oh very cool thank you for the fan tip, i was planning on the small starter from whatever dodge truck also so ill keep an eye out for the fan as well when i start swapping parts. as for the dultra duels i almost looked into them but decided on the headers because of the butt dyno power gains. i realize in the end its still going to be a slant six with bolt-ons but do the duals give decent horsepower gains? compared to a set of long tube headers? and in the link you provided; pertaining to the rectangular hole in the right-most bank, looks to be sectioned... mines welded shut... not sure if thats the stove pipe or what im assuming is the hot box but my car runs fine without it. granted, i wait untill the needles at least on the first line of the gauge before driving, i can live with it just fine.

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daily driven

With regards to Dutra Duals vs. headers:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... cba2a00d02

Really, since the slant 6 is not a "cross-flow" design (with the intake on one side of the head, and the exhaust on the other), and not produced as a "high performance" engine from the factory, you would probably need to do a fair amount of work to it (porting, valve work, higher compression, cam, etc.) before headers would make much difference. What the Dutra Duals do for you is ensure that no two cylinders are attempting to push exhaust through the manifold (and exhaust pipe) at the same time (since the firing order alternates between the front three and the back three cylinders). It is unlikely that an engine with enough "street manners" to be driven daily would require more than the Dutra Duals can provide.

In this photo:

The rectangular hole is the "hot box" (or "heat riser"). It bolts directly to the bottom of OEM intake manifolds. It has a "butterfly" like a carburetor, that controls the amount of exhaust gas flow to the intake. There is a circular weight with a thermostat spring on the one side.



If you're just putting bolt-ons on a stock engine, moving to the Holley 350 will probably do the most for your butt dyno. A less restrictive exhaust will help some. A clutch fan (or electric fan) will help some.

Besides the carb, your other best bet for bolt-on performance gains on a stock engine is the distributor. If you don't have one already, get yourself a breakerless (electronic) vacuum-advance distributor (1972-1983). You can use this with the Chrysler ignition module, or with a GM HEI module (I would go HEI, since it is a superior system, and it eliminates the ballast resistor - there are instructions on this site). Make sure that the vacuum advance dashpot works correctly. Consider recurving the distributor using the instructions found on this site. Then, ensure that your timing is set correctly.

Finally, as butt dynos go, have you determined what your rear end gearing is? If you're running something like a 2.76 or 2.93 rear end, you will have sluggish performance. A rear end ratio higher than 3.50 will make a noticeable difference in how the vehicle "moves out".

ya know, this is by far the most informative, well mannered forum i've came across so far. thanks very much for spelling it out for me. i'm going to go check out that link you've provided and re-think a plan b for if i have to end up selling the set up i have now. the distributer i have now is electric, no points but i bought the car that way so i don't have much information on it.
thanks again everyone

how do the dultras sound? as opposed to stock or a set of headers..i suppose it would vary on the rest of the exhaust though.

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daily driven

If you see this under the hood:

...then you are running the Chrysler electronic ignition setup. This isn't a bad setup, but it has two downsides. First, it doesn't produce as hot of a spark as HEI, or for the duration that HEI does. Second, it uses a ballast resistor.

These ballast resistors like to leave you stranded (at least, that's been my experience). There may be a better quality ballast resistor available somewhere, but my experience with the O'Reilly and AutoZone (made in China) varieties has not been good.

If you see one of these under the hood:

...then you're already running a GM HEI setup.

Your exhaust sound is mainly a function of your exhaust pipe (diameter, collectors, crossovers, etc.) and mufflers. A good exhaust shop could give you plenty of advice to produce the exhaust note you desire. When I reference a "good exhaust shop", I'm referring to a custom exhaust shop - the kind of place where they bend all of their own pipe, and do a lot of hot rods and trucks. Some places (especially, some of the chain stores) only seem to know how to install the pre-bent stuff.

okay yeah, its the chrysler electronic ignition then, its melted once before actually i still have the mess on the fender. the other ones mentioned replace it? like same location?

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daily driven

The GM HEI setup completely replaces the Chrysler factory electronic ignition setup (all except for the distributor). It is not a "drop-in" or "plug and play" scenario, though. You will need to find a proper place to mount the HEI coil and ignition module, and you will need to cut and splice several wires in order to get it installed. You can read all about it here:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

BTW: Did you already install those Genie headers ("extractors")? If not, are you certain that they will fit? American slant 6 cars are a lot tighter on the left side of the engine than Aussie slant 6 engines are. The reason for this is Aussie cars are right hand drive - the steering components are on the right side of the engine. With most American slant 6 applications, the steering components are in the way of the exhaust system, so a set of American slant 6 headers must be contorted around the steering.



