the intent was to install a holley 2280 and 2 bbl carb and exhaust ahead of the engine re-do,, plan is to have the air in and out lined prior to the real engine work. Been driving the 83 D-150 on and off for the past 3 years, was consistently amazed at the decent highway economy (around 20 MPG) and although spunky,, the basic lack of top end power,, always assumed it had a miser 1 bbl,, almost fell off the top of the motor, after removing the air cleaner and finding a Carter BBD,, so why the lack of power,, found that with the "pedal to the metal" the carb throttle plates were only opening less than half,, at full throttle I could always see the slots in the throttle plate screws ,, truck has always been in the family, so where did that come from?,, don't know,, ordered a new throttle cable for a 2BBL, was going to use a NOS 2280, but got a good deal on a rebuild kit, while waiting for the throttle cable, rebuilt a 2280 I found at the pick apart,, it is a R40165-1,, 4306465.. 1335 with 283 jets, originally a 1985 D-150 318 carb,, started right away,,idles really smooth, used a vacuum gauge to adjust the main fuel bleeds, nice power, will post more after I see how it really runs,,,
I have a question on the vacuum line connections
this 1985 318 2280 carb,, only has three small ID sized vacuum connections , as it was a 85 lean burn, no distributor advance is identified,,,,,it does have the large diameter PCV and canister connections, I am good on those. The questions I have are on the distributor, EGR and heated air duct:
1)port on the front left lower of the carb, I put the the vacuum distributor advance on this one , it shows no vacuum at idle and increases to 20 at full throttle,
2) this is a port on the front right lower right of the carb, simular to the one above, no vacuum at idle, increases to 15 to 17 with throttle, would this be one for the EGR valve, this seems like enough to eliminate the vacuum amplifier and maybe with the temp sensor so it is not activated at low engine temps,,go right to the egr valve, and eliminate the vacuum amplifier?
3) On the rear of the carb is a large port that branches to the choke vacuum actuated pull of, this one shows high vacuum at idle (20) and falls to zero with full throttle, would this be the one for the warm air duct that feeds into the air cleaner housing?

do you think these are the correct hook up to the vacuum lines?

thanks
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Although if you look close, there is a typo in the factory diagram. The EGR and heated air fittings are swapped between the different views of the carb. I believe you hooked your hoses up correctly.

Reed

thanks,
the front view of my carb is identical to what is shown in the diagram.
the rear of this 2280 does not have a seperate heated air fitting, it does have a T in the line that runs to the choke vaccum diaphram, looks to be an alternative method to the same effect. This 2280 also has a second large diameter PVC port on the rear,, I put a cap on that one.
Nice catch on the error in the FSM, in that same view, would be the carb right side, when viewed from the front,,the canister purge and the PCV fitting are also reversed

thanks again.

DT

You must have a V-8 2280. They got the two large PCV sized ports. I can't recall what the second one was for. You are correct about the "T" junction in the choke- it is for the heated air door. You are also right about the PCV and canister purge fittings being switched in the diagrams. The canister purge fitting is definitely on the front of the carb below the fuel inlet.

Reed,

How do you adjust the idle mixture on the Holley 2280 carb?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Same as a BBD. There should be two mixture screws under the float bowl. Depending on the year and whether the 2280 was aftermarket or factory the mixture screws may be behind plugs and ay be a screw head other than Phillips. I have seen Torx and Allen head mixture screws. If the concealment plugs are there you can drill them out very easily.