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PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Those purpose made ones are expensive... I was thinkin of making my own for first time engine startup since we can't do the stick a drill in the block and spin routine the v8 guys can.

I was thinking of getting a large, maybe 2-3" pvc or black iron pipe with end caps. Thread the top for a fitting to run to an air compressor. Bottom for a hose that will go to the drilled out NPT thread at the main oil galley pad. Could put a ball valve on both caps.

Connect hose to block. Close bottom valve. Open top valve, use a funnel to pour in oil. Close top valve. Attach air hose, pressurize to 40-60psi, then open the bottom valve. Voila, instant oil everywhere. With a big enough pipe you could fill it up with all 5 quarts.

The only concern I had - this would also push oil up into the filter. With the anti drainback valve built into the filter, this could lead to air trapped in it. Would this cause any sort of air lock problem? Hmm, could remove the oil filter and attach hose directly to oil pump. Would need to figure out the threads on the fitting or direct to pump without the filter adapter fitting. And of course the pipe would have to be kept vertical.

What say ye?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 3:47 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
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is this first time startup as in on a regular basis? or i just dropped the enginr in first time? cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:14 am 
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Location: Whitby Ontario
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Buy a small garden sprayer, cut off spray wand, buy a small engine fuel shut off valve with hose barbs each side, install valve in sprayer hose, use a 1/8" male pipe thread to hose barb adapter and short hose to connect to the valve, thread adapter into oil pressure sending unit hole, put oil in sprayer, pump sprayer up and open the valve. Engine should be oiled.

Oil pressure senders on a slant are 1/8 pipe thread are they not?
Yes, it does not address filter filling, but you did use assembly lube where required anyway. A few cranks with the starter, ignition disabled, should fill the filter.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:25 am 
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Oil pressure sender is 3/8. The galley pad is small, 1/8".

I thought about the garden sprayer but wasn't sure if it would build up enough pressure. It would be a bunch more bulkier too.

Originally I was thinking this is for first time startup of a new build. If made out of metal I imagine it wouldn't be a problem leaving it in long term. Maybe put in an electronic valve at the bottom - valve goes off, keeps oil in unit under pressure, valve goes on and primes engine.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
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You guys need to research how these things are constructed.

They are not just a simple container. They have a piston, much like a hydraulic cylinder, that "floats" in the "gizmo". The fluid side is hooked to your oil galley, and the gas side is lightly pressurized to 5-10 psi. As your engine builds pressure, the piston is pushed up in the cylinder until oil pressure and gas pressure are equalized. Once the engine loses oil pressure, the accumulated gas pressure pushes the oil back into the engine. Added "features" can be a manual or electric shutoff valve to reserve the pressurized oil for startups.
They are a rather simple gadget, with many benefits, just not quite as simple as your making them out to be.

Roger


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:31 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
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The piston ones can be oriented in any position.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Moroso-Oi ... y,578.html

There are cheaper non-piston versions that will work.

But they must be oriented vertically.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Moroso-15 ... 2,579.html

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
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Why????I use assebly lube,fill filter and pour last quart over rockers while cranking with coil wire off.Once ya got oil pressure re hook coil wire and fire it up.Your makeing this way too complicated in my OPINION.Guzzi Mark


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:12 pm 
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Yep... the non-piston style is a simple container with ports on opposite ends. If air has no chance of reaching the output port (kept vertical) then a piston separating the air cushion from the oil isn't necessary


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:34 pm 
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Your makeing this way too complicated in my OPINION.Guzzi Mark
This coming from the person using a hole saw 55 times to loose a pound?!? It's for the fun of overkill and making something, that's why. Plus, the v8 guys prime with a drill, why shouldn't I with this?!?!?!?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 11:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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Yea butt that pound might bee why I have a few records.And its not a V8,we dont need to :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 12:55 am 
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I have also never pre-oiled anything. Time can be spent on other things.

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:10 am 
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I guess I'm just easily spooked about oil pressure. I thought this would have been a good way to ensure 100% filling of the oil filter with 0 added stress to engine assembly lube or otherwise. I get the heebie-geebies just thinking about crankin a fresh motor over with a mini starter and no plugs.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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I agree Pierre, I have never cranked and engine without priming it first, and am a firm believer of that practice. I would take your idea to a higher level though, I would use a piston to separate the oil column from the air supply, just so air isn't introduced into the oil galley in the block. But you have a good idea, go for it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:15 pm 
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I have Never Primed any of my builds.

What i Do do is Fill all the Crank / Rod Journals With oil Before Bolking the caps on.

Fill the oil pump stand off and Pressure Cavity with oil, and Put 3/4 Quart of oil into the filter before Putting it on.. If it's on an engine stand then fill it with one quart and then put it on upside down.


You can also Do Like Terry:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWPytZpCNRQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PihBgycTY4

Run your Cam with no chain and/ lifters Until you get pressure, Then Button it up.


Greg

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:51 am 
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I have done both. I have pressurized container, that I fill with oil, and connect to the pressure switch port on the pump (sometimes). It doesn't seem to make any difference, either way, as long as you use a good assembly lube when putting the engine together.
The only bearing problems I ever had with a slant six, was when I first started hopping them up from "stock eliminator" trim. I had problems with #5 rod bearing. After I started using fullgroove mains (in 1977, never had another bearing problem. Maybe I have just been lucky, since, I have never wiped a cam lobe, or a oil pump gear, either. Now blown head gaskets, and melted pistons, that's another story :wink:

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