That is the same governor I am running with the springs I mentioned earlier, and it works great! for mileage and overall engine spunk. The VC208 advance is 11R. Again, the same one I am running. At least the 15L has adjustable spring posts. Of the two springs in it, the one that is shorter and more tightly wound might work ok with the correct stiff long looped secondary spring. You could take that spring and the heavy long looped spring from the other distributor and try that......

Your choice. If you can find a super heavy duty long looped secondary spring to act as a limiter, that would be ideal.

My recurve has worked great in 3 different engines now. I think it will provide the best mileage and the most spunk.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The 110R is really a 11R? So would i want that one inplace of my current pod? And as for springs, would i want the secondary from my current setup or the one from the points? Points seems a little thicker. And as for govenor would just want to keep the L13 to keep the shorter advance? Guessing i can't use the points gov?

L13 is adjustable. And points secindary has a little shorter loop but is obviously thicker with 7coils compared to current spring with little longer loop with thinner 6coils.

After playing with springs, the primary spring from electronic core feels the lightest. And the shorter fat secondary is the stiffest. Those are what is on the shaft now. With the L13 (R13 on the underside) its not going together just yet waiting for your okays haha. This is just for now until i can get ahold of slan6fan for a kit. What's the deal with govenors? I read that these motors want short gov, but you perfer the long, with a heavy spring to compensate? Is that right or am i reading things wrong. Somewhere i was reading that people were welding or brazing the slots shorter .400in max. Is there any benefit to use the R15 compared to the 13?

Also i tried adjusting the slack out of the secondary spring but ecentric doesn't adjust that far, its set as maxed out right now. Do i need to shorten the loop or is this normal? Primary spring is tight and has more room for adjustment.

On the 11R, yes and yes. You can check it with your hand held vacuum pump. Pick the longest looped secondary spring you have wound with the thickest wire.
You can weld and file if your racing and you want to make dead certain your limiting the advance at a specific point. I made my long slot 15L governor work just fine after talking to Doc about it. Since my car is not used for racing, I took his advice and went with the ultra long extra coiled and extra long looped super heavy gauge spring from a 440 distributor. It acts like a limiter at 2500 rpm and barely budges 2 to 3 degrees by 3000 rpm. Pick your poison......either way will work.
Since you have a shorter long looped secondary spring rotate the post all the way in for max throw. You don't want it like you have it now, all the way out. That will limit the max advance.

On the primary spring, rotate the post all the way out for max tension on the spring. That should keep the weights from flinging out and advancing too soon. Spinning it in your hand you should notice that the weights are not flinging out so easily after you adjust the post all the way out.

After making these changes and you re-plot your results, you will see much steadier numbers (the timing mark should appear steadier) resulting in a more gradual advance.

You still need to figure out rpm and vacuum at 60 mph cruise. Then the distributor can be tuned to meet your needs.

Another thought......you can make that old points distributor work just fine with the new Pertronix 3 ignition. It bolts right in. Call them to get it. If you don't want to, the Pertronix 2 is fine......just don't waste your money on a Pertronix 1, When the #2 and #3 are available for a little more....

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

So i will adjust secondary post for most slop, and tighten primary to max setting. I could just swap goveners correct? No need to change out shaft or anything? I could just throw on the 15L since you say it works well for you, or will the L13 not make a difference? Do i want as much advance over 3k i can get for passing a truck, in a daily driver. the current secondary spring is noticably stiffer then the original one i was using. Not as long of a loop but quite a bit thicker with an extra coil. I will also throw in the 11R pod. Where should i set that initially? Two turns out? Ill be throwing all this in tomorrow morning so i can drive again. I appreciate all the help aggsvted

Yes.
At 60 mph, you want the mechanical to stop or not move much while passing. It may cause the engine to ping if it keeps advancing.
Use the thicker one. Hopefully they are both the same overall length.
3 turns out is a good place to start.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Spinning tire 10times i got about 14.5 turns on the shaft. Which comes out to 2.90. Is there any rear end with a # close to that? I could spin tire more to be more accurate i suppose. I don't have a tag on rear end and fender tag on a 65 doesn't have a rear end code i guess.. from there i can find my rpm at 60. When you say vacuum, is this true manifold vacuum or do i need to tee into the ported vacuum?

2.93

which is what I have on my 64

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yes, true manifold vacuum.......not ported.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Looks like 2568 rpm @ 65mph

kielbasa, have you seen this thread?
I modified my distributor for easy recurve tests

Olaf

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Aspenized

kielbasa,

Take a look at the February 2013 MOPAR Action, starting at page 40. Great article on what we have been discussing. Much of what I have told you is described in this article and much, much more.......

You might want to grab some graph paper and plot your as-is curve to use as a baseline. That way you can compare your changes. It is too bad the links are dead in Engine FAQ, recurve section. You could easily plug in your values and see them very quickly. Plotting by hand will take a few minutes but is well worth it!

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

As of right now, it seems to have a bit more pickup off the line, doesn't really wanna spin tires, flat spot is gone, everyonce in a while ill get a flat spot off of idle. Ill have to re check #s. I get no pinging, even under a load on a steep hill.

And slantfan is out of kits at the moment

Plot your new curve with these new parts and see where the changes occur visually by comparing it to your baseline plot. I would check your mileage after a few tanks and see if there is a measurable difference. It may take awhile to get used to it's new behavior.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG