Hello,

I am having a few problems with my Duster that I would like some opinions on please.

Let me tell you a bit about the engine.

The carb has been rebuilt. The spark plugs (changed to the recommendation here in the forums), wires, rotor and cap, timing chain, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter, breather filter; and tires (not that those really matter for my problems).

Problem 1: Since I purchased the car, it has had a dead spot in the pedel. The engine has been timed by me and professionally (paid a mechanic). We both have tried everything we can think of and can't get it to go away. Tomorrow I am going to attempt the HEI mod as a friend of mine thinks the coil is going bad which might be causing some of the trouble.

Problem 2: Fuel Line Mod - Can someone help me find a performance quality fuel filter that I should use; specify a part number? Every time I look for one I feel over whelmed and misguided on the choices. Please someone make the choice for me. I want a quality high flow/performance filter to complete the mod. THANK YOU

Problem 3: Windshield wipers. So the pivot, or wiper "transmissions", or wiper brackets; or whatever they are called. Where can I get them. Only the drivers side wiper works, the passengers does not. The drivers side is loose and has a lot of play in it. The passengers is frozen in place. Any thoughts?

Problem 4: Well, my last problem doesn't really require input, but I want to share it since I am getting upset with every problem that is arising with the car. The engine has no compression. I figured this out after starting the engine without the first plug in the engine and felt no pressure pushing my finger out. This would probably be one reason why my engine has NO power and potentially the poor MPG (at least 15 MPG or less, and there are NO leaks)...


Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on this or any other options for me, please let me know...

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1974 Plymouth Duster

What setting was used? What year is the car? Is it a California or 49-state car?
Wix 33032 or NAPA Gold 3032.
Go here and get the windshield wiper seal kit (search the page for "wiper"). It includes grease fittings for the wiper pivots so once you've removed them and freed up the stuck one, you can grease them so they won't freeze up again. At the same time you'll be putting in new seals for waterproofness. The bushings are probably shot, too; get new ones (3) from the dealer because they're better quality than the Chinese sftermarket ones. Part number 3799 089.
It is difficult or impossible to get a good seal between the spark plug hole and a finger; if the engine really had no compression it wouldn't start or run.
City, highway, both?

Have you got the three books described in this thread yet?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan!

At this point I don't know what setting is in use. The car is a 1974 Duster California car (with the emissions crap removed).

Thank you for the advice for the windshield wipers and fuel filter.

I have 2 of the 3 books; I can't find the service manual for my car. I've previously checked out the website you recommended, but each time I looked there (and a few other websites) I gave up on finding that book.

And my no compression is a slight exaggeration; the engine had some kick o my finger, but not at what it could be. I realize that using my finger in a spark plug hole is neither a good seal or a valid test, but regardless I've felt more pressure using the same method a few times before. But I understand what you mean. Regardless, the engine has no power, 0-60 in 75 seconds (another exaggeration, but it is really awful).

And it is probably 15 MPG combined. I haven't measured it overall really. I am trying to keep my drives short until it is really reliable.

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1974 Plymouth Duster

Has the Valve lash been checked / adjusted recently?
DD

Nope, that is next on the list...

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1974 Plymouth Duster

That's important to know. Try setting it at 5° BTDC. Also, you will want to check for timing chain slack. Pop off the distributor cap and, using the belt and fan blade, manually rotate the engine in one direction until you see the distributor rotor begin to turn, then see how far you can manually rotate it the other direction before the distributor rotor starts turning. Use the timing marks as a guide/gauge to how many degrees the crank turns before the distributor moves. If there is more than a degree or two of perceptible lag, the T-chain is slack and/or the cam sprocket is worn.
"emissions crap removed" could mean anything from knowledgeable bypass of those devices and systems that hurt driveability, performance, and mileage, to random and ignorant yank-out of anything that has a vacuum hose or a wire connected to it. Please be (much) more specific. Was the OSAC valve bypassed? What (exactly) was done with the EGR system? The PCV valve? The charcoal cannister?
That's the easiest one, and you really need it. If you want a paper one, a quick Google search will show you lots of options as will an eBay search. If you want it as a PDF on CD-ROM, go here. There are two volumes and you need both, the body service manual and the chassis service manual.
Refer above re "emissions crap removed".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

15-16 MPG was typical on all my 225/auto A-bodies. It might go as low as 12-13 in winter (20F temps) local driving or just up to 20MPG at highway cruise during the summer (no-A/C).

