Good evening.I just bought a 1965 slant six Valiant,which was taken apart by previous owner and then gave up.The original engine pistons are seized due to contact with with water;don't know if the block can be machined.A cast crankshaft from a late 70's truck was included,but too much crankshaft end play and needs to be rebuilt.I can do all the work,except for machining.Any recommendations on a good machine shop in Nashville tn?Plan to use a 2 barrel carb and the HEI ignition conversion.Will use it as a daily driver:can use some extra power,but will not race,nor abuse.Want to be as efficient as possible(decent power/good economy)which compression,cam and brand of parts,such as bearings,pistons,etc.,should i use? Any assistance will be appreciated. Jorge[color=black][/color]

Hi Jorge!

That was hard to read! I take it your using a phone. Spaces after periods work for my old eyes.

Here's the trouble. If your using a '65 transmission, the late model crank has a different register size. You can put a spacer in to make up for the slop to keep the converter centered, or, if the crank pocket is machined, install an appropriate bearing for a manual trans.

A cast crank from a late model will be set up for a different connecting rod than the old forged cranks used.

Go out to your collection of parts. Let us know what transmission you have, if applicable, the converter snout diameter, the numbers on the sides of the rods, and any other info you find, like the stamp on the front of the block on the deck. It will be on the passenger side. The surface that the head would bolt to.

I'm sure we can help you determine what you have, what you can use, and assist you in building a solid, dependable, and moderately fuel efficient ride!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Good evening.I have the adapter for the latter engine,which is a 75-77.

Want to rebuilt this engine only(no mixing parts from forged crankshaft engine.

Need to know which cam will mild improvement in power without affecting fuel economy.

Which replacement parts(bearings,pistons,etc) are the best.

The car is automatic 904. Thanks. Jorge

The MP244 is an upgrade over the early cam as far as power with good economy. Erson offers it as the RV10M.
A bit more oompf can be had with teh RV15M. This cam can be had in an RDP grind as well. The RV15M will provide a bit more lift.

Stock replacement pistons can be had with many Master rebuild kits, and you can specify the later OEM grind for the cam.
If you go that route, you will want to measure chamber size and bump up compression a bit.

Another route, depending on your budget, would be the Wiseco K-1 build. It will allow for considerably elevated performance levels. No further compression modfications will be needed. It would be a good idea to mock up prior to final assembly, and perhaps look into oversize valves to take greater advantage of these parts.

There are a lot of ways to go, so check the engine build matrix in the FAQ in this section. (Engine)

Most mild performance builds will improve economy, so long as travel speeds and acceleration are kept in check. Any time the added power is tapped, economy can suffer.

I find it very difficult to keep my foot off the long pedal most of the time.

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/2776754648.html Here is a add I just found.

It may still be available. IIRC this guy thinks everything he has is gold.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick