My one barrel Holley is giving me trouble. I guess after 15 years of not being used and never started, it needs replaced.
It keeps falling on its face and stalling.
Long as I keep my foot on the gas it is okay, but sputters though. I sprayed some carb cleaner around it, and the idle picks up fast when I spray around that plunger on the top, and also the throttle shaft.
I am thinking it is not rebuildable?
The gas tank, fuel line front to back, fuel pump were all replaced due to sitting so long.
I had it running, but never very well. Not it got worse quick. It won't idle on its own, and sputters. Then eventually dies.

1971 Valiant 225 1barrel

Would I have a 1920 or a 1945? I looked on Advance for a rebuilt carb, and it says it is the replacement for a 1920?
Also I see Rock Auto has them cheaper than advance.

The numbers I found on the carb are as follows:
1331/4656
12R-4285b

It may or may not need replaced, but the first thing to try is a rebuild. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. I like the carb kits from www.daytonaproducts.com ; they have a better designed inlet needle and seat.
Won't know til you try.
1920.
Very bad idea. "Rebuilt" carbs you can buy today are junk.
R4656A -- original carb for a 1971 225/automatic car. Keep it, even if you wind up needing to buy a different carb.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

We got a Rebuild kit from
http://daytonaparts.com/

For my dad's 1936 Dodge D2 Sedan.. It has an old (original) carter 1bbl on it.. and you just cant go to your corner parts store for a carb kit for a 1936..anything.


We used the car extensively this summer with modern gas and have no issues. Even used it in the wedding and it had no troubles.


I would use a daytona rebuild kit again.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Okay, I will check out that site. I want to make sure my carb is my issue.
I may mess with it again tomorrow.
I noticed that when I was checking my timing, it is "jumping" around when I am trying to check it.
I do have the hose disconnected while checking, and the carb port plugged. When I plug the hose from the distributor back onto the carb, after I checked the timing. My Idle jumps up really high quick. Kind of like it might be advancing without hitting the gas?
It didn't do this before, just started all of a sudden. It always had a slight hesitation. But never stalled, and ran quite well. I think I am missing something after thinking it over.

Okay, it is my carb more than likely. I looked down the throat of it, and at idle, it is "spitting fuel", and causing a sputtering effect at idle. Then of course a hesitation. Ugh!!
I tried spraying starting fluid again near the arm on top, "accelerator pump"? And the idle jumps up and smooths out when I do that. I guess its my carb regardless if I want it to be or not...LOL

[quote]I noticed that when I was checking my timing, it is "jumping" around when I am trying to check it.[/quote]


This could be caused by sticky governor weighs not pulling back to rest smoothly as engine reaches timing advance threshold rpm. If timing advances the idle speed will increase regardless of throttle position.




[quote]I do have the hose disconnected while checking, and the carb port plugged. When I plug the hose from the distributor back onto the carb, after I checked the timing. My Idle jumps up really high quick. Kind of like it might be advancing without hitting the gas?[/quote]

This looks to be a vacuum leak downstream from carburetor that colud be from vacuum line, or a perforated diaphragm in vacuum advance pod. Excess air leaning out mixture from vacuum leak will cause rpm to increase.

To check condition of tubing and vacuum advance, pull its vacuum line from carburetor, suck on tube to retract diaphragm, seal end of tube, and see if it holds a vacuum; if not holding, one or both of the two are cracked needing replacement.

A second theory is the vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum which is wrong tap for advance pod. Vacuum advance on slant six has to be connected to “ported vacuumâ€￾ a tap located above throttle plates (higher up from base of carb that does not see manifold vacuum until throttle plate is opened a little). With vacuum advance seeing vacuum at idle with throttle plate closed, it will advance timing past its preset base which as before will increase rpm. Stock slants need to have a narrow band of a hundred rpm or so just above in park idle (750 to 800) that gets no vacuum advance input until car is in gear and moving.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The Holley 1920 is about as simple a carb as you will find. You can rebuild it yourself.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Any slightest hint of ignition trouble would be an excellent excuse (not that one is needed) to convert to electronic ignition. See the HEI upgrade article.
That's because vacuum is reaching the hose when it should not be. This is either because the hose is not connected to the correct port, or because the basic timing is very retarded and the idle speed adjustment screw has been turned far in (opening the throttle plate) to compensate, which is sending vacuum to the correct port at engine idle.
It's not a vacuum leak. The symptoms point clearly to vacuum advance at idle when there should be none (which also tells us there's nothing wrong with the vacuum advance hose or diaphragm; they're both working fine).
Not from normal idle RPM to 1000 RPM through the spark advance port, it doesn't.
If you've done a Solex, you can do a Holley.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok. My carb got rebuilt and is back on. Needs adjusted, running a bit lean. But I did notice. I only have one port to plug my vac advance onto. Seems to have constant vac? There are no other ports?