I have a 400hp 82 mercury capri with a nova front clip holding a 355 sbc. I'm alredy the king of the track as far as my buddy's go. silly ricers useless wings are for penguins. sadly My crazy one off street legal race car has to much engine for the chassis and i need to put in a roll cage sub frame connectors and a stronger rear end.

I got the valiant for a steal I might just make it a show rod more or less with some go fast goodies. the hyper pack does look cool and packs a punch from what i have read.

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

Update: I rebuilt the carburetor still will not run i have tried different positions for the mix and idle screw. almost all the way out it did run for a bit i had to give it some gas to keep it going. I'm beginning to think there's a bigger issue. I got a quick video on YouTube of me turning it over you can hear what it sounds like while doing so. I almost think that the timings off or something even worse then that considering that it sounds like it is misfiring hard. If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.
http://youtu.be/B-xGCc_sn5g

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

Pull the valve cover... may-be it "jumped" a pushrod.
DD

I really hope its not, Might as well remove the cover just to see how well it is in there. im also going to check the valve lash as a previous member suggested.

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

Ok I am offically Out of my League here, and stumped on what it could be.

the valve lash was spot on according to the specs. no rod was bent or off at all. I fiddled with the timing and nothing changed the starting conditions no matter what timing it might start up and sputter some then just die or just struggle to turn over and bang, I can see the fan through the gap and it will turn over smooth some then its like the fan slams into something. (I checked there no clearance issues) I want to say its the coil? but really I have no ideas.

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

Check timing + spark plug wires (153624). I heard some backfiring I believe.
Next check that the coil is indeed recieving voltage.
Engine needs to suck, bang and blow.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Check your timing and verify the cam chain has not slipped a tooth or two.
If the previous owner was not savvy and did not maintain the car, suspect all adjustments. Lash will tighten up most times when not adjusted. At least I have seen it tighten more times than loosen.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

As mentioned previously, make sure number one cylinder is TDC when rotor is pointing to 5 o’clock, and plug wires are in correct firing order.

Test for voltage at coil. Chrysler has two voltages at coil, 12V when starter is engaged, and 5-7V when key is in run position. During starting, ballast resistor is bypassed, than once started a second circuit with ballast takes over. Check for spark.

I agree, something funky is going on when engine turned over. Make sure battery is full charged.

Pull all plugs, remove valve cover, turn engine over with starter listening for rpm changes, and watch valve train for stuck valves. If there is a rhythmic change perhaps there has been a recently freed stuck ring or valve causing a lot of drag every time piston passes over corroded area.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

well thank you all for the help I have a lot of work on my hands. Does anyone have an image of the firing order? I believe its correct but i need to be sure.

I never met an engine i could not fix this is the first time i ever had this much of a variable considering each time i turn it over it either will run for a while then die out or just do that strange stopping dead every once and a while.

the battery is always fully charged and i use a jump pack as well so i don't kill the battery.

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

ALRIGHT! I managed to fix the strange stopping dead kick back. unfortunately now it just turns over i might get a few sputters but just turns over. thankfully no strange kick backs though so that's a good deal I managed to fix one issue with it.

I want to say the spark is not good enough? I have yet to test the coil that's my next thing on the list but Almost there it seems! thank you all for the help it means alot to me getting this 47 year old machine back on the road where it should be (after i upgrade the front to disks or at least a modern master cylinder)

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

Hey there,

What did you do to fix the kickback?

Also, I just noticed your location... I'm in Gray, Maine.

- Mac

Number one cylinder is closest to radiator. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. #1 at distributor would be at about 5 o’clock.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I changed the timing on the engine. it is no longer there, however if what wjajr said is true i have the timing totally off, the Information i found online was #1 cylinder is the one closest to the firewall. and the distributor timing should be around 11oclock.

Im worried now. because it no longer does the kick back but wont run just a sputter every now and again.

slanted opinion you are not that far away thats good to know haha might need help if i cant figure this out!

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.

STOP. and don't do anything else until you have a Factory Service Manual.

p.s.-dist can be set in a number of different positions, but #1 cylinder is closest to the radiator.

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1964 Dart GT

well I never had a need for a service manual before, It looks like i just need to slow down and take my time on it. I will try to locate a service manual hopefully a paper back considering its just better that way. thank you.

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1966 Plymouth valiant 200 wagon 225 slant six.