The idler arm attachment point to K member became egged out due to previous owner not torqueing it properly. I drove the car for three summers with this lose connection before discovering the problem. This the 67 only tapered tie rod like connection, not the common bolt & rubber bushing connection.

Last summer I reamed the tapered hole out, and made a sheet metal bushing to bring the hole back to its correct size. I was unsuccessful and making a good repair, so I reamed some more used a thicker bushing, and now after driving it several thousand miles it is still sloppy. The problem is I can’t hand hold the ream & drill motor stable enough with the car on jack stands laying on my back.

Has anyone made a successful repair without replacing the K Member with a different year, or cutting the 67 tab off, and welding on a bolt type tab?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I have done this repair both ways...
Swapping K-frames and by welding-on the later I. Arm bracket.
As you would guess... the K swap is the better way to go and it is really pretty simple (and about the same amount of time) if you "leave stuff hanging".

As for the bracket swap, you need a good grinder, wizzer wheels & arc welder. You also need a way to get the vehicle high enough to get enough access to weld around the bracket. Even on a rack, there is an area on the top that can not be accessed, until the engine comes-out.

If you want to give that approach a try, send me a PM... I have the later brackets (already "loose") and spare idler arms.
DD

After waiting for USPO to get a check out to Doc on the West Coast and the parts delivered to Maine, additional waiting for my mechanic to look at the repair job and turn it down, and waiting another week to get car onto welder’s shop lift, the conversion has been completed.

In Maine there are welding shops all over that deal with automotive rust problems. The fellow that worked on my car fits that ilk. He amputated the dreadfully designed ‘67 one year only idler arm mount appendage, and grafted on the part Doc provided in about an hour.

Amputated 67 mount:


Conventional mount in place:


A little cleaning & paint is all that is needed to finish the job.

The car The front end with its recently installed new lower ball joints, and now a solid idler arm attachment has tightened it up nicely, and now needs a front end alignment, as the toe setting has most likely been tweaked a bit due to the recent parts replacement.

Now I find that a new steering shaft coupler is in order, as the old one has some play in it. After Steer & Gear rebuild my power steering gear as a firm feel box it had always seemed that there was too much play in the steering wheel. I had removed the coupler, examined it for worn bits, replaced the grease seal, and pronounced it fit for use. I must have missed something as it is contributing about two inches of L to Rt. wheel movement before engaging the steering gear.

Thanks Doc for taking the time to salvage the part, and offer to get it to me in a timely fashion.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I should have done this mod to my '67 Valiant, but I had planned on a K-member swap. The Valiant only had 45k miles on the chassis so the steering box, coupler and steering linkage were all quite good. The problem was that you had to dial in extra steering at corner entry and then unwind the wheel as the car turned in toward the apex. It was like there was a big spring in the system. The poor steering and the 3-speed manual just killed the enjoyment of the car for me.

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Joshua

No problem, glad to help.
This is one of those "just got to do it" kind of things and it looks like you found the right mechanic / welder for the job.

One of these days I want to try this conversion on a 60-66 K-frame / vehicle. Those also have the "single post" idler arm set-up so it could help them a bit.
DD

If you get the "square" (not quite!) metal shoes 90° off from their correct orientation, you'll have extra free play in the wheel.

If you need a new coupler you can either get an original type or, maybe/probably/almost certainly better, one of these. Steering box input shaft is 5/8" splined, steering column shaft is "double D" abbreviated "DD", but I don't recall the size; you'll have to measure. You'll also have to press/cut out the crosspin presently in place at the end of the steering shaft to use this new coupler.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hummmm…. I seem to recall lining up wear marks inside of coupler, but could be wrong on that point. A good tid-bit to know for future projucts.
Interesting adaptation that there device.

Cross pin easily presses out with a socket and bench vice. I did not locate the required device, but did notice that some are constructed with vibration dampening capabilities. I suspect all the spring loaded foot stuff Chrysler filled their coupler with was to dampen down feedback so as not to feel every little movement.

I do know that my steering shaft and steering gear spline are not perfectly aligned, or rather don't quite share the same axis. This may or may not have contributed to additional slop accumulating over time.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yesterday the Dart got its inspection sticker, a much need front end alignment, and is over the curb burning gas once again.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Did you figure out the free play issue?

ESP47:
Yup. As Dan thought, the shoes were installed 90 degrees out. I’m sure that I had replaced them as I found them on disassembly when rebuilding steering gear. There have been several items incorrectly assembled on this car, so I'm not surprised at my misstep.

1967 Dart FSM does not address the internal guts of these couplers. Within the last week someone on FABO posted an illustration showing the placement of internals of these contraptions.

Look here at 3ed post down.

The car now feels nice and tight with almost no play in the steering wheel after replacing coupler with new parts. Hindsight after pulling it today told me I should have just correctly reassembled the existing parts, but other more historical hindsight form working on this car dictated to just order the parts, and not have car disassembled waiting a week for the inevitable need for new parts. Oh well screwed the pooch on this one, LOL, but the job was completed in a few hours including messing with my degenerated old tachometer.

Now if someone has any method to stop the incessant squeaking tubular upper control arm’s urethane bushings that I have been listening to for three years, I would be a happy camper.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Glad I was able to help -- even though I'm a big ol' jerkface knowitall doodoohead.
Probably there isn't a way to do it, but if anything stands a chance of making the squeak go away, it's probably Tungsten Disulphide spray.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Rubber bushings?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Big meany...

»ducking«

(Oh, wait…I'm not the one who needs to duck!)

(Quack!)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I know, riiiiiiiiiiiiight?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.