Anyone running the Comp 264s cam and if so, how do you like it? What else has been done to your engine to take advantage of this cam? I'm asking because I have occasionally seen them available at good prices but mainly because they're in a duration (advanced) range that I would like.

Thanks,

- EM

I used one and it was fine, but not what I would call inspired. I got better performance with a ported big-valve head, compression, induction and exhaust improvements paired with a stock cam than by changing the cam and keeping the head near stock. If cost is a concern, I know it always is, you can have your cam or another core reground and get something better than the Comp 264S.

Oregon Cam Grinding has quite a lot to offer and does good work at fair prices.

What's your engine's current build and what are your goals and intended usage?

_________________
Joshua

I would stay away from comp cams. Their cams have a very bad reputation for eating oil pump drive gears due to the mediocre machining quality.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I am biased against Comp cams. I have never bought one, and don't foresee buying one. But in addition to the poor reputation for oil pump drive worm problems, there is also their offering of generic (i.e., Chevrolet) lobes as "upgrades" for Mopar engines. This throws away the advantage of the larger tappet diameter on Mopar engines for the sake of laziness on Comp's part. That, and I've seen too many installations of their "upgrade" 252 cam that just didn't run well no matter what the owner did with them. None for me, thanks, I'm driving.

Why not look at one of the cams Doc (Doug Dutra) has developed? RV10-RDP or RV15-RDP? See this (long) thread. I have yet to see anything but enthusiastic reactions from those who've bought these cams.

As for detailed builds: Start here and here. Why don't you see horsepower numbers? Because they're mostly horsepuckey numbers that don't really mean anything and are mostly useful only for fuelling pissing contests on the internet. It is an error to focus with tunnel vision on horsepower numbers. It leads to large amounts of money wasted on ill-advised parts and combinations, with sad results. It's happened right here on this board; we have one member who insisted on building his engine to a horsepower number he pulled out of the air. Despite the best efforts of many to get him steered in a productive direction, he was bound and determined to read a bunch of different builds and pick the pieces and specs he liked best from each build. He was sure he was going to have a 225 that put out the same horsepower as a 440. He never attained it, and his engine never ran well.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yep.....the SL6 is a torque monger.....not much on horsepower do to flow restriction in the head. Try to use one of Doc's cams as they retain good vacuum readings and increase torque. If you keep the rpms down these motors can pull very high gear ratio's (2.76, 2.94) with ease and have good driveablity, (spunk/fun to drive) and get great mileage.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I don't know if this has been brought up,but Egge machine in Santa Fe Springs ca has a cam.From what I remember its 252 base duration-210 @ .50 with .437 of lift. LSA 105 intake and 112 exhaust.From what I remember.

_________________
I may be slow,but I"m ahead of you.

The 264 is an ok middle of the road cam, but nothing too spectacular...you can get the same amount of driving done with a bit more torque using the 252 cam...Oregon Cam Grinding or Doc's recipes
are the better choices. I'd be skeptical of a low duration cam with a short lobe separation since that allows a fair amount of overlap that the cam won't be able to build up quickly.

Depending on target compression, tranny and rear gearing/tire size those will determine where you want to go...using a DCR calculator will give the best idea of how your selection will affect required gas and timing needed.

If you are close to Salem, we should schedule a visit and answer some questions along with some hands on.



-D.Idiot

My only problem is I have a late model with hydraulic lifters only competition offers anything so I guess its staying stock at 252 .378 center lines of 108/102.Considering it ran pretty good worn out with a 2.97 gear ,833 overdrive,29.5" tires ,stock 74 electronic distributor tied to gm hei and a 318 bbd 2bbl.Think it uses more oil then gas and pulls from low rpm even with a 10" flywheel.Just doesn't like head winds with that truck front end at high speeds.And machine parts in St Charles Il does all of the rebuilding for Chicago Power folk lifts that are running the slant 6.Mines heading in that direction for the machine work.

_________________
I may be slow,but I"m ahead of you.

OCG can regrind that bumpstick with mech lifter patterns, either buy some new solid lifters, or find a set to have OCG regrind for you (I'm sure some member has a bucket full of them...)

You'll need pushrods and a set of mech rocker arms and shaft and it's a done swap.

(and cheaper than what comp cams charges for just the cam...AND the cam won't eat your pump gear...).

-D.Idiot

i keep reading that the cam will eat the pump gear is there anything i can do to keep this from happening?

_________________
1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Some of their (Comp) cams have the pump/distributer gear not finish machined, only rough hobbed. These are obvious to the eye, and should be returned if your time allows. If not, they can be carefully smoothed to a finish by hand or using a moto-tool with a fiberglass wheel, again carefully.

I've done this on two of'em now (one mine, and one someone else's), as I'm a bit of a defiant sort.
Both are running nicely well into their third year, with no signs of damage to either the iron pump gears or the nylon distributer gears.

Can't say as I'd intentionally buy one though.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link