Hey Daniel,
Come to think of it, these Champion Spark Plugs were the ones put into Lorrie might 225 Slant Six back in 1985 when the Engine was rebuilt!
When the Champions were removed and cleaned this afternoon, they weren't fouled, but they were black.
Well, you see? There you go. Learn something NEW every day.
Alright.

Noticed that there were Washers on the Champions that got cleaned today, but the Washer's inside diameter is smaller than the threads on the Spark Plug. Is that the way the NGK#ZFR5Ns are? If so, does one cut them off somhow?

Will call the Auto Parts Stores tomorrow to see who has NGK #ZFR5N.

Thanks for the information and response.

Hope YOU are well.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. E,
Lorrie doesn't have an electronic ignition.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Friday Afternoon Update:

Had to go out this morning to do errands. Got another five gallons of NEW, fresh Gasoline while out and about.

Got home, took a break, had some lunch and then:

Put another half pint of SeaFoam, a half pint of Berrymans ChemDip 12 Fuel Additive, and about 7 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into the five gallon Gas Can, mixed it by shaking it, and then emptied the Gas Can into Lorrie's Gas Tank.

Took Lorrie's Valve Cover off to check the Valves for springiness by hitting the Rocker Arms with a hammer. They were all springy. Reinstalled the Valve Cover. This is the last time that this is going to be done unless something untoward happens.

Turned the Run Switch ON, and noticed that the OLD Stewart Warner 82413, Deluxe Series, 2-5/8" Gas Gauge is not registering the amount of Gasoline in the Tank.

The Tank holds almost twenty gallons.

With what WAS in the Tank, plus the five gallons of NEW fresh Gasoline, the gauge should be registering at least 1/4 Tank. It is not. It is just above 1/16th mark.

Have a brand NEW 82413 Gauge and will be uninstalling the OLD Gauge and installing the NEW Gauge to see if THAT makes a difference.

Just a note here about the Stewart Warner 385CF Sending Unit:

There is a possiblility that it is not installed in the proper position.

There are two positions in which it can possibly be installed.

One has the Float Arm running from just in front of the Aft Baffle on the Port side of the Gas Tank, DIAGONALLY and FORWARD across the Tank so that the Float is near the Starboard Wall of the Tank.

The other position possible is where the Float Arm runs parallel from just in front of the Aft Baffle on the Port side of the Tank, DIRECTLY FORWARD in the Tank so that the Float is near the Port Wall of the Tank.

The factor that determines which position in which it gets mounted is dictated by the Standard Five Bolt Pattern of the Sender's Flange and its relationship to the Standard Five Bolt Pattern around the Mounting Hole on the Tank.

Presently, the Sender Unit is mounted in the former position, and while it fit into that position, there is a possiblility that there is a Baffle that is impeding the Float Arm so that it won't float, but will contact the Baffle locking it in a position that makes the Gauge register only 1/16th of a tank of Gasoline.

There was no way to check to see if that was the case though.

So will change out the Gauge, and if THAT doesn't solve the problem, will once again have to remove the Gas Tank and reposition the Sender Unit 72 degrees clockwise.

So now back the this morning's process:

With the Run Switch in the ON position, the Start Switch was activated and Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six started immediately, and with absolutely no throttle. It instantly went to a smooth idle. What a sweet running Engine it is.

Decided to let it idle till it was warmed up.

The Choke works perfectly!

In a matter of minutes Lorrie's Engine was at 160 degrees.

There were no misses, but there is an intermittant slight shudder in P and N which disappears when the Shift Lever is in R, D, 1, or 2.

Shifted the A727 Torqueflight Transmission into N and then into D with the Brake on. The Engine speed went down, but not appreciably.

Let off the Brake and gave the Engine some throttle and the Transmission went from 1st to 2nd at about 15 mph, doing so smoothly and then to 3rd at about 23 mph. This last shift was somewhat abrupt, a condition that will probably be mitigated once Lorrie is on the ground and actually moving instead of being up on Jack Stands with the Rear Wheels just spinning.

Lorrie was let run like this for about forty minutes.

When the Engine was shut down, the Temperature Gauge registered 170 degrees. The Ammeter was sitting just above the Center Line, the Oil Pressure had at 30 mph to 50 mph been between 50 and 55 psi.

