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Whoah, hold it, let's not be gooping anything up with JB Weld just yet!
One of the problems with the Chilton (and Haynes) books is that they consolidate the many different versions of every part and system into generic information that usually doesn't directly apply to exactly what's on your car. Many carburetors have the casting provisions for the hot idle compensator valve, but do not actually have the passages drilled or the valve or plate installed. If the HIC valve were actually missing from a carburetor supposed to have it, you'd have an enormous vacuum leak and great difficulty getting the engine to idle smoothly or at the correct speed.
Taking this information I went back to the car and tried to see if there was any suction at the HIC valve port and putting my finger over the opening I could not feel any suction at all. The car was idling pretty rough which is what led me to this path in the first place but after a few days of driving it seems to have smoothed out. Guess we just needed to finish blowing the cobwebs out of it.
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For reference, the HIC valve was not a "misguided" anything. I'm not sure what would lead you to that belief. Its job is to countervail the tendency of high carburetor temperature to create an overly-rich mixture. It does so by admitting extra air above a certain carburetor body temperature. It's an effective and largely trouble-free item on carbs that have it. But yours probably does not.
Pardon my over-zealousness. I had read a few posts from someone who was probably as frustrated as I was about having to repair their HIC and they made a bold statement that I blindly assumed was factual.
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Step "number zero" is to get the three books described in
this thread and start reading.
Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in
this thread.
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted
here for free download.
Your carburetor probably needs a careful rebuild with a kit from
www.daytonaparts.com and a new float, Walker part number 100-14. The float is made out of foam and absorbs fuel and grows heavy over the years. Moreover, doing the
fuel line mod will greatly reduce fuel heating that tends to cause or aggravate gassy smells around the car.
Thanks for all the great links. I'll be buying my books next month as I shot my play budget getting the car running again. After re-investigating the HIC valve port and not feeling any suction there I was poking around again and it seems the leak is around the float bowl. I'm definitely going to buy the rebuild kit and just go over the whole thing.
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But be advised that unless your '70 was built for sale in California, it has an open carburetor bowl vent; there will always be some gassy smell after shutdown. If this is your first experience with a pre-1970 (California) pre-1971 (rest of North America) vehicle, you may not have realized that this what you describe is, to some degree, normal.
Talked to my Dad last night and he said the car was purchased in California and moved to Colorado shortly there after. I'm going to dig through some old paperwork and see if I can't find the original window sticker. I wouldn't be surprised if Grandma kept it all these years.
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Welcome on the board!
Thanks! You've been a great help and are a wealth of information. My ultimate goal is to get this converted to a Hyper Six so I'm sure I'll have more questions once that day comes.