I swapped in the pertronix ignition 1 year ago. Immediately I noticed great results, no missing, much smoother running. About 3 weeks ago the ballast resistor went bad (crank but no spark), so I changed it and went on. I drive the van daily. Now today, I cranked over to go to work and the same symptoms occurred. I crank it and it doesn't spark, cranks strong too. SO.. I read a bunnnch of posts to try to tackle the issue. I put in the new ballast resistor because i bought 2, nothing, bought a new coil to test, nothing, cleaned all grounds and connections, nothing. STILL NO SPARK dammit.

1) Are these the symptoms when the ignitor II system goes bad?
2) is it possibly the ignition switch? It's still stock 1972

Thanks in advance,you guys have already helped me out immensely.

other info:
4 pin ignition.
all stock besides electronic ignition

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'72 Dodge B200

Also, the ignition module is roughly 2-2.5 years old, and is the same from when the van was points. Is there anything that could have caused that to kill over?

All plug wires are the same age as well

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'72 Dodge B200

I always thought the Ignitor kits were to be used like the original points distributor with no EI module? Typically one lead is for the coil and the other is for the ground.

I'm not too well versed in electrical, but the ignitor kit drops in to where the points went into the distributor, and has one - and one + running to the coil. I've tried 2 different coils now still with no spark. I looked at the diagram I linked below, and it seems that the ignition module, and the distributor (with pertronix kit) are the only two things left it could be. Or is there something else? I need to learn this stuff haha. luckily this has never happened on a road trip *knock on wood*

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Igniti ... m_4pin.jpg

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'72 Dodge B200

The pertronix is not for use with the mopar EI module per the picture...it should just be wired to the coil like the original points distributor...

http://www.pertronix.com/support/manual ... 12vneg.pdf

I think the instructions in your kit for the Ignitor 2 should show that the red wire goes to the + side of the coil only (with the ignition power wire on that post as well), and the black wire going to the negative side of the coil to fire it....), air gap between the wheel and ignitor module is .030 (feeler gauge)

If you want to use the mopar EI module, use the mopar EI distributor....otherwise remove the module and hook the leads up per the description above.

-D.Idiot

The ignitor 2 doesn't need the ballast like the ignitor 1 does (with 1.5 ohm coil).

Bypass the ballast and see what happens

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

He'll have to un-engineer the mopar EI module as the petronix has to wide of a window on it's trigger compared to the 'tooth' on the EI reluctor to trigger the module...but looking at the literature I'd agree he can get rid of the resistor and take out one more item that could malfunction in the larger scheme of things.

-D.Idiot

I appreciate the help guys. I bypassed the resistor... still no spark. As per pertronixs suggestion i tested the ignitor 2 by running its red wire straight to the positive terminal of the battery... no start or spark. Waiting to hear back from them. I've read both great reviews and bad ones... but i was really hoping i could get more than a year of use. Im going to give it one more shot after work. If theres any other ideas let me know! Thank you!

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'72 Dodge B200

Two simple checks first......

1. Do you have power with the key on the run position at the dark blue wires where the resistor was bypassed? If not, the ignition switch is bad.

2. Do you have power at the coil with the key in the run position? If not, the engine harness is bad.

3. If you have a good 12 volts at both locations, then the unit could be the culprit....

4. You have a old points distributor that you converted correct?

The Pertronix units can fail if your not running a full 12 volts to them.....and by not having a good ground.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thank you for that info. I like cut and dry haha. I have power at the coil, thank god, no power at the ballast resistor. I'm going to replace the ignition switch tomorrow and see what happens. I love you guys

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'72 Dodge B200

Generally speaking, when the points open, they break a connection, which collapse the magnetic field in the coil, which make a spark.

The electronic ignition distributors has a reluctor that passes a magnet to make a signal to the ignition module, which triggers the coil to make a spark.

So points ignition and electronic ignition in general works in opposite ways. The Pertronix unit may be set up to handle both siuations.

Olaf

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Aspenized

you could bypass the ignition switch to see if that is the problem... but did you already have a Mopar electronic ignition in this '72? How did you splice a Pertronix into a 4-pin control unit? And what was it doing there if you had points+condenser before installing the Pertronix unit?

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Never seen a Valiant I didn't like!