The Tachometer doesn't work, and the Fuel Gauge is iffy.

BUT, Lorrie is definitely alive and well.

The mighty 225 Slant Six is a wonderful Engine. Quite and smooth, VERY responsive, and when the Run Switch is turned OFF, it just QUITS running.

BTW, have ordered a set of NKG ZFR5N Spark Plugs. They will be here next Monday Evening. Am eager to see if THAT makes any appreciable difference. The Engine is running GREAT with the newly regapped Champion 11s.

Anyway, am going to be cleaning out more of the stuff that is in Lorrie's Cargo Bay this afternoon.

The next thing to do is to take the Jack Stands out from under Lorrie's Rear Axle. Air up the Front Tires, move the Craftsman Lawn Mower out of the way, move Ms. American 3.14159 out of the way, start Lorrie up, back her out of the place where she has been sitting for over sixteen years and take her for a short jaunt on Long Drive. That will probably happen tomorrow.

Will keep you all updated.

Hope you all have a nice day.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Saturday Morning Update:

Just got back from taking the OLD Chrysler Sending Unit out and positioning it UNDER Lorrie's Gas Tank with the Bolt Holes in the same position as the NEW Stewart Warner Sending Unit.

There is NO OTHER POSITION in which either Sending Unit could be installed that wouldn't end up having the Fuel Tank Walls interfere with the Float Arm.

There are five Bolt holes around the circumference of the Hole into which the Sending Unit fits. That's a Bolt Hole every 72 degrees.

Rotating the Sending Unit one Bolt Hole (72 degrees) in either direction puts the Float Arm against a Tank Wall.

Thought that maybe the length of the Float Arm on the S&W Sending Unit might be the problem, but it is about 3/8" SHORTER than the Chrysler Unit's Float Arm, which would actually give it MORE clearance.

Have checked the continuity of the Wire where it connects to the Center of the Sending Unit. Even put some Dielectric Silicone in it to help make the Connection. It is fine.

Have checked the connection of the Wire FROM the Sending Unit's Flange which is connected to Ground. It is fine.

Have checked the Fuel Gauge by touching the Wire that is connected to its "S" (for Sender) Terminal to ground which pegs the Needle above "Full". So the Gauge is functional.

This has me stumped.

Since there was nothing more that could be thought of to check about the Fuel Gauge, proceeded to start Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

It started right up, and immediately went to idle. There was an occasional "miss", which lessened (didn't completely disappear) once the Engine was at operating temperature.

Ran the Transmission through the gears. The shift from 1st to 2nd is imperceptable. The shift from 2nd to 3rd is more pronounced.

While at operating temperature, messed with the Idle Mixture Screw on the Bendix Stromberg Carburetor.

Turned it (in 1/4 turn increments) IN till the Engine speed started to decrease which was about 1.5 turns from where it had been. Then turned it back OUT. The Engine speed picked back up and at 1/2 turn from where the Engine Speed started to decrease, it stayed steady no matter how far the Idle Mixture Screw was turned.

Turned it back IN to where the Engine Speed started to decrease, and then backed it off 1/2 turns. That's where it is presently.

Ran the Engine and Transmission through the Gears a number of times, revving it to 55 mph in D, and applying the Brakes bringing the Rear Wheels to a stop.

The Engine idles fine at a stand-still (Brakes ON) in R, D, 1, and 2.

Am going to let Lorrie cool off and then pull the Spark Plugs to see if they are still clean.

Have gotten some more of the "stuff" cleaned out of Lorrie's Cargo Bay.

Everything seems to be fine, except for the Fuel Gauge not working. Just went out to check and the Needle on the Fuel Gauge sits below "E" with the Run Switch OFF, and rises to "E" when the Run Switch is ON. There is at least a quarter of a tank of Gasoline in the Tank.

Am hoping that this Fuel Gauge problem is going to turn out to be something simple.

Anyway, think it time to mow the lawns. The weather is GORGEOUS, and being out in the fresh air will be a welcome change of pace.

