In completing my engine rebuild, I'm re-connecting the steel transmission cooler lines. I notice that some of you run steel lines to a point, then braided teflon or other lines to the cooler. Smart idea, and certainly easier to wind through the engine parts though not original, and I'm trying to keep the original look. Never thought I cared about it until I went to all this trouble of a rebuild, then realized I did.

These trans lines have lots of bends and curves that are a bear to re-create nicely without kinks just using a simple tube bender (no inside spring), especially the 180° curves. And that's what I'm asking about:

The cooler outlet (or inlet, I'm not sure which it is) that's located on the drivers side of the cooler tank, just underneath where the power steering pump would be located seems to have a 180° curve that swoops away from the outlet toward the tire, looping over the strut rod bushing nut and then turns back toward the block and bends up around the manifold. Most every stock Dart and Valiant seems to have this cooler line bent this way.

I'm sure there's a reason for this big looping bend, but I can't tell what it is. My efforts to re-create this loop nicely suck. I'm ready to throw in and run the line from the corner of the block straight to the cooler. Small detail, but it made me curious why the line is bent this way on stockers.

Anyone know why?

PS: I am amazed at the difference in the workability of the old steel transmission cooler lines I have (probably original equipment to the car), compared to the new lines I've been trying to bend. In comparison, the old line bends well and flares perfectly every time I made a repair, compared to the new line which flares with a lot of difficulty, and likes to kink on bends. My observations make me think there's probably a significant difference in the quality/content of the metal.

Large bends in tubing allow engine and transmission movement in relation to fixed radiator without breakage. This method is used in all ridged lines to take up thermal expansion, and other movement between equipment connections.

Personally I like the look of ridged lines they just look cleaner and neater when well done.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ah. That makes a great deal of sense. Thanks! So HOW did they get such smooth and well-bent lines in the first place? When the bend is slight, it's not a problem, but if I have to bend a line 180°, the result doesn't look nearly as good as the original. Maybe they used a small inside spring inside this 5/16" line to help with the bending, but I don't see how they could, if the line were all one line, with no break.

There is a lot of benders see below.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/t_10153_1260 ... ender.html

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The issue I have, even using a bender that looks just like the "Titan" bender on the link you just sent me is tube 'flattening'. You can use a bender to bend the tube and stretch it over a grooved half-rounded surface and yes, it won't kink. BUT, the top surface of the tube you just bent flattens out when you bend it over a half round because the metal isn't exactly stretching very well on the top surface of the bent tube. Since it can't kink, it 'pulls' the top surface of the tube and creates a flat spot there. An internally placed spring would definitely help avoid this flattening effect, but I can't believe the factory would have done that. I wonder how they got smoother tighter bends without the tube flattening out. I'm having to go back with pliers and squeeze the flattened bend back into the tube shape again. By that point it's looking wonky.

Small beans, but still. Curious.

I note that DD said he sometimes ran lines over the tranny and up the other side. I did this as well, because my tranny cooling lines used to run up and around the driver's side motor mount and very near the exhaust manifold - thus the fluid gets heated on its way to the cooler and more importantly on it's way back...besides it just looked ugly with all those crazy routes up and over the motor mount. Engine is easier to pull and put back in with them out of the way.

Also, there isn't much on the passenger side and running them there, along the frame looks really clean..

I like the steel lines too.

Maybe the tubes were bent on a mandrel type of bender, like they use to bend the larger tubes, like roll bar, or fram tubing, they don't flatten or kink the tube.

Not all benders are created equal.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Amen! I bought a few varieties,some work ok but it depends on the tube material and if its old and a little work hardened it can be a real problem. The best value for money bender I found was the "Sykes pickavant" brand from the UK,it's worked well for me on any material. If you can't get a satisfactory bend in your lines,why no just cut them prior to the complex bend area,get a bubble flare on the end and just use trans cooler hose the rest of the way? You don't need the braided hose if you don't want to,it's hardly a high pressure line and they look great,but not necessary.

Interesting. I wonder what these looked like.

@wjajr. Agreed. I thought the one I had was good, but the results for complex bending, though workable, are poor in finished appearance.

The tighter the tube fits in the block it is formed around, the less flattening you will get.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car