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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:25 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Hi all. Engine teardown has been in process for a week+ because I started dismantling the engine the weekend before going back to work from vacation. GREAT timing.

Done pretty well so far, but I've run into a snag - exhaust manifold flange bolts (to tailpipe) are locked together. Tried all I can think of to loosen them (have soaked with Liquid Wrench for days, used a socket wrench and banged, open-end wrench and tugged, box-end on the nut below), but nothing has worked. Don't have an impact air hammer, otherwise I might try that.

Anyone have a tip/technique to suggest?

PS - so far, only one broken exhaust manifold bolt - and there's still plenty left to grab ahold of to turn it out. BUT , one of the long bolt-together manifold screws did break off in the lower exhaust manifold flange. Damn. Was hoping I might re-use the manifold, especially since it has the correct semi-closed choke-pocket for the automatic choke. New ones don't have this closed, correct?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:30 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2004 12:56 am
Posts: 496
Location: Los Angeles
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glad to hear you've started in on it.

as for the manifold to exhaust bolts. i'd say keep soaking them, and use a box end wrench (the closed end of the open end wrench). preferably long handle, or if it's a shorty, find a pipe that fits on the end to give you some leverage, you might have to smash the end of the pipe to fit over the head of the wrench... often times when nuts are seized, it's best to "rock them". first rock the wrench clockwise (tighten it), then rock it counter clockwise (loosening). what you're doing is breaking whatever rust or seal it has down in those threads. when i'm trying to take some lug nuts off a stud and they're seized on, i first tighten and then loosen them to break them loose. you could also turn the car on and let it run so the manifold heats up and loosens those bolts for you. another option is to use a propane torch and heat the exhaust pipe, i wouldn't put the torch to the manifold side, but to the exhaust pipe side, for fear of causing stress on the manifold.

good luck! good luck!

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr
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Last edited by ValiantBoyWonder on Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: TEXAS
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SOAK THEM in this! I had Great Result with it.

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1964 Dart GT


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 15, 2013 2:37 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:44 pm
Posts: 128
Location: Tampa Bay Area, FL
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I agree with Danarchy, that stuff is good. Liquid Wrench is also good.

You could also try taking a torch to it until it turns red. Once it's red, spray it with penetrating oil. The heat should expand it and the oil should be-able to get a little deeper into the threads as it contracts it.

When I took the bolts out of a junkyard exhaust manifold though, a few days with two or three applications of penetrating oil worked just fine.

Good Luck,
Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:00 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2013 7:24 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Oahu Hawaii
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This is awesome, I'm rebuilding a 66 valiant wagon! Rebuilding a 69 225 while I drive the smoky 66 . I'm in the same boat as you as I have never tore down /rebuilt a motor before. Maybe we can share experiences as our builds progress. I gotta catch up! Stoked to hear someone's on the same path to rebuild

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Aloha
1966 valiant 200 wagon


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:55 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model:
n/a


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