Incorrect. '77-'82 (US/Canada), '67 and later (export).
Too wide/too many bolt holes? If so, the cylinder head is a pre-1981 item.
What numbers are stamped on the ID pad, which is the top of the block deck, facing the sky, below the frontmost spark plug, inboard of the alternator/coil bracket?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I checked under the alternator backet, but didn't found any number.I'll be checking again.

Should I set the timming 10 BTD since the engine is a 1977 or so?

For the valve cover gasket the one I receive was in two pieces and both corner that were cut were somehow square instead of round.On the box it said for 1982 to 1987.

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Still did not get the engine to run properly. When I get off the higway after a 25 miles drive from work, the engine has a rough idle. It been like that for a while. I changed the points and for a couple days it went ok, but now it's back to rough idle.

This week-end I took the distributor off the car and checked the points, they were ok, the gap was 18 still.(was scare it changed)

Should I change the spark plug gap? since I'm using point instead off electronic distributor?

Also when I drive betwen 50 and 60 miles per hour the car hesitate.When I excede 60 miles it run good.

And idle is not very good it always seem to be missing ,I can't get it to run smooth as the old engine.I've adjusted the valves that didn't change anythings it has new wires,new distributor cap.

It hesitate leaving on a corner unless I floor it almost.The jets in the carburetor seem to work ok.

Really don't know what to do next.

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Yesterday I was checking the timming, and when I disconnected the vaccum hose to the distrbutor and reconnecting it , nothing changed just as if their was no more vaccum at the base of the carburetor, if I connected the hose instead of the one for the choke witch is in the middle off the carb it would work, but when I connected it to the base there would be no vaccum. Today I checked it again ,the vaccum was ok at the base of carb, I would deconnect the hose the engine ran slow and reconnecting it, it would run faster like normal.

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I think there are two problems, timing not set correctly, and carburetor tune.

The vacuum advance has to be connected to “Ported Vacuumâ€￾ it is the higher vacuum tap on carburetor, and dose not show vacuum at idle because it located just above the throttle plate. Once throttle is opened, that tap will see engine vacuum, and activate the diaphragm in vacuum advance to advance timing.

When engine is idling there should be no vacuum advance, only advance is what is pre set or in other words static or base timing.

Once engine comes off of pre set idle rpm, the timing needs to be increased. This is accomplished by two methods mechanical advance where governor’s weights in distributor move outwardly advancing timing, and by vacuum where vacuum advance is determined by amount of vacuum based on throttle opening. That is, at low vacuum, say at WOT, the vacuum advance won’t advance timing, but at constant cruse when engine vacuum is high, vacuum advance will dial in additional advance for better fuel economy.

As for running rough, I think two problems are causing this. First is the idle speed is set too high causing the carburetor to be into the transition circuit, that is a point halfway between running off of the idle circuit, and main jets. This will cause a lean condition when throttle is opened making for a hesitation. Once you have no vacuum advance at idle, reset base timing and adjust idle speed.

Rough and high idle could be caused by vacuum leak, which can be found by spraying carburetor cleaner around all gaskets, in intake system, and also bad vacuum lines, and power brake boosters. When spraying, the engine rpm changes you have found a vacuum leak. You need to inspect all these places, and correct any leaks.

Also hesitation at cruse speed can be caused by a weak accelerator pump shot. With engine off, choke wide open look down carburetor and by hand open throttle. You should see a good strong steady squirt of fuel injected into carburetor as the throttle is opened. If it is a dribble, or intermittent stream the accelerator pump is not doing its job, and a carburetor rebuild is needed.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thank's

Found out yesterday that vaccum hose for advance was pluged in the wrong place. I found carburetor illustration that show were it should be.

Retimed the engine today at 5° btd, but when I shut the engine it seemed to keep running a little. Witch tells me that timming is wrong.I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see if it is beter or worst.

I'll check the carburetor but so far idle screw is completly unscrew, even at some point I could not reduce idle speed no more. Engine idle was not really too fast but still could not reduce it .

I'm just trying to set this engine properly since it was given to me just like that , not sure what year it is, and never saw how it was instaled before.

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Fast idle with idle speed screw fully backed off can be caused by two conditions: vacuum leak; and or timing too advanced.

I know you set it at +5 degrees, but there is a possibility that the harmonic balance has slipped, and that setting is not true. Buy having too much basic timing, idle will be elevated, and cause mechanical advance to start kicking in resulting in a too fast idle uncontrollable by idle speed screw.

Find top dead center of #1 as it is completing compression stroke, and look at timing mark on harmonic balance to see if it is at zero. If it is not at zero, than the harmonic balancer has slipped, or in other words the rubber guts have aged and let the outer portion reposition its self. Once this happens timing mark will give false timing readings.

You need to have throttle plate slightly cracked open when at idle. Once carburetor is set properly, and timing is correctly set, your engine will settle down, and run much better.

Just for the heck of it, dial back your timing a little bit more lowering idle speed, and see if the idle speed screw becomes functional. Than take the car for a ride to see if the hesitation has diminished any.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Several things you have mentioned concern me.

(1) You mentioned the new motor has an EGR valve. Your 65 did not come with an EGR valve. I recommend you remove the EGR valve and cover the holes with a flat plate of iron to seal the openings permanently.

(2) You mentioned you adjusted the valves. If the motor you installed is a 1987 motor, it will have hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifter motors do not have adjustable rocker arms.

(3) You ordered a valve cover gasket for a 1987 head but it did not fit. This plus the fact that you can adjust the rocker arms leads me to believe that you might have an 87 block and cam but someone has installed a pre-1981 cylinder head and rocker arm assembly. or, that the motor in the 1987 pickup is not, in fact, a 1987 motor and is a pre-1981 motor.

(4) I also believe you should check for vibration dampener slip.

(5) You need to get the casting numbers off of your head and block and look them up in the parts matrix HERE. This will tell you for sure whether or not your motor is a hydraulic lifter or solid lifter motor.

(6) Instructions on how to diagnose and repair your carburetor can be found HERE.

It sounds like you are assuming the motor is an 87 motor but it is actually not an 87 motor or it is a mix of part of an 87 motor and something else. Before we can help you more we need to know exactly what you are working with, including the type of carburetor on the motor. One we know the year of the motor and the type of carburetor, we can give you better information such as the base timing and how to fix the carburetion problems.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Actualy as said previouly the engine may not be 1987, since it has a 2 barrel caburetor.
for the rough idle when in gear, the problem was solve when I found out that the advance vaccum hose was connected in the wrong place. That cause the distributor to receive vaccum constantly and the distributor had to much advance at idle.
The idle speed couldn't be set with the idle screw on the carb because of that bad connection.

Today I scraped the paint off the serial# location on the motor.

serial# 9 225 926 21
casting # f 530 11 then 2338 in some kind of a plate shape with srew shape cast in the block. Under this plate shape are the letters AAWJ

it has 5 frost plug.

the head has the same plate shape with 2338 also ,
and before this number there are dot placed in a half circle whith 1 dot folowed by 2 dot one on top of the other, then 3 dot on top of each other with an arrow pointing to the 2 dot.
And there is a 5 folowed by a circle of 9 dot with an arrow pointing the third dot.

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Have a look at this site, and book mark it for future reference.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Engine was at tdc when I first put the distributor in, had no choice if I wanted to line the rotor with #1 spark plug wire.

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