If you can lock up your brakes, you need better tires and more lock-resistant brakes. Preferably ones that can be relied on to stop the car in a straight line instead of in a veering curve towards whichever side happens to be adjusted slightly tighter at any given moment.

There's a phrase for that kind of brake. We call them "disc brakes".

Here's a fun historical tidbit: Federal minimum-acceptable-performance requirements for passenger car brakes came into effect on 1/1/76. On that same date, disc brakes became standard on a lot of cars they'd been optional on through 12/31/75, including Darts and Valiants.

That's kind of difficult to explain, isn't it! It's almost as if "good enough to lock up is good enough" doesn't accord with how things work in the real world or something.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've found two makers that have disk conversion kits for the 9" drum spindles. They both require 15" wheels and one specifies large bolt pattern.
I can't help wondering if the 9" spindles and their ball joints are weaker than the 10" ones, such that the disk brakes might overstress the hardware I have.

Just because you've opened a can of worms, you don't have to eat the whole thing!

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

The 9" drum spindles are smaller (therefore weaker) than the 10" drum spindles.

You (pick one: are, are not) willing to change the rear axle to have the large wheel bolt circle at all four corners?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Definitely am, but can't seem to find an 8 1/4" LBP A body axle assembly. I'd like an 8 3/4 but the looking I've done indicates that can easily top $1,000.

You directly addressed the question that's been foremost in my AZ Dart restification thinking. My '64ragtop came to me with front disks and an 8 1/4 and that would be fine for the current project.
The reason I keep thinking 8 3/4 is that I like the ability to change gearing for street and track use. (Add another bunch of money for a spare pumpkin.)

Some folks have mentioned a furd 8.8" rear from a maverick, but for some silly reason I'd like to keep it all MOPAR. I'm keeping my orange box ignition for the same reason.

My first priority for the new/old car is to the steering and suspension, the disk brakes could wait. The 9" brakes will stop the car, eventually! I just hate paying for duplicated work if I don't do both at the same time.

As you noted previously they do require more diligence (mainly more distance between me and the next vehicle ahead). In today's Austin, Texas traffic someone will pass (maybe on the right shoulder!)
to get into the extra space I'm leaving. F***in' IDJITS!!

It's a challenge I've never faced before, and I appreciate all the advice and comments I've gotten here.

Update: More searching turned up 2 "10 inch bolt cover " dodge 4 1/2" b.c. rear axles. They're in fairly distant states, so price + shipping (if they'll ship). More fun tomorrow....

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

a good tight front end can be achived just fine with rubber bushings. No need for polys unless you realy plan to flog on it. And the saying go poly and never replace again just is not true. I have ruined many poly bushings its all about how you treat them. As for brakes the minimum I would consider to put my family in would be the first gen K-H set up but harder to get parts for now adays. And next is the 73 up disc set up. You really don't need new upper control arms, there is a bushing addapter that can be used and is cheaper than new upper arms. The spindles can even be found out there new but pricey. You just have to do some hunting. I found 2 sets of 73+discs in one weekend once I started hitting you pull it junk yards after a month of computer searches.

Those are definitely drying up.
Yeah, not cost effective and really not necessary behind a slant-6. The advantage is the easy ratio swap, but these days an 8¾" is a spendy pay-to-play, as is every spare centre chunk.
Yep, you're being silly: staying with an inferior ignition system and rejecting a good, reliable, durable and cost-effective way forward on the rear axle because...um...because...gee...because...um...because...Mopar. :shrug:

Guess you'll have to spend the money for a built 8¾", or spend the money to ship an 8¼" from wherever one might be found, or…???
Yup.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How did you know that Silly is my middle name? And are those furd axles any more available and/or less expensive? Then I've heard about needing to shorten one side of the axle, so add machine work$$$.
Lots of folks are pushing G M ignitions, but I've never had problems with orange boxes or stock ballast resistors, for that matter. I carry spares and know how to swap 'em. If it ain't broke, why "fix" it?