As far as your "dead spot" goes, have you confirmed that your carb accelerator pump works properly? (ie, it gives a strong shot of gas as soon as you move the throttle).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Yes, the carb accelerator pump does work fine.

I talked to the mechanic that performed the timing for me; and the magic number is 5 BTDC which isn't different from what I did. But he did inform me that he reworked the vacuum hoses a bit.

As far as the "emissions crap", I simply have bypassed the OSAC valve as previously instructed by you (Dan). The PCV valve is new and in place. The charcoal canister I have not touched at all in any form. I have attempted to run the engine with the EGR system taken out of play (when I was timing the engine myself - I hooked it back up when I realized it was not the problem at hand) and - as it stands now - hooked back up. But as I said above, the hired mechanic reworked the system a bit and I haven't attempted to sort out what he did exactly, a little beyond my skills.

The mechanic did shed some concern, which I am going to replace soon, about the vacuum advance on the distributor not working properly. He also had a theory that the carb is not in 100% working order to the visible eye.

Also, does anyone have a recommendation on a "premium" version of the Standard BlueStreak #FD-478X since it is no longer available (in reference to the HEI conversion)?

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1974 Plymouth Duster

Uh...what does he mean by that?
That'll certainly cause stumble/hesitation and poor mileage.
Your mechanic speaks in riddles.
FD-478.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What does he mean by that... Well, bare with me here, but I will try to rephrase what I was told in even worse gibberish...

Something about there are two type of distributors that require a different type of vacuum. When he described it to me, in my mind, I pictured him reversing the locations the vacuum hoses enter/exit the carb (because he figures that it was backwards when I got it). So I dunno, that I beyond my scope...

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1974 Plymouth Duster

There is one kind of vacuum hookup that is correct on all slant-6 distributors. There aren't two. Guess you will have to describe the start and end points of each of the vacuum hoses to figure out whether this guy knows what he's doing and just can't explain it very clearly, or if he's a maroon.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, I think I am at the end of the road here with ideas.

The timing chain is new (Comp Cam). The timing is completed per spec. The valve is adjusted per spec. The vacuum hoses are supposedly fine (I will diagram those for us later to make sure we are all on the same page). The spark plugs are new and per recommendation. New air filter, new PCV valve, new breather filter, new tube seals, new plug wires, new cap and rotor, new vacuum advance, carb rebuild kit, HEI conversion, and a bit more that I can't think of.


At this point, I still find there to be too much play in the timing (as if there is chain stretch - but seeing how it is new). Could this be the distributor that is the problem (that is simulating chain stretch)?

Any thoughts? If you think it may be the distributor, do you have one you recommend I replace it with?

On a side note, when using the A/C, there is a drain inside the car (passengers side) that drains water onto the passengers side floor. Is that drain supposed to be hooked up to a hose somewhere?

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1974 Plymouth Duster

Its possible that the timing chain was installed a tooth off and is not degreed correctly, that would be your dead spot and low cylinder pressure.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

The A/C condensate drain should exit outside the car, yes.

Distributor drive pinion could be faulty, have you checked to see how much actual slop there is between the crankshaft moving and the distributor moving?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Vote #2 on the above.
You need to make sure the vacuum advance (VA) is working correctly and is connected to the correct vacuum source. (ported vacuum, Not manifold vacuum)
If the VA is not working or is connected to manifold vacuum, you will have the problem(s) you are discribing.
DD