Thinking about it the plate can be only one way. So yes its right. There is very very small faint light showing through closed plate. Just as it did before.

Maybe when the holes were machined to accept a bush they were not located in the same position.Sure they may be close enough to center the butterfly,but if the shaft is higher or lower than original it would affect the butterfly position on idle circuit slots?

no other carbs. to borrow parts off of? switch out mix/idle screws? you completely disassembled the carb. when boring out the shafts? sorry, just grasping at straws here.

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1964 Dart GT

I disassembled as much as needed to for bush. Car would not run right figured something got clogged so completely went through it making sure jets are clean and passages are clear...

SlantSteve touched on something there. With the butterfly closed, can you see any of the transfer slot? You should see the idle circuit, but if the transfer slot is unmasked, you will have too much fuel at idle.

Is vacuum irratic when you do get it to idle? This can play havok with timing if the ported vacuum starts coming in. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it. See if it improves idle quality.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I will look at the slot when I get home, I'm at movies at the moment waiting to watch the oz movie with the ol lady. I did notice there was a hole closer to the base under the butterfly. And I might have noticed a small amount of the slot rihht above the hole showing from thebottom of the carb. So I should not beable to see any of thr slot when plate is completely shut? Viewing from the bottom.

With screws not touching. The slot is completely covered.



Here is about where I need to set it to idle very $#!+ at about 900rpm

I'd blow out all the passages again.

See if you can figure out the path for each passage, and if carb cleaner makes it all the way through.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Barring that, advance the timing some more and see if it will idle with the throttle plate closed more.
With the transfer slot unmasked, it's going to run rich, and not well.

What did you set base at? Give it at least 10 degrees. It'll probably be happier at 12 deg initial advance or better.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

There can also be an issue if the throttle plate is put in upside down on some carbs. Haven't played with the BBS, but the plate is not necessarily symmetrical if the top is placed to the bottom with the plate closed.
Many have a top and a bottom. I'm referring to heads or tails.
The holes are not necessarily centered to the bore of the carburetor, as previously mentioned, where there is a difference in the side that goes to the transfer slots and the one away.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The plate is in correct as far as heads/tails. You can tell be cause the flat section of shaft makes a mark across the plate. As far as 180 degrees out or not I played with it before initial assembly and thr way its in now fits quite a bit better then the other. Shows less light when closed. I suppose I could tear shaft back apart and double check that..

Timing was set before carb was removed and running decent. The shaft leak caused rough idle and flat spots from idle. Timing was set to eother 8-10 degrees. It was 12 until it became a little warmer and started to ping from running to lean with the shaft leak

Many throttle plates I have looked at have a tapered edge, I think you will find the edge should be placed so that the long part of the taper is toward the top, just the side closest to the opening for your idle openings.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

No tapered edge. Flat peice of plate

Fixed. I believe something was seriously jammed in a port somewhere. I've carb sprayed and shot air through every passage literally 10 times. And spray and air would come out other ends. So it had to have been clean right? Doesnt seem like it. Turned the compressor to 180psi and used an entire can of carb cleaner and blasted evetything literally 30+ more times. Nothing different.... everything still coming out as it was before. But I bolted the thing on one last time and ran like a champ. Rough idle is gone from shaft leak too! Thanks for all the input guys.I've rebuilt hundreds of carbs for vws. Solex, weber, dellorto... never had a problem like this before.

Ps that idle jet is a mother &#@% to get out... warming up the carb does the trick.

Glad you got it fixed!

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1964 Dart GT