I just bought a carburetor rebuild kit. I've never done this before. It's for a carter bbd. Any words of encouragement would be appreciated. Or a web site with step-by-step instructions.

The kit should have come with detailed instructions. I rebuilt my first and onlu carb last december(a BBD) with great success. Just take every thing apart slowly and carefully so you can match up the exact gaskets you will need. there are several similar ones to choose from so if the ones you remove are mostly intact it is much easier to do.
Good luck
Phil

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When you take it appart, place it on a clean surface in the same order it came out. So to put it back together, you just go step by step backwards.

There are plenty of illustrations in the service manual.

I like the idea of laying it out in the order I dismantle it. I guess what worries me most is adjusting it after I put it back together. I know there are instructions for that, too, but the terminology throws me. Valves, vacuums, chokes, etc. I want to learn so badly.

P.S.F. ,when rebuilding any carb for the first time start by cleaning the assembled unit on the outside with a can of carb cleaner and rag, set up a clean work surface where stuff can't roll away. Then do just like the other guys said step by step lay the parts out in order. Watch out for the little things, allot of carbs have checkballs little steel balls that need to be inserted in passages before reassembly. Be carefull removing "C" rings and clips that can go "ping" and dissapere into the dark corners of a garage, and before setting a part aside, identify it on the expolded diagram of the carb supplyed with the kit. Blow through every orfice you can find with the little tube extention that comes with the spray can of carb cleaner wear goggles cause you may not know where the spray will come out then spray back the opposite way. Remove all gasket residue and finally lay a good steel straight edge accross cast parts that might have been bent from over tightening. A file can be used for instance to flaten out some distortions so the gasget will be able to do it's job. Some older carbs may have noticeable play/wear where the shaft goes through the carb body this is a source of vacume leak and a carb with less wear may be needed Read ANY book you can find on ANY carberator, they all work very simaler in concept. This will give you the confidence to do what you need to do. Sorry I can't give you A "carb" but I can help show you how to "carb". So you will never again lack carberation Bruce Johnson

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78b4ramSnortbed/6

The last time I rebuilt a carb, I always like to soak the carb body in the 1 gallon Mac's (napa brand, $25ish) carb cleaner. That stuff works quite well and the 1 gallon size is perfect for carbs. Its not necessary, but works well to clean out the passages you may not be able to reach with spray. Just remember to remove any rubber or plastic parts or else they will either disolve or swell up.

I re-built my first carb last year, a Holly 1945, the only problem I had was getting all the adjustments right after putting it back together. In my case this just took some time and tinkering. Not having much experience with carbs, it just took me a while to understand what each adjustment did.

When you go to adjusting, just be sure to understand what each one is for that way when you put the carb on the car if it is doing something strange you may be able to determine better what needs more adjustment.

But like several have said a good re-build starts with making sure the carb is clean and soaking it for a few days or at least cleaning passages with carb cleaner is a pre-requisite.

Good Luck!

I need one of these to practice on.

thanks. I'm beginning to feel the confidence.

PSF.....I recommend that you allow plenty of time for this exercise. Don't walk away in the middle of it, because, (if you're like me), you'll forget just how those parts go back together before you get back to it.

Just my .02, but I still recommend that once you start, see it through to the end.

Roger

Hi everyone... here's a little somethink that has worked for me for years... you know how little carb parts like clips and those darn check balls are always trying to get off your work bench during a carb rebuild? Well, i'm a drummer, and a long time ago I started using an old 20- inch diameter bass drum head as my "work tray'. Drum heads since at least the Sixties, have been made of a really tough Mylar-type plastic film. No carb cleaner or carb dip I've ever seen hurts this plastic.(though the one I'm using is a thick one). Best of all, there's a raised edge around the head's edge with an aluminum rim clamped to it. So I have a lightweight work tray that keeps parts all contained, and I haven't seen a chemical or gasoline that fazes it... When I'm done I just spray with carb cleaner and wipe it off! It of course needs to be lying on some type of table or bench for support, cause it does flex some. For all you non-drummers (though I've noticed that most EVERYONE wants to play mine when they are set up!!) drums commonly come in 12 thru 24 inch diameters. And drum heads come in different weights or thicknesses of the plastic film. The "Batter" side on most bass drums in a drum set (the side the drummer's foot pedal beater hits) is usually the heaviest weight plastic. So if you want to try my "carb rebuilding tray idea", Go ask a drummer or try a music store if they have any worn or used/unwanted bass drum heads. If you Know a drummer, and you can turn a wrench, you might offer to help them with their car in trade for an old bass drum batter head. Most (not all) musicians REALLY need help with their vehicles... hope this helps!! thanks

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Dare to be Different...

Hey Pantseatflyer,

Believe it or not I saw one of those models on ebay not more than a week or so ago. Went back to try and find it and couldn't but there was one on there, still in the box.

Thought that was cool

what about the floats? should those be replaced during a rebuild? What do the floats do?

The floats regulate the amount of gas that is in the bowl. the floats should not have to be replaced unless they are damaged or have holes in them, if they get gas inside them they will not "float".

You can take them out and inspect them for any pin holes but if they check out use them. Your kit will not come with floats that is a seperate item.

The re-bild kit should show you how to adjust the floats for your carb. On mine you have to flip the carb upside down and make sure they are flush with the top of the bowl. JUST BE CAREFULL HERE. I kept forgetting about the check ball and everytime I turned the carb upside down out it fell.

JB

thanks for the info. Now here's a real novice's question for you: what is the job of the carburetor? I know that it mixes fuel with air, but what happens after that? Doesn't the fuel get sent to the plugs? What controls how much fuel and how evenly it gets distributed to the six plugs? Is it sprayed in like fuel injections?