G'day all,

I'm from the land down under, and I'm looking to start a 225 slant six in a 62 S-series Valiant project.

I plan to get the car to do an n/a flat 13 quarter. I plan to use independent runner EFI as the fuelling side.

The car will be a weekend warrior that does drag runs every now and then, so it must be street driveable, but does not have to behave perfectly.

Any ideas on cam, headwork, etc to achieve this?

Cheers,

Dave

Did no one think I was serious when I posted this question?

Dave

Everything you need to know has been covered here before.
Check through some old posts or do a search. Check in the articles section as there is some info in there also.
check this out for some ideas
http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum4/HTML/000051.html
hope that helps.
P.S. havent done any mods on mine yet so I cant help with any personal experience.
http://flag.blackened.net/mopar/

_________________
94 Falcon 4.0 auto
70 Valiant 265 Hemi auto
70 Valiant 318, 904, Coupe
69 Valiant 225 auto x 3 (1 sedan, 2 coupes)
64 Falcon 250 2V auto
yes, I have too many projects.

Dave,

Fingers is right. We are more than happy to answer specific questions, but for a question as general as yours you can get a ton of info by searching/reading old posts. You will sound more "serious" if you have done some homework first.

For starters, you will need:

-Max 25-2700 lbs total weight (with you and fuel)
-Minimum 3000 stall converter or 4 speed (or more) stick
-Bigger valves (like SB Ford 1.78/1.46 or SB Chev 1.72/1.50) and port work (search "head porting" or similar terms on this site)
-Minimum 240@0.050" cam with at least 0.500" lift, probably more like 250-260@0.050"
-Min 11:1 comp
-Min 3.55 rear gear, probably more like 4.30

Hope this helps,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ok then.

So, a s-series weighs about 2750lbs standard, right? I'm about 215lbs on top of that...

I was going to get a 5sp manual and 3.55 to 3.7 lsd gears (I don't mind about consistency of quarter results, hence manual.)

Over here, oversize valves are common in 1.75in and 1.55ex, as they fit well in the local 6 heads. They are the go then?
I figure I'll do the usual, 3 angle valve seat job, backcut valves, 30 thou undercut valve stems (with stainless 1-pce exhaust valves), streamlined guides and porting to suit.

I was told to start off at something like 232@050 and increase once I find the results it gives. You reckon I should go straight to 240-250 then?

Dave

You have a pretty good plan here. I like the fact that you have a good plan for a nice cylinder head, that is where the power is found. Be sure to do some porting work and mill the head / block to increase the compression.
As for the cam, that is a "personal choice" item, how rough of an idle can you stand?
DD

A fairly rough idle is fine by me

A couple of things I don't have answers for:

I've been told don't use the heads with the spark plug tubes, to just buy one of the later model heads with the better chambers, as I'd be wasting my time otherwise - is this true?

Also, some people report that they've 'angle shaved' the head, is there any real benefit to this? I gather it's shaved off on the angle that gives greater angle from the intake manifold into the head?

I was thinking of a twin 2.25" exhaust, it should be fine with a project car, and I've always wanted twins anyway

Cheers,

Dave

2.25" duals will be more than enough for any Slant. I have 2X2.25 into a single 3" on my quick car.

There are racers here using either style of head chamber and going very fast. If you can get ahold of a later ('68-up) revised chamber head (might still have plug tubes), then you may as well start with that. To my knowledge, no one has done extensive testing to see if it's any better on a race motor.

A 232 cam would be a good place to start, but I think you will have tough times getting much into the 13s with one. Make sure to up your compression with any big cam to keep your low end and decent idle.

Angle milling is another "heresay" trick that I have used. 0.080" off the intake side and 0.180" off the plug side of the head has given me about 10.5:1 comp with stock pistons. Others have done as much as 0 on the intake and 0.200" on the plug side. This changes the combustion chamber some and tilts the ports down toward the cylinder. I have seen no reliability problems with this setup. Some have also angle milled the head bolt bosses to match the angle of the deck so it's easier on the bolts (bending).

Cheers,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Excellent - exhaust's sorted then

Ah, also good to hear, because in Aus we did get the revised chamber head with the plug tubes, but we didn't get the next one.

Ok, might be better off starting 240ish then. Any suggestions on lobe separation angles, and whether to use different durations for the intake compared to the exhaust?

Angle milling does sound like it'd be worth a shot.

Would you use the 198 rods in motors like these? As far as I know we never got any 198s in Australia.

Thanks,

Dave

All our slants were 225 cube, so 198 rods would have to be sourced from the USA.

_________________
94 Falcon 4.0 auto
70 Valiant 265 Hemi auto
70 Valiant 318, 904, Coupe
69 Valiant 225 auto x 3 (1 sedan, 2 coupes)
64 Falcon 250 2V auto
yes, I have too many projects.

I have tried about 6 cams on Slant. My favorite is my 250 @0.050", 0.540", 112 centerline, 110 lobe centers (pretty sure on last number, but not written down anywhere). Decent idle with 10.5-11:1 comp (down to 7-800 but bumpy) and makes great power 3000-6000+.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ok, well I guess I'll see what profiles around that area are in Oz.

Are the 198 rods worth the effort of importing, do they show much benefit in that cam's range?

Dave

The short answer, No

The "long rod" 225 is a nice build and can give you an "edge" but it is hard to find the 198 rods even in the US.

Here is what the long rod engines does for you:
-Allows for high compression without head or block milling.
-Gets you a lighter piston that uses thinner rings
-Provides more "dwell time" for the piston at TDC and that help prevent detonation and makes a bit more power. (better rod ratio)

Another problem is the 2.2 pistons are also getting hard to find and the ring sets for these are pretty expensive.

So based on power vs $$$ spent, you're better-off putting your $$ into cylinder head porting and a nice exhaust system.
DD

Ok, good news then!

All I need is here, just need to find me a good S-series and start work

I also realise it would be important to have a suspension that can be set for drags, what do you all use (especially those with R and Ss)?

Dave

Ok, noone wants to give away their suspension secrets, that's ok - trial and error it is

Is anyone with a beefy slant running injection? I have enough ideas for my setup, but i'd like to know what you people are doing with regards to the fuelling.

Thanks,

Dave