After 2 1/2 months I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. The guy who did the rebuild is very good but he's getting a little senile I think. Anyway, I noticed there are threads on the front of my crankshaft where the harmonic balancer is attached. I don't recall seeing a bolt holding the damper and pulley to the crankshaft when I pulled the engine. In fact, I seem to remember trying to turn the engine over via the crankshaft, but could only find one of the three 1/2" or 9/16" bolts that holds the front pulley to the harmonic balancer. He felt there should be one and claims to have rounded up the one that came out of mine. I have looked in my Plymouth manual, but I can't find a photo showing if there is one in there. Can any of you who know for sure tell me if a bolt is supposed to go in there. If nobody knows for sure, can you take a look at yours and let me know. Mine is a 1968 model. Much thanks to anyone who can tell me.

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Future replica police unit: 1968 Plymouth Belvedere 4-Door (aka "Christine," according to my wife).

to my knowledge all cranks had the threads so a crankbolt could be used, not all of them had the bolt, but they all had the threads.

well atleast the 6 or so slants i've had

Justin

After a certain year, 73 I want to say but can't be positive, they came with a bolt. Its only a safety item not a necessity. I've known /6's driven for decades w/o them and all was well.

You can go to your local hardware store and get a 3/4" fine thread bolt if you really want one. The ones off of small blocks also fit if you have a junkyard near by.

If you think you have a senile engine builder I'd be more worried about a bearing cap droping into the oil pan then the harmonic balancer bolt.

Pierre said, "If you think you have a senile engine builder I'd be more worried about a bearing cap droping into the oil pan then the harmonic balancer bolt."

Good Lord, don't say that

Actually, I'm not too worried about the inside of the engine (okay, maybe just a little now ). This guy has been around for many many years and of the people I now who have had machine work done there, I have never heard a complaint. It just seemed odd that he had to search for one of the distributor clips and the spark plug sleeves . The bolt for the balancer is something I noticed and asked him about, even though I didn't remember seeing one when I removed the engine.

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Future replica police unit: 1968 Plymouth Belvedere 4-Door (aka "Christine," according to my wife).

LOL sorry didn't mean to scare you but just trying to put it in perspective.

Those plug tubes are annoying as heck I never manage to keep em on during a plug change even after putting rtv around the gaskets.

I see them mostly on late Truck slants, but never on a car /6...

The bolt is like 1 or 1.25" NF 3/4" or so...

It's good to use one to put the damper back on without using a sledgehammer, and it also helps to set up your timing if you use a clutch fan.

You can also go to the junkyard and pull one out of any Mopar V-8, if you're out 'yarding'.


-D.Idiot

Our '74 Dart Sport does not have one. Like D.I. said, it makes it easier to turn over the engine by hand. When we first got our Dart, the engine was seized and I could not get it to turn over using the fan (the belt kept slipping). Wish it would have had the crank bolt at that time.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I am in the minority, but my '87 225 truck came with a crank bolt. It is a 1.25" long x 3/4 UNF thread.

As for installing the dampener with it...where/how do you keep the crank from turning? (engine out of vehicle) It took me a good hour and three pieces of 4x4, and an 8 lb sledge to get my dampener back on (yes, I greased it w/ assembly lube)

It is handy for turning the engine over, assuming you can get the 1-1/8" socket/wrench down to it.

-S/6

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

I always used the wooden part of a hammer. Slide it down between the crank and crankcase wall. Let the crank butt up against it, and tighten away.

THANKS!!! for all the replies. I feel a little better now. Like I said, the guy rounded up a bolt, which will no doubt help me turn the engine over for my installation. I will be installing it this weekend and will surely have other questions. Boy am I glad this site exists. Thanks again!!

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Future replica police unit: 1968 Plymouth Belvedere 4-Door (aka "Christine," according to my wife).

According to the '66 FSM, the threads on the dampers were there to allow you to install a variety of threaded tools. I seem to remember an illustration of a threaded puller as well as the crank bolt possibility. In any case, the threads are not to hold anything in there that needs to be there with the motor running.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I almost forgot that I took several digital photos of the motor before I pulled it. I didn't get a good view of the front, but I could tell a bolt was not there. I installed the motor over the weekend (took my time to get it right) and fired it up last night It cranked right up and sounded great. I haven't test drove it yet, but look forward to doing that sometime today.

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Future replica police unit: 1968 Plymouth Belvedere 4-Door (aka "Christine," according to my wife).