I'm slowly completing my punch list for my newly acquired Slant Six. Carb, timing, water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, and now today I finally got to the valves. I thought I was going to damage things tightening and loosening that rocker arm nut while the engine was running. Plus, it took some time to get the feel for the gap. When I started, the valve train was noisy/clackety. When I finished, she was purring like a kitten!! Sure gives you a nice feeling of satisfaction to get a job like that done. Thanks to SS Dan for guiding me through the process. I'm sure you (and the other veterans) must get tired of answering the SAME questions from new owners like me. I'm glad you still do though. The slant is cool! I wouldn't take a V8 now if you gave it to me! I guess I'm fully converted.

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Chinook carrying Gama goat, circa 1983.

now check it cold, not running and add .001 or .002 ...

Um, no, that's not part of the process; it would amount to undoing the careful valve adjustment just completed.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It should, however, be extremely close with an OEM cam.

I think that's the point he was trying to make. In most cases, setting cold at .001 or .002 loose will give good results. Setting hot and running is ideal, but beats the crud out of old hands. The skin on my hands is much thinner than it was 20 years ago. I still check hot, but normally don't have much reason to adjust after a .002" loose set.

At .526" lift, the adjuster will tear the crud out of me on the end of a wrench. Bleeding is not fun. With the roller rockers, I can't adjust when the engine is running. Different animal, but still, chasing that wrench can be a real pain, and will tear the heck out of the aluminum rocker.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That's what flex-head socket wrenches are for!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Haven't been able to get that to work on my junk.

Perhaps on stock lift that would work. Big lift shakes them apart.

Don't be afraid of a cold lash +.001" on oem camshafts. It will get you in the ball park.

On the big lift cams, I cold lash at +.002"

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I can appreciate the need for a ballpark cold adjustment when starting from scratch or in situations where a hot/running adjustment is not practicable.

I cannot appreciate adjusting the valves cold after a correct hot adjustment has already been done.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I don't believe that would be practical either. It's a good place to start for many, and with practice and knowing the specifics of the cam profile/lash ramps one is working specifically with, a cold adjust can be very accurate.

It's a good thing to check. It can get you in the ballpark, or even to finish lash without beating yourself to death.


0.026" cold will get me pretty close to my .024" best operating lash. The cam grinder called for .020", but the idle quality is bad. As good as an 8" HG idle gets.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

CJ:
[quote]Setting hot and running is ideal, but beats the crud out of old hands. The skin on my hands is much thinner than it was 20 years ago.[/quote]


As a junior member of the “Thin Skin Societyâ€￾ , recently I discovered an additional layer of thin cow skin in the form of tight gloves help greatly during hot lash adjustment. No more hot metal contacting hands causing pull back only to contact additional hot metal during the retreat, nicked knuckles, and beat up wrench hand. All that fresh hot oil keeps the leather nice and supple between lashings.

Perhaps that last statement could be reworded a little…

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

My personal preferance for lash adjustments tools is a 3/8" six point socket, a (3/8" drive) breaker bar handle, & a good (snap-on) 12" wobbler extension. This setup lets my adjusting hand "float" with not much movement while the engine idles. (using a WRENCH on a running engine? ugh! I don't hate my hands enough to do that).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

The best valve last adjustment tool I ever found was a 6-8 inch long combination offset wrench. The wrench had 3/8 on one side and 7/16 on the other. The box ends of the wrench were offset about an inch from the handle of the tool- the perfect height to slip over the end of the rocker arm with the wrench pointed towards to driver's side of the vehicle. Unfortunately I had a 12 point version and the teeth on the box end of the wrench wore out so I can't use it anymore. When it worked it worked beautifully. I would slide the box end over the adjuster nut and grab the handle loosely in one hand while i held the feeler gauge in the other. THe wrench handle would bounce around harmlessly in my open palm while I applied pressure in whatever direction I needed.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.