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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 9:55 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:07 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Car Model:
Quote:
Once engine self-kills, disconnect and test coil with ohm meter while it is still hot, there is no test available to shade tree mechanic to test orange box except to swap out with known good unit

I ran the truck till it died and here are the ohm meter readings:
Side to side terminal reading: 1.7
Side to top plug terminal reading: 11.99

Test all circuits in the ignition chain when it stops (won't run!). See if there is power to the ballast resister and to the coil. If you have electronic ignition check power to the main feed. When my car behaved EXACTLY as yous is, the epoxy module on the distributor pick up was loose. It would run until the parts got hot, and then ghe gap would close. I found this only after pulling the distributor and inspecting things closely. A new pick up solved the problem. A year later and she is fine, but i still get nervous driving in traffic where it died on me a few times.
Sam, I have a new extra pickup coil I could try if this is where we need to go next I could try. I will go out and make sure I have power to those circuits right now while it is hot. Thanks, Sam


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 10:38 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:07 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Car Model:
It has power at the ballast with the key in the on position. It does not have power at the coil with the key in the "run" position with the engine off. It should have power there with the key in the run position right?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 12:04 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13030
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Yes, there should be power to the coil when the ignition switch is in the "run" position.

Now would be an excellent time to purchase a factory service manual for your truck and follow the diagnostic flow chart in the ignition troubleshooting section.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:59 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:07 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Car Model:
Now would be an excellent time to purchase a factory service manual for your truck and follow the diagnostic flow chart in the ignition troubleshooting section.[/quote]

I have a fsm for my truck wich has been an awesome help source of info. However, the ignition troubleshooting chart is written based on the premise that you are using a Chrysler ignition tester wich I dont have. Having said that it does go into detail on how to test circuits, components and such wich I did alot of today while learning how to use a multitester.

Here is what I have determined so far. I have correct voltage at ecm plug (within 1v of battery). Coil resistance checks out good. I also have continuity at all components in iginition path. However when doing distributor pickup coil check per fsm I got a good ohm reading within spec then I went back to check again and couldnt get anything. Also couldnt get a reading at the distributor plug either. Could this be why sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont?? The pickup coil is only a year old and is the only component in the ENTIRE ignition I havent replaced while Ive been working on this the last couple of weeks. I'm wondering if this could be the culprit??


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 Post subject: Update
PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:33 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2012 3:07 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Knoxville, Tn.
Car Model:
I replaced distributer pickup coil with a new one only to get LESS spark activity than before.... and yes I did have reluctor gap adjusted correctly. I put the old pickup coil back in and it started like new and ran 15 min then died, spark loss condition returned. I put a new starter relay on and cleaned the dirty, rusty connections there and truck now has spark all the time and is starting runnning perfectly with no shutoff!! :D I have now driven about 20 miles and idled it for a couple of hours with no shutoff or less than perfect starts. However I am going to replace starter cable with a new one because it sparks at the relay when I wiggle it with battery power connected. Could this have been causing the intermittent spark loss condition in the ignition all along??


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