Hope you all have a GREAT weekend.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Great to hear JC, glad everything is turning out finally as planned. Ummm I know you wont be detailing Ms. America's goings on here but what are the plans for her? May need to PM me the site that THAT is going to be on... Take care, and dont let the weeds get away, nor the mosquitoes carry you off...

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Hey Mr. OF,
This Fuel Gauge issue has me baffled. Everything is exactly as it should be, except the danged thing won't work.

Other than that, everything seems to be going alright.

Am a bit concerned about one thing though:

When doing the cold Valve Adjustment, the Number One Intake Rocker Arm's Adjusting Screw took two full turns more than any of the other Adjusting Screws to get it to 0.020. And then a bit more to get it to 0.012 hot. Could the Sticking Valve at that location possibly have hurt the Camshaft you think?
There are a few things that NEED doing, and a few things that I just WANT to do.

The things that NEED doing are:
Rebuilding the Steering Linkage.

Getting the Driver's Side Front and Back Door Windows and the Passenger Side Back Door Window Working again.
(this is going to involve rebuilding the Window Escapements.)

Getting and installing NEW Exhaust Pipes. The present Exhaust Pipes have gotten really fragile. The Mufflers are fine, but the Pipes need replacing.

The things that I WANT to do is:
Install the Proper&Correct Autolite 4100 Carburetor that I rebuilt to replace the Holley 4150 that was put on when I rebuilt the Engine in 1989.
(for JPGs of this project, click here:)

http://msamericanpi.bravehost.com/galaxca.htm

And while doing that, putting on the Proper&Correct Heater Hose (which is on hand), and hooking up the completely rebuilt Heater/Defroster Unit.

Also have the ORIGINAL Water Pump that will get rebuilt.

Also have the ORIGINAL Damper that will get rebuilt by the Damper Doctor out in California.

While replacing Water Pump and Damper, would like to remove the Timing Chain Cover, check the Timing Chain, clean, and repaint the Timing Chain Cover.

Also, have a new Headliner on hand here that needs installing.

The Rain Gutters around the Roof need to be redone.

And if the funds can be found somehow, would like to replace all the Window Gaskets.

Also, the Hood Hinges need rebuilding.
Alright. Be on the lookout for it.
Right now both the weeds and the mosquites are rampant!

Am thinking about mowing the lawn this afternoon. But may wait till tomorrow mid morning depending on the temperature out there now.

Lorrie might be cool enough from her morning run to check the Spark Plugs. Might just go do that.

Anyway, thanks for the comment. Will keep you updated.

Have a GREAT weekend.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

JC, You can bend the float arm to any position you want so that it misses anything that is interfering with it.

If you have to drop the tank again it would be a good time to futz with it and make sure it reads "empty" when the float arm is against the stop on the sender. It bugs me when you mentioned that it only went to a little above empty. This could be the float hitting the bottom too soon or the stop on the sender needs to be bent until it reads "Empty" or a little below.

Then bend the arm down in small increments and re-install the sender until you can feel the float hitting the bottom of the tank - guage still reading empty means the arm is also against the stop. Then take it out and bend the arm so the float is about an inch or so higher than the bottom (And still hitting the stop on the sender).

Remember the float doesn't sit right on top of the gas. It sinks about half way. I.E. if you have a 1" diameter float and 1/2" of gas in the tank, the float will be sitting on the bottom of the tank.
From what you've described so far, this test should make the needle on the gauge go to to "Empty". It sounds like the sender doesn't match the gauge. If all is working (otherwise working) it will read "Empty" when it's full and "Full" when the tank is empty.

If the new gauge is supposed to be a match for the new sender it should fix your problems. If the new gauge is an exact match for what you already have we'll just have to wait and see. A Chrysler sender goes to "full" when you ground the sender wire. From what I understood your's worked backwards from that. Your senders ohms are wrong for a Chrysler gauge so I don't think that will be an option.

See if any of that explains the weird happenings with the gauge and remember I'm no expert.

