ez1990, I have a '85 B250 and was having the same symptom you described about the arcing. First let me give you my details. It was converted some time ago from computer control to a mopar electronic ignition that uses a ballast resistor. In this circuit, there is a bypass of the ballast that sends full voltage to the coil during cranking. After the engine lights and the ignition switch is in the 'run' position, voltage is sent through the ballast and then to the coil. After lots of testing and hunting, I found that this circuit was energized regardless of ignition switch position. I disconnected the lead at the start relay that feeds the ballast bypass and the arcing stops. (bad relay). I've been running it this way for about 6 months and it starts with no problem.
I'm not sure if the factory computer has a type of circuit that temporarily sends full voltage to the coil or not, but if it does, disconnect this wire, presumably at the start relay and see if the arcing stops. I can't provide any more guidance at the moment but I'll give my machine a look tonight and see if I can come up with more info.
Other symptoms I had was that after the engine was running, it would not shut back off until I messed with the ign. switch or disconnected the coil circuit. My battery was also draining with the ignition off. You did not list these symptoms but they may be related to my conversion and not relevant to your factory setup.
Maybe someone hear can confirm if the factory computer sends full voltage to the coil for starting.

_________________
1985 Dodge B250 Van

Lean burn systems do not use a ballast resistor. The computer controls the coil during startup and running.

I second the diagnosis that the computer has most likely internally failed. New lean burn computers are hard to find and expensive when you do. A much cheaper option is to just forget about the lean burn and switch to HEI.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

well I quickly found out what you meant about the lean burn systems being hard to find and expensive, I am unable to find a new one anywhere I've checked and the only way to have it "fixed" is to have it sent off and then I risk losing it in the no longer reliable postal system. I have pretty much decided to attempt the HEI conversion but I am unable to find anybody that I can speak to that knows anything about it, and when I spoke to a Autozone "professional" he told me HEI was strictly a Chevrolet product. Now I know better than that but I still have no clue on what to get or where to get it so can anybody tell me exactly what to get, down to the gage wire and how to install it. I understand what you said about the relay Reed but after that I am lost

Read the HEI conversion article under "Engine FAQ". It is well thought out and a good read.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

ok that explains a lot but do I just use my old distributor and shaft ...a lot left un-explained

No you will need the regular electronic dist. single 2 wire not the two 2 wire.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

so I need a single pick up coil? ok also do I need the vacuum advance and where would it go on the carb...and what do I do about the cap?

Yes you will need vaccum advance it should be with the electronic dist, vaccum line goes to the ported (look for your carb info for where that is).
The cap will be just like your old one, if new or in good shape use it.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

ok my current dist. has two pick up coils and no vacuum advance ....I need a dist. with vacuum advance and only 1 pickup coil, right? so what do look for at a junk yard meaning a specific motor that would have exactly the dist. I need? also when I install this conversion do you think it will interfere with my leanburn system where one pickup coil will be left with nothing to go to or any of my other systems

Send a PM to Duster idiot He can help with that info.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yes.
Any slant six distributor from a standard electronic ignition system. 1972-early 1980s Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth vehicles equipped with a slant six. Any electronic ignition distributor will work, but one from a truck or van would be "better" due to the advance curve.
The HEI system is a GM system. This swap involves using the GM hei ignition module triggered by the Chrysler distributor and usually firing a Ford e-core coil. All lean burn components will be completely bypassed. The lean burn computer will no longer control anything. The distributor with two pickup coils will be removed and no longer used. The lean burn ignition coil should also be replaced.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

ok I think I got it all figured out but when you say "usually a ford e-coil" will the chevy coil still work because I found the bracket/coil/heatsink togather fairly cheap that just leaves me the module and dizzy to acquire

Yes I have Chev coil on mine and lots of the other people do also,.
When you get the 4 pin modual you will need to cut off 1 of the fins to get it to fit. You will see what I am saying when you try to fit it.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

ok I've acquired the bracket heat sink and a coil but it only has three pins and only two wires on the plug, is there anyway I can use this coil to save money?

Reed:
Not true.


Our 1976 400ci 4v Lean Burn equipped Cordoba purchased spring of ‘76 had a ballast resistor. This was the first engine Chrysler fitted with lean burn, and believe the only Car/ Engine combination in 1976 that did not come from factory with a catalytic converter.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC