I'm using a normal iron 2bbl supersix intake, and a holley 2280 carb. The carb is a later-year unit, without the external vent...one Dan recommended off ebay. The carb works great, but I'm having a hell of a time hooking up a new choke. yes it is the correct choke...later year exhaust manifold with the 'open' choke port.

I installed the choke and hooked the rod to the carb, seemed to fit, however, where the hole is positioned on the carb just doesn't seem like it will work. When I close the choke (turn it clockwise. looking at the carb from the passenger side) the hole moves up and down. The choke is bolted to the exhaust manifold, so it comes at the carb from an angle. The problem is when the choke is ALL THE WAY open, the hole goes just beyond the radius point...so when the spring is cold it's actually trying to push the choke OPEN. I have to physically judge the rod up a very slight amount for the hole to be beyond that radius point, and then the rod correctly pushes the choke closed.

What gives here? I've tried bending the rod a few different ways, nothing. It's like that hole is slightly in the wrong location. Has anyone encountered difficulties like this?

That carb is designed for a 318 engine. Everything is the same as for a 225 except the choke connection. I bought one, and swapped the choke plate assembly from another (225) 2280 that was otherwise worn out.

I have heard that others have had success in bending the choke arm, but I don't see how that would work. There's a danger of ruining the choke altogether.

If you can't find the part, maybe you can convert to a manual choke. I wonder if one of those electric choke conversions would solve the problem?

I'm very glad I bought the carb. Finding a used BBD or 2280 that still worked was impossible.

I just converted to a manual choke. Takes away the hassle of making it work. Just pull, start, push and go lol.

_________________
64 dart GT /225
...........____ .
...._n_.[____].
..@\...\=| |....
....\.\...\ //....
.....L\....\......
.......\____\....

I installed a manual choke also. I just had to make a simple bracket to hold the cable in place. It fits on one of the holes on the exhaust manifold that held the original choke assembly. Simple but effective

I am having the very same problem as the OP. I don't want to use a manual choke and thought about the carbsonly electric choke but would like to know if anyone has the correct Slant 6 choke assembly to put on my otherwise new 2280. Thanks! Search works great, don't think I could have described the issue as good as the_shadow

I don't have the holley. I got a BBD. I have an extra choke for a BBD if you find it will help. It has a wire that goes to a modulator. I don't have one of those and good luck finding one. I could have just bought the aftermarket auto choke for the same thing I ended up spendin on the original and they say it doesn't work as good.

My old truck came with a manual choke. One of the few knobs on the dash has a big "C" on it and I don't intend to remove it but it just won't work with a BBD. Auto choke carbs have a notched cam for the fast idle. A manual choke has a smooth cam that just gets larger the farther the choke is pulled. Wasn't much fun with the original carb- you had to push the gas peddle a little to help pull the knob out. I can't imagine the trouble it would cause with and automatic choke carb but it may work fine as others have suggested.

A BBD also has all the wrong angles on the choke "puller". My manual choke would only open it half way. I could probably change the bracket but maybe not. With the other problems I just didn't try.

I may revisit that idea if the OEM choke doesn't work right.

Danny

Carburetors equipped for manual choke have different, much longer choke lever arms so you can effectively modulate the choke by means of a sufficiently long travel from open to closed. They often have a poppet valve in the choke plate, a spring-staging setup, or both to allow air to bypass the closed choke plate once the engine starts (the manual-choke equivalent of the choke pull-off) and they have smooth rather than stepped fast-idle cams. I haven't yet seen a manual-choke conversion on an auto-choke carb that really worked well enough not to bug the carp outta me.

The difficulty is the difference between the V8 and \6 choke lever. The \6 choke lever's rod attachment point is spaced further away from the carburetor and is rotated slightly vs. the V8 lever. Late Carter BBDs have the choke lever attached to the end of the choke shaft by a screw, so the V8 and \6 levers can easily be swapped. The Holley lever is swaged onto the end of the shaft; no easy swap. I keep meaning to check and see if the necessary choke shaft and lever assembly can still be had from Holley. Probably not, but I will try to remember and get around to it sooner than later.

In the meantime, I definitely have better results starting with the electric choke kit, making my own choke pushrod from brass rod stock of the correct diameter. I can compensate for the closer-to-carburetor V8 choke lever by making the carb end (top) of the pushrod longer than the original pushrod, then using two circular spring clips to secure the pushrod to the lever (one on each side of the lever). This is often enough to resolve the binding and allow the choke to operate correctly. If not, a bend can be placed in the rod to help make the angles less impossible. Make sure you're using a thick carb base gasket to lift the carb high enough; that in itself can do the trick!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan! I am using the thick carb gasket and still having the problem. If I set the choke by going under the hood and giving the necessary nudge all is good. Otherwise it will start and be at the curb idle setting and I have to wait a few minutes before I try to drive off. I took a look at the lever and you are correct would require a new choke shaft assembly. Maybe the end that the choke rod attaches to can be modified with a bracket to compensate. Do you have a pic of the Slant 6 2280? Thanks.

This ebay listing states the carburetor is for a slant 6. Good pic of the choke rod attaching point. Definately looks different than the V8 Holley 2280 that I am presently using and causing a bind problem for the choke rod. listing #200702752221 Thanks!

Fab64 came up with a very ingenious solution to using a v-8 bbd or 2280 on a slant six with the slant six choke setup.









Here you can clearly see the V-8 butterfly piece hooked to the slant six choke linkage. Fab64 reports this allows the choke butterfly to operate correctly with no problems.

[quote="Reed"]Fab64 came up with a very ingenious solution to using a v-8 bbd or 2280 on a slant six with the slant six choke setup.

Reed, thankyou for the pics. That is exactly what I was thinking about fabbing up. Awesome idea Fab64!

I used a small washer which I cut in half and drilled the appropriate holes. Now the choke rod closes the choke when I press the pedal on a cold engine. Some more fine tuning such as choke pull-off next but slowly getting there...

Years later, this thread is helping me immensely!

_________________
Porkstick

Looks like all the various ways we've been adapting the chokes on 273-318 BBD carbs for use on a Slant-6 are obsolete, as the correct Slant-6 choke lever can be bought as an individual part for six bucks.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Cool stuff, so change out the v8 choke lever with this new part from Qjparts? And, boom you have a slant6 compatible choked 2bbl?

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack