Hey Reed,
YES! Was thinking of asking someone to measure the distances between the Degree Lines for me. And here YOU have already done it. THANKS!
That can EASILY be duplicated on Lorrie's NEW Timing Tab. Will get that done probably by Monday. Am going to Paint the NEW Timing Tab and then cut Degree Marks in it with the RotoTool and a Cutting Wheel.

Thanks again for the JPGs.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Friday Morning Update:

Have to get out and about this morning. Will be getting a 3/8" Tap, and some long 3/8" Bolts at the Hardware Store.

Am going to get Lorrie's NEW Timing Tab removed, cleaned, painted and marked with 1/8" = 2 Degrees. Will have JPGs of the finished product.

Will then make the Piston Stop Tool out of one of Lorrie's Champion Spark Plugs. Will have JPGs of the finished product.

Will then use the Piston Stop Tool to determine Lorrie's TDC, and cut the mark into Lorrie's Damper.

If that all goes well, need to adjust the Brakes all around, and then put Lorrie on the ground.

Move Ms. American out of the way, and back Lorrie out of the Driveway where she has been for the past sixteen+ years.

Will then take her for a test drive.

Will let you all know how it goes.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Good luck!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey Reed,
Thanks...

Have just returned from being out and about.

Got the 3/8" Coarse Thread Tap, and a 6" Coarse Thread Bolt. Also got the Handle that holds the Tap. Am looking forward to making this wondrous Piston Stop Tool.

Was thinking that I'd make up a BUNCH of them out of Ms. American's and Lorrie's OLD Spark Plugs and send them to the people who have been watching the Ms. American and Lorrie Van Haul Threads, as gifts.

They might even become a VERY useful collector's item!

It is already too hot to be out working on Lorrie. Fortunately, she doesn't need anything done to her at this point. So the adjusting of Lorrie's Brakes and the Test drive can wait till tomorrow.

The Piston Stop Tool can be done indoors.

It will only take a few minutes to get the NEW Timing Tab off of the front of Lorrie's Engine so that it could be cleaned, painted and the degrees marked.

Anyway, time marches on... Have a GREAT Memorial Day Week end.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Have been told the above by a number of people on a number of forums.

Has anyone ACTUALLY done this?

Saturday Morning Update:

Went out this morning to make a Piston Stop Tool out of one of Lorrie's OLD Champion 11 Spark Plugs.

Cut the Adjustable Tip off with a Cutting Disk in the Craftsman RotoTool.

Used a Ball Peen Hammer to break the Porcelain off the top of the Plug exposing the Electrode.

Pulled the Electrode out of the center of the Plug with Vise Grips and a LONG 13/16" Socket used to pry the Plug back and forth.

In the process of doing this, the Electrode broke somewhere inside the Porcelain that is in the Body of the Spark Plug.

Broke the Ceramic Tip and tried to remove the Electrode sticking out of the Threaded End of the Plug.

It broke off even with the Threads.

Tried to drill down through the Porcelain, but it is harder than a Drill Bit.

So what there is left is a Spark Plug Body with a Porcelain Plug in it.

Am just checking in here to see if this is one of them "trick" things that everyone has heard about, but no one has ever REALLY done.

It's harder than it looks.

And besides, the poor little old Spark Plug has been savaged all to no avail. Am feeling a little guilty about having done that.

Anyway, am going to kind of hold off on continuing this caper in hopes that someone can enlighten me on HOW to get the Porcelain Plug out of the Body of the Spark Plug without messing everything up and possibly hurting myself in the process.

If anyone here as ACTUALLY done this, would appreciate some pointers.

TIA

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

As was said before "bust it out with a hammer and a punch". This one is for peanut plug head.




Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hey Richard,
When I was a kid growing up in Ontario, California, lived across the highway from the Ontario International Airport.

My friends and I would ride our bikes there and hang around the civilian side of the place.

We became friends with some of the personnel there.

They would have us run errands for them.

Like one guy would tell us he needed a bottle of Prop Wash from some guy in the hanger on the far east end of the row of hangers. We'd go there and ask for the bottle of Prop Wash, and the guy there would tell us that a guy at the far west end of the row of hangers had it. So we'd pedal down there, only to find that the bottle was at the Control Tower.

We never DID find the bottle of Prop Wash, or the Metric Crescent Wrench, or the Left Handed Flop-Doodle.

After this morning's debacle, was beginning to think that making a Piston Stop Tool out of a Spark Plug was like the bottle of Prop Wash. That's why I asked if ANYONE had ACTUALLY made one.

Am thinking that it is more trouble than it is worth.

Besides, got a Vermont American Brand Tap for $5.99 + tax, and an Irwin Hanson T-Handle Tap Wrench for $11.89 + tax. Since am not going to end up making a Piston Stop Tool, will return them (since they are unopened) and get the $17.88 + tax removed from this month's ticket.

Hope this finds YOU having a GREAT Memorial Day Weekend.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Richard,
Have come up with an idea that just might work to find Lorrie's TDC without removing the Radiator, or having to use a Piston Stop Tool.

Lorrie's Fan Belt can be removed through the Radiator Cap Access Hatch.

It is the Fan Belt that is obstructing the view of the ORIGINAL Timing Tab.

Am going to remove the Fan Belt tomorrow morning, and see if the ORIGINAL Timing Tab and the Mark on the Damper will be able to be lined up.

If they can, then will just set the ORIGINAL Damper Timing Mark precisely even with the ORIGINAL Timing Tab TDC Mark, and proceed to put the NEW Timing Mark on the Damper.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

That will work so long as you trust that the outer ring on the damper hasn't slipped. I am anal enough so that I would want the peace of mind of spending the $9 plus shipping to get the piston stop tool and being absolutely positive that the TDC mark was TRUE TDC.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey Reed,
Don't know that it has, but also don't know that it hasn't.


You make a good point.

Went out this afternoon to check and see if indeed just removing the Fan Belt would make seeing the ORIGINAL Timing Tab and Original Timing mark on the Damper possible.

It Doesn't!

What is in the way is the Fan Pulley. One can look at the ORIGINAL Timing Tab (which has been painted black when the front of the Engine got painted) by looking down behind the Fan Pulley. But the Fan Pulley obscures seeing the Damper's edge where the ORIGINAL Timing Mark is located.

OR one can look past the front of the Fan Pulley and see the Damper's edge where the ORIGNAL Timing Mark is located, but in that position, the Fan Pulley blocks being able to see the ORIGINAL Timing Tab.

Was going to remove the Radiator tomorrow and clean the paint off of the ORIGINAL Timing Tab and then turn the Engine to get the ORIGINAL Timing Mark on the Damper to match the TDC point on the ORIGINAL Timing Tab. But after reading YOUR thoughts on this, am tending to agree with you.

Although IF Lorrie's Outer Damper Ring has slipped, it won't be long before she will be needing a new one.

Life seems to be full of hard decisions!

Anyway, everything will work out eventually.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Monday Afternoon Update:

Decided that the Piston Stop Tool needed making.

Had tried to do it yesterday, to no avail. But thought about it last night, and figured out how to get the Porcelain out of the Spark Plug Body.

Everyone was telling me that it took a hammer and a punch, but it doesn't. In fact, it doesn't take any force at all.

What was done was to use the Craftsman RotoTool and a Cutting Wheel to cut off the part of the Spark Plug Body that is just above the hex. THAT is what holds the Porcelain in place. Once it is cut off, all it takes is putting the Plug Body into a 13/16" Spark Plug Socket, and with a pair of Vise Grips, pry on the Porcelain part, and it comes right out of the body.

Then a 5/16" Drill is run through the Plug Body, followed by a 3/8" Tap to thread the inside of the hole.

Then a 3/8" Bolt is put into the threads, and the end of the Bolt is rounded off using the Bench Grinder. and here is how it comes out looking:





It has gotten too hot out to do any more work outside, but tomorrow morning, will be going out and removing Lorrie's Radiator. Will then clean off the ORIGINAL Timing Tab and paint it White with Black Marks. \

Will then set the ORIGINAL Mark on the Damper to match the TDC line on the ORIGINAL Timing Tab.

Will then Install the Piston Stop Tool to confirm that indeed the Piston IS at TDC.

The whole purpose for this is to confirm that the outer ring on the Damper has not slipped.

Once that is confirmed, then the NEW Timing Tab will be installed on Lorrie's Oil Pan Bolt, and the Damper marked to indicate TDC.

Once all that is done, will be able to precisely time Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine from under the Front End.

The Test Drive will take place later this week.

Will let you know how it all goes.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

And you didn't have to go for "prop wash"


Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hey Richard,
Or a pair of metric Vise Grips.

The Manual that is here says that to properly time Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine, that one should disconnect the Vacuum Tube from the Distributor, and plug it with a Golf Tee, a small Bolt, or Screw. Then set the Number One Spark Plug to fire when the Number One Piston is at TDC.

QUESTION: Is there EVER an occasion that the Spark Plugs would be set to fire AFTER the Pistons PASS TDC?

The reason that this is being asked is: If there is NOT an occasion to set the timing for the Spark Plugs to fire AFTER passing TDC, then there is no need to make any Marks AFTER TDC on the NEW Timing Tab.

Any comments would be appreciated.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Proper timing will be based on the camshaft used, the emissions package used, and how the distributor is set up. Depending on the year and application, slant sixes had factory timing specs of 16 BTDC to 5 ATDC. The majority of slant sixes had factory specified timing settings in the BTDC range.

Decades of collective experience and experimentation has revealed that the slant six "likes" about 12 degrees initial advance and 32 degrees total advance all in by 3000 RPM. How you configure the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms in the distributor will determine when and how fast the timing advance comes in.

Timing specified at TDC suggests that your distributor likely has an aggressive vacuum advance pod that supplies a large amount of advance at low vacuum levels.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Set it to 5° before TDC.
No.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.