If you haven't installed them yet, you might want to contact Genie. Maybe they can tell you whether or not their headers will fit a left hand drive car. Pulling and installing slant 6 manifolds is not exactly my idea of a good time (of the vehicles I have experience with, only an Infiniti Q45 manifold is more of a PITA than a slant 6!). I wouldn't want to go through all of that trouble to pull everything apart, just to find that the new components don't fit...
[url]genieheaders.com/[/url]

great thank you gmiller, ill read up on the conversion. also, no i haven't. i was waiting on the carb filter and the manifold gasket before i tore into anything. just received the intake-carb and carb-filter gaskets tonight actually but that is a very good point that i hadn't taken into consideration. i'm beginning to think i should get a set of dultra duels made to have for a plan b when everything comes off as i hate having to put something back together just to take it off again. or pull something apart just to get stuck and have to re use old stuff to put it back together. i was going to slip a small started on at the time of the changeover but i do have the bulky power steering pump too that i didn't consider.

i have access to a very skilled welder buddy but hes an hour from my house and id hate to hack up the header in order to make it work for my application. i assume i could re-sell it just as easily and put the money towards something tried and true

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daily driven

"Hi Ian,
Please do not waste your time as they will not fit at all.
Best regards
Bradley Gilliland
Sales Manager
Genie Performance Headers"

i appreciate the heads up.. ill have to contact dan i suppose

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daily driven

If you have access to a skilled welder (with the right equipment), he could possibly save you a little money on a set of Dutra Duals. The rear portion of a set of Dutra Duals is nothing more than a modified stock manifold. The front three cylinders are cut off, and a block-off is welded in place with a nickel rod.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/exhaus ... d-mods.htm

If you make your own rear, Doug currently sells the front section for only $225.

If you're after a set of true headers, I am aware of only two real choices (current production) that will definitely fit American cars: Hooker or Clifford. Apparently, on some cars, it is necessary to "dent" the Hookers in order to make them clear. AussieSpeed has a set of headers that they claim will fit left hand drive Valiants. I don't know how well they will fit various American models.

Given the location of some of those manifold bolts, I guarantee that you don't want to go through the process of taking it apart and putting it back together more than you have to!

Another idea: If you are interested in an exotic-looking carburetor setup, have you considered a dual 1-bbl setup? Offenhauser makes a dual 1-bbl manifold.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200954993789

The Offenhauser manifold is heated - like the OEM manifolds.

You could top this off with a couple of Carter BBS carbs, Holley 1920 carbs, or Autolite 1100 carbs. If you wanted something really different, you could even throw a couple of Stromberg 97 2-bbl carbs on it (you would need to widen the openings of the manifold, and drill/tap the holes for the 3-bolt Stromberg mounts).

The Stombergs have a ton of aftermarket support. You can buy all of the linkage parts you need to get them hooked up. Even though they were factory equipment on late 40's Fords, they are available brand new:
http://www.stromberg-97.com/
Speedway Motors has their own reproduction of the Stromberg, called the "9-Super-7", which is a bit cheaper.

The Stromberg 97 is only around 155 CFMs, so 2 of these 2-bbls would not be over-carbureted on a slant 6. They are easy to tune, and parts are readily available. The Stromberg 48 is identical to the 97, except that it flows 175 CFMs. The 48 is only available used - they are often available on Ebay.

If you are interested in this configuration, you'll want to check hood clearance. The 97 is somewhat tall. I can run to the garage and measure a 97, if you need.

Here are a pair of Strombergs (these are not 97's, but are similar) on a Chevy inline 6: (I couldn't find any pics of a slant 6 with dual Strombergs)

okay cool, i'm sort of familiar with the manifold as i did a ton of shopping around before i committed to the set up i have now due to the cost shipped to my door; about 500 or so for intake and headers. if i went that route which is a definite maybe depending on how quickly i could flip my parts i would probably go with a dual 1920 figuration. the one i have now seems to be in pretty good shape. a little leaky; but a set of gaskets and i like to think it would be like new. i do have a cowl induction hood clearance-wise for the strombergs. in all honesty though i'm more of a bolt on plug and play guy as i'm weary to fool around with limited funds going towards the car and no real reason to be changing anything anyway. i suspect there was some sort of v8 underneath it during the p.o's ownership for a couple of reasons but i'm planning on sticking it out with the six. thanks for being willing to measure for me though, i appreciate the thought

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daily driven

First, you said "daily driver". Now, you're saying "limited funds". That confirms it - a DCOE is exactly the wrong carburetor for you!

Seriously, if you have a limited amount of money to throw at this project, and you rely on it as a daily driver, you really should steer away from elaborate or "different" induction systems. While a dual carb setup would look cool and could be reliable (if done right), it's going to cost you a fair amount of money to do it right. Simply slapping a couple of old Holley 1920's on a manifold probably won't yield the best results. Those two carbs really need to be "matched". They need to be free of wear (throttle shaft play, etc.), and then they must be properly balanced.

Given your situation, start by separating the DCOE from the manifold, and selling them. The DCOE should sell pretty easily, and bring in at least $250. I would put the manifold up for another $250, and see if you can move it. If it doesn't sell after a month, drop it to $200. You'll find somebody willing to buy it just because it is so different (it also appears that they are no longer made).