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

I suffer the same malady. No logical reason for wanting to keep my cars as close to pure Mopar as possible, just as there is no logical reason to prefer a brand of any other product. I just do, and I don't care if people think I'm nuts, because they are just as nuts about other things that are none of my business to criticize.

I enjoy telling people who comment on my '73 D100 that the custom interior includes parts from a '65 Polara, '68 Fury, '70 Duster, '79 Cordoba, '79 Aspen, '87 LeBaron, '80-something L-body, '91 Ram, and a 2003 Caravan...and probably some other Mopars I've forgotten.

PS...I forgot the '90 New Yorker and 2005 Ram.

Okeh, fair enough

But then don't let's see any parts from Edelbrock, Holley, Jegs, Mallory, MSD, Milodon, Offenhauser, Weiand, Wilwood, Wilcap, Accel, Autometer, Walbro, Trico, PolyBushings, or any of dozens of other brands on yer car, because ZOMG NON-MOPAR PARTS!!!1!!1!!!!

(Sorry, I seem to have got us off track. My mistake, I thought the subject of this thread was how to make improvements in a logical and cost-effective way. I didn't realise it's how to make improvements in a cost-effective way without using perfectly good parts—optimal ones, even—that happen to have a particular brand name on them that we gosh, just, shucks, just, I donno, just kinda don't like.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you are wanting to stay small bolt pattern, and want the KH disks, I might sell mine.I got stuff to convert my wifes 64 to disks, but will probably just go large bolt pattern, and get the big bolt axels for her 8 3/4 also.....( I have a set of the 8 3/4 small axels if you need a set) so this stuff is out there.
I Drive only Mopars....dont want gm brakes on my car, BUT I do have the HEI set up on my drag car.....dont mind the electronics, but dont want the mechanics. Its all personel preference.
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Heck, Dan, I've been off track since I don't know when! You don't need to take credit for that. I never said that Ford or GM parts aren't perfectly good-might even be optimal, they may very well be. If I drove Fords, I think GMs and Mopars would bo on my "just kinda don't like" list.

I have owned and driven Fords, Chevys, GMs, British Leyland, a Nissan, a B.S.A. and a Norton Manxman with a Triumph engine, and they've all served me as well as I treated them. My family bought Mopars from the same dealer in southeast Texas for over 30 years. My first car was a '55 Plymouth, and I worked pit crew for a Plymouth drag car when I was in high school.

Since I retired and bought my little patch of homeground all my wheels (except the electric bikes and scooters) have been Mopars. My cars, my money, my choices! I'm a long way from wealthy but I don't have to low buck everything either.

I appreciate your advice and expertise in many areas. I have read many of the threads you've authored and contributed to. and I've learned a lot, thanks. But down in the swamps of southeast Texas, an old geezer told me this: "Ya know, some folks get their learnin' from books, some get it from watchin' other folks, but some of us just got to pee on the 'lectric fence for ourselves."

Now to bring up the topic of the forum, I may go ahead with the brakes and suspension/steering upgrades and keep my stock 7 1/4 rear 'til something better comes along, (and carry two spare tires)

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Yup, that little stream of saltwater will steepen up the old learning curve quicker than a 2x4 applied rapidly between the eyes. LOL

Below comment applies to me witnessing the above:

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It would be helpful if there were a sticky or Tech Article that listed some of the options for upgrades and what range/models the parts came off of.
7 1/4 LBP, 8 1/4, 8 3/4. What cars did they come on? Are they A-Body specific (early or late)? Is there somewhere you can find this crossover information? (other than the SEARCH feature )

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1964 Dart GT

I would find that extremely helpful! Specifically, are the A body axle track and spring perch width the same as any later models. if no one has that info handy, where might those dimensions of the post Dart Mopars be found?

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Back to the ferd 8.8, if i am thinking correctly they dont have a drop out "chunk" either.. the ford 8" or 9"....

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MRO....

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