83 dodge d150 225 with BBD 833od won't start when engine is warm/after running. Has been running well previously for quite a while now. Acted like a bad starter, so I've change the starter (twice). I've changed the starter relay. Checked connections, cleaned all connections, cleaned grounds. When it's warm it'll click or sometimes turn slowly. I pulled a couple spark plugs to see if cylinder was filling up with gas, no smell/no luck.
I pulled out a volt meter and tried to check for voltage drop at different points, seems ok...

Service manual troubleshooting says it could be oil viscosity too high, so I changed it (10w30) needed it anyways. Says next could be a problem with ring gear (was good about 6 months ago when I had flywheel turned).

I would appreciate any suggestion on where to go from here....I'm kinda stuck.

Also, did a HEI ignition conversion from lean burn about a year ago (and has been running fine since then).

Thanks in advance

I'm sure someone better than me will come along and have a good diagnosis for your problem.

How old is your battery?
Does the car work fine when it's a cold start?

Is your problem that when you turn the key the engine doesn't turn over at all? or tries to briefly and dies?

Thanks.

Battery cable(s) are number-1 suspect, followed by battery.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ditto what Dan said. When checking your cables, do more than a visual. I've had cables corrode completely through, and the damage could not be seen from the outside, so give them a pull at each end.

Yup. Have a helper grab hold of both cables and pull/twist them while you hold the key in the "Start" position. Cables can break internally.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Battery checks out. Tried twisting cables, no luck...but ordered new ones. The pos cable is starting to look ratty, so it's probably the culprit.

How well is the engine grounded?
Do you have the braided cable ground strap hooked up?
Where does the negative go on the battery? The engine block? or to the frame.

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Aggressive Ted

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Not sure, don't see a ground strap. Where should it be? Negative cable goes to accessory bracket and attaches to body near radiator.

I had a similar problem with a bad ground connection on a aluminum intake. Came from the factory like that. Was painted YELLOW. Put new cable on no crank . Moved cable to point on engine block cranked right up. On my/6 I replaced the 40 year old connections from head to firewall ,block to frame. Negative cable to motor block. Internally those grounds can be FUBAR'd . Get some good wire-10 awg or even8 and replace the braided connections .Use ring mounts on each end and connect to rear of head and the bolt or screw on the firewall -remove all rust from mounting areas and paint .

When I get a new ground battery cable I always attach the ground cable to one of the starters two mounting bolts-then I run a good sized one to the body from the same bolt. The idea is that the starter uses the most current (heaviest load) so I bring the battery cables as close as I can to the starter

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

This is basically what I did to make it work. I replaced battery cables, and added extra engine and starter grounds

thanks for all the help