Then, pick up:
* Super Six Intake ($50 + $50 shipping, car-part.com)
* Bouchillon Kickdown Cable Kit ($130 + $10 shipping, bpeusa.com)
* Bouchillon Accelerator Cable Bracket ($30 + $10 shipping, bpeusa.com)
* Bouchillon Accelerator Cable Stud ($12, bpeusa.com)
* Dutra Duals Front Section ($225 + $20 shipping, dutra.org)
* Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor, with a 1.08 Venturi ($65 + $20 shipping, car-part.com)
* Rebuild kit for Motorcraft Carburetor ($20, AutoZone)
* TransDapt TRD-2086 Carburetor Adapter Plate ($18 + $5 shipping, Summit Racing)
* Mr. Gasket 1487 Air Cleaner ($19 + $5 shipping, Summit Racing)
* Gallon of MEK ($20, Lowes or Sherwin Williams)
* Foil Chicken Roaster Pans ($3, Wal-Mart)
* Miscellaneous Nonsense (throttle return springs, fuel hose, carburetor mounting studs, RTV, etc. - budget at least $50)

Total - About $775

The Motorcraft 2150 is similar to the Holley 350, but can be acquired on the cheap (with a little elbow grease). Be careful when buying a Motorcraft 2150, though - there were about 8 different sizes of these carbs that came on everything from Ford's smallest V6 engines, to some of their largest V8 engines. You need the one that was designed to fit the 70's 2.8L and 3.8L V6 engines, and the 70's 302 V8. This size of carburetor has a 1.08 venturi (you should see 1.08 stamped somewhere on the carb). Search for a 1979 Ford Truck F-150 on car-part.com. You will see about 10 different Ford part numbers associated with the 302. These are just revision numbers (they are all 1.08 carbs). For your purpose, any of them should work (since you're probably not concerned about getting one that has linkage provisions for a Ford cruise control system!). Check each part number, and find one that's pretty common (and reasonably priced). Be sure to inquire about the carb - you want one that is not overly oxidized or rusted, and one where the throttle shafts move freely. In other words, make sure that you're not buying something that has been sitting on an exposed engine, in the weather for the past 20 years.

Get yourself a $20 gallon can of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) from Lowes or Sherwin Williams (Home Depot no longer carries it). Get a Hefty Ez Foil Chicken Roaster Pan from Wal-Mart or a grocery store (this is a throw away foil 10" x 10" pan for $3). Try to find one just big enough for the carb to sit in it. Take the carb apart. Remove any gunk that you can, using a skinny piece of a paint stirring stick (or something soft, that won't gouge the aluminum). Put as many parts as you can fit, into the tray. Take the tray of parts OUTSIDE, and far away from anything flammable, plastic, or painted (just the fumes from MEK can mess up paint or vinyl siding). Pour the MEK into the tray, and cover the tray with some aluminum foil (crimp the sides of the foil around the rim of the tray, so that it sort of seals the pan - MEK is very volatile, and will quickly evaporate). Let it soak for a couple of hours. Now, using butyl rubber gloves, safety glasses, an old toothbrush, and an "acid brush" clean all of the remaining gunk from the carburetor. Blow though every port/hole you can find, using compressed air. If there is still gunk or clogged ports, repeat the process. Rinse everything off using tap water.

Spraying Gumout at an old carburetor is basically useless - you really need to soak that thing, in order to loosen all of the varnish and gunk built up in places you can't see.

Once you have it clean, you can make it look brand new by soda blasting it:
http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-t ... a_blaster/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UEGXwLUH24

A stiff wire brush and a couple of cans of brake cleaner worked well for me when cleaning up an old cast iron Super Six manifold. I then sprayed it with some flat black Rustoleum High Heat (2000 degree) paint (keep in mind that the hot exhaust manifold is intertwined with the intake manifold). If you buy an aluminum Super Six manifold, a soft brass bristled wire brush should do a good job for you (stiff steel bristles would scratch the heck out of it).

If you're installing the Dutras, don't forget to budget for exhaust work. The cheapest way to get by is to have the exhaust shop cut your existing setup back, install a "Y", and run a couple of short pipes up to the Dutras. I'd budget at least $50 for this, or up to $400 for a full dual exhaust system.

Be prepared to have the car "down" for a few days. It will take some time to take it all apart, have the rear manifold modified, the exhaust work done, put it all back together, get the carburetor linkage sorted out, and get it tuned properly.

yeah i hear ya, thanks very much. i have a spare car i drive as my commute is now 90 miles a day but before i had to drive like that the scamp was my every day. even the first month and change down there was all on the scamp but i can afford downtime on it now.. i just want to retain the daily driver reliability, i want the option the be there if i want it and if so it'll have to make the trip on a moments notice. i've had it where the commuter car, a p.o.s honda, didn't feel like starting already. hopped in the scamp and went without a second thought which was great.

i agree it shouldn't be too tough to flip this stuff. i just need to start posting sale adds, maybe i can get lucky and trade for what i need. i was planning on a custom exhaust anyway with the headers so thats not a problem, and i had factored in the downtime for the linkage i don't have for the carb and whatever tuning changes that would have been needed to be made so thats all inherently prepared for.. i just didn't think i would need to pull a 180 and get all different stuff aha

i appreciate the research done also, part numbers and websites always help

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daily driven