Danny

Hey Danny,
The problem is that the Sending Unit got installed in the ONLY position in which it COULD be installed, but there was no way to check if it would be hitting anything inside the Tank once the Unit was installed. I should have done some "probing" inside the tank to actually ascertain exactly WHERE the Baffles and etc. were located. This is another one of them "live and learn" situations.
When the OLD Gauge was connected to the NEW Sender Unit during the testing of it, the Gauge DID go from "E" (when the Float Arm was against the bottom stop) to "F" (when the Float Arm was against the top stop).
Well, there are a number of factors at play here:

The first one being that the test of the Sender Unit didn't involve the NEW Fuel Gauge. It was done with the OLD Gauge as the NEW Gauge had not arrived. And am convinced that there were internal connection problems with the OLD Gauge. The reason the NEW Gauge was installed was to preclude that factor.

Next, the "body" of the Sender Unit is cast of Nylon, and the stops are not in any way adjustable, though in thinking about this, the Float Arm COULD be bent DOWN just past where it hits the Sender's bottom stop.

Next is that the Float Arm is NOT long enough to hit the bottom of the Tank. This is known because the Flange of the Sender Unit was put next to the Tank with the under side of the Flange even with the top of the Tank. The Float Arm at its lowest point (against the bottom stop) put the under-side of the Float (which is plastic foam) about 3/4" from the bottom of the Tank.
That's pretty much the way it IS right now.
YES. But remember, the Float Arm is NOT long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, though it COULD probably be bent to do so.
No. The Gauge sees a reading of 244 ohms as Empty, and 33 ohms as Full. Am assuming that when the Sender Wire is touched to ground that the resistance goes to LESS than 33 ohms. This would make the Gauge read ABOVE Full.
The Sender Unit is the one that goes with the Gauge according to Stewart Warner.
No. The Sender and Gauge are compatible and should read Empty when Empty, and Full when Full.
That's what was hoped for. Alas, it didn't. But it isn't due to incompatibility of the equipment. There is something else at work here.
It is, and you are right. This is going to take removing the Tank, and messing with the equipment to sor it all out.
The Chrysler Sender that is here is non-functional and has NEVER been functional during this whole exercise. BUT, when the Sender Wire that WAS hooked to the Chrysler Sending Unit is grounded, it pegs the S&W Gauge above Full.
Lorrie doesn't have a Chrysler Gauge. She has a S&W Gauge, and a compatible S&W Sending Unit.
What HAS to happen is for Lorrie's Gas Tank to once again be removed, and a test setup made involving a 12 Volts Source.

The Tank needs to be "probed" to ascertain the internal configuration of the Baffles.

The Float Arm on the Sending Unit needs to be adjusted to fit the internal Baffle configuration.

AND there is ONE MORE consideration that has not been mentioned or explored. Permit me to explain:

The non functioning (this was ascertained by testing it with a MultiTester) Chrysler Sending Unit that was removed from the Gas Tank, it had a threaded Copper Rod sticking up out of the center of the Unit and to this Copper Rod was attached a Fitting that just slipped over the Copper Rod. The inside of this fitting was cleaned with a small roll of sandpaper so it was BRIGHT Copper.

When the NEW S&W Sending Unit arrived, it did NOT have a Copper Rod sticking out from the Center of the Unit. Instead it had a Threaded Hole, in which was threaded a Copper Bolt and Washer.

In order to make the Sending Unit able to receive the Fitting on the end of the Sender Wire, that Copper Bolt was removed, and a length of STEEL Threaded Rod was first coated with Dielectric Silicone, and installed in the Threaded Hole formerly occupied by the Copper Bolt.

After the Tank was installed, the Fitting on the end of the Sender wire had a dab of Dielectric Silicone put into it, and it was connected to the Steel Threaded Rod.

THAT whole process MAY have some bearing on the matter under discussion. It could be that the change in material in the circuit (from Copper to Steel) has affected the Resistance Values, but I don't know THAT to be a fact.

Anyway, there is still much to do, and removing Lorrie's Gas Tank yet once again is one of them.

The NKG ZFR5N Spark Plugs are arriving today.

Am considering installing a Pertronix Ignition System as JC Whitney has a clearance on them for $70.49.

Would also acquire the 40,000 Volt Ignition Coil that goes with the Pertronix Ignition System.

Would also get NEW Spark Plug Leads to complete the refurbishment of entire Ignition System.

All that has to happen for this to become reality is to figure out how to finance it.

Will keep you updated as events occur.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor