver reasonable looking AF ratios.I have no idea of knowing if they are accurate. I drove it back to the Plumbing supply house to get a can of glue, (dummy me for not getting it the first time), and it seemed fine. NO error codes. And in the past it would have shown one.

I would still like to know if there is a simple, cheap voltage regulator that could be used for the controller supply. Maybe for the ECU too for that matter. That sounds like an elementary electronics project.

Sam

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 5:31 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
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Quote:

So, I went home, and calibrated the sensor with the engine running as Ed suggested. However, the feed back I was getting from the gauge was nothing like the recipe in the above post by 4spd.


Sam
OK I am confused-feedback from the gauge was nothing like the recipe in my post? Which post?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 6:37 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Sorry, It was me who was confused. Gun Pilot made this post.

Sam
Quote:
Sam, you don't start the engine during the calibration. You only cycle the power to the controller.

Assuming you have the controller wired to power up when the key is on:

1. Make sure the sensor is not connected to the cable or installed in the exhast.

2. Switch the key ON for 20 seconds. The LED (if you have it hooked up) will blink a two-flash sequence.

3. Turn the key off after 20 seconds.

4. Install the sensor onto the cable but don't install it into the exhaust. Just let it hang in the open air.

5. Turn the key on. The LED will blink. When it stops blinking and glows steadily, press and hold the little switch for 30 seconds. The LED will go out during this time.

6. After the 30 seconds, release the button. The LED should come back on, may blink a few times as it's warming up, and then glow steadily. When it does, calibration is complete and operation is correct.

7. Turn the key off, install the sensor in the bung, and reconnect to the cable. Drive away happy ;)

If the sensor is overheating, Innovate has a tall bung that gets the tip of the sensor more out of the exhaust flow. That may help.


-G

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