Give you a run down on my build..I have the 225 30 over 280/270 erson clifford intake 390 holley 4 barrel, 51 primary jets 6.0 power valve, and the lightest sping on the secondary vacuum pod, 3200 edge stall converter. I also put light springs on the dizzy, I think it was the blue ones. Set the timing at about 6-8 degress BTDC. Running about 14" vacuum at around 900 rpms. Here's what I can't correct..When I nail it or power brake off the line, there's no hesitation, only when I'm cruzing down the road and decide to pass and nail it, the engine cough's and then it goes, and I notice when the pedal is to the metal its not climbing as fast as when the pedal is only 3/4's the way down. Seems it has more pick up when you don't give it full throttle. What's the theory on this behavior. If anyone knows the answer, that will help..I tried alot of different timings, and adjustments on the carb, and that don't help. Could it be a vacuum leak in the intake? Thats what it get from the locals around here..they all chevy guys, and don't know mopars. I hate to pull the intake, if its something simpler that I'm overlooking. Thanks Guys..

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Brian Long

Sounds like the light spring on the secondaries is killing you.....too big of a vacuum drop when the secondaries open.

Sounds like it'sruning fine long as your running on the primaries.

Change to a stiffer spring till it goes away.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hi Ted
Thanks for the info..will this correct the problem as far as the pedal issue..with 3/4 throttle runnin better than wide open?

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Brian Long

Most "street" guys run the yellow or purple springs when on the street.

I think I'd also richen up the jetting in the secondaries to about a 54, if you have the plate, it's time to get a metering block conversion kit.

Lightest springs in the dizzy isn't good on the street either as the distributor will be "all in" no matter what rpm range you are at, and if they come on quick the weights can "bounce" for a bit as their pins slam into the end of the governor slots.

14" of vacc at idle with that cam is not the best (I'd expect that if you were at 65 mph in 3rd and moving past some trucks on the interstate).

Sounds like you'll now be faced with deciding whether this is strip only or 'street' friendly.

-D.Idiot

yeah i don't have the metering block for the carb for the secondairies. Where can i get one? As far as the bouncing dizzy issue, that may be some of my problem. I do have a bouncing timing mark, when I put the light on it, even at idle it bounces. Could this be caused by the light springs?. What color springs should I need for street with my set up.

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Brian Long

Yes, it could especially at a 900 rpm idle.

If you get it to idle below that maybe, the weights wouldn't lift. You should be running no lighter than the green springs from bigslant6fans spring kit. One heavy spring and one medium spring might be better.

Summit and Jeg's carry the metering blocks if your local store doesn't have them.....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted: I’ll second that, when your secondary’s open too soon with limited air flow, engine gets a whack of lean mixture making for a big stumble. You need more rpm before opening those secondary’s, and rate of opening needs to be slowed down a bit. A stiffer spring will fix that problem.

I hope you have the quick change secondary spring kit installed, making for quick easy spring changes.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hey Guys
thanks for all your inputs and ideas. I will change the spring as see if that fixes me up. Unfortuantly I don't have the quick change cover, but thats a good idea,,never knew they had such a thing. thanks again guys,,i'll let you know the outcome.

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Brian Long

If you're going to do it, you might as well do it all at once so you don't keep pulling the carb off.

For best tuneability:

Install Secondary quick change kit: 20-59
This will replace your top cover so you only need to undo 2 screws
to change the spring...not the whole housing.

Secondary Spring assortment if you don't have it yet:20-13

Secondary Metering Block Kit is:34-6
Has longer screws to mount your bowl, has gaskets also.

You will want to also buy 2 jets of appropriate size as the
block does not come with them.

-D.Idiot

Whats the part number from summit for the secondary metering block for my 390 holley 4 bbl,,is it the AED6300 or the AED6310, or non of the above. I was looking on summit and saw these..will these work?

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Brian Long

I see the one you talking about,,,just ignore the previous question..I think I will get that tomorrow. hope this solves my problems..Thanks again guys.

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Brian Long

That could be a worn timing chain. You can check it by removing the distributor cap, and observe the movement of the rotor, while turning the engine over by hand. You can grab a fan blade and turn the engine to the TDC mark first, then you can read the timing chain slack in degrees off the timing marks on the balancer. (mine is 7-8 degrees slack, and jumps around at all speeds)

Olaf.

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Aspenized

No, he put drag springs in, they are "all in" by idle... they don't stay stable at lower rpm and have a tendency to slap and oscillate as the weights are thrown to the end of the slot then bounce off which causes timing to be off, then idle suffers and it starts all over again. These are meant to allow the engine to do one thing, run up to 5-6K keep it there, launch, then maintain max mech timing until the run is over...

Best solution is per Ted, put a set of springs in that allow a smooth but somewhat quick ramp up on the timing but have a heavy enough spring to keep it from slapping against the end of the slot.

-D.Idiot

Almost four years ago I purchased a 67 Dart that had been built as a drag car, but looked stock. Had a Holley 390, Clifford intake & headers, duel exhaust, monster cam that made 0-5 Hg at idle, and a fluttering fast advancing timing curve. It took several months to straighten this combination out so the car could be easily driven on the road, as I don’t race it. I feel your pain. LOL

You will find an article on [url=http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46266]recurving a distributor[/url], distributor vacuum can [url=http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13198]listing[/url], and Timing curve / recurve [url=http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38471]information[/url] at the head “Engineâ€￾ under sticky: FAQ.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Well I got the parts in yesterday from summit (springs for the carb and metering block for secondairies and quick change spring kit) installed everything and it seems to run alot better and smoother, one thing I did notice when I had the carb off and installing the pod spring, after i installed the spring and tested the pod to see if it worked (shooting compressed air in the primary) it seems the secondairies doesn't open up all the way vertically, goes about 3/4's the way and stops, it doesn't open up the same as the front two butterfly's, is this normal?. I can try to force it with my hand, but thats all there is,,the vacuum diaphram is bottomed out all the way to the top cover even with the spring out of the pod. Its like the rod on the diaphram is too long, I say this because when I installed the diaphram I had to push it up about 1/4 of an inch to get the hole in the diaphram rod to line up with the linkage, this is about what I need for the secondairies to open all the way....humm any comments on this? Oh well back to part 1..It runs good, but now it hesitates at a lower rpm now, as before it was at higher rpm like cruzin speed..now it hesitates at about 20mph and give it 1/2 throttle it coughs..Never changed the springs yet on the dizzy..think this could be the problem?

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Brian Long