I'm faced with potentially needing to remove my intake and exhaust manifold off my newly-rebuilt engine to fix the manifold heat riser control valve that I thought I had already fixed.

The gasket I used was a Remflex gasket, so not exactly a cheapie.

If I remove the manifolds now that I've already gently 'crushed' the Remflex to get it to seal, is that gasket now useless if I tried to put the manifolds back on?

Depends.

I have not had good luck with the Remflex gaskets, they usually stick to one or other of the surfaces and split/tear when I remove them.

But you might have better luck.

I'd try reusing the gasket.

If it works, great.


If it doesn't, you replace it.....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Double gasket it. Use the remflex and a stock felpro one. (if the remflex dont stick)

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

Using a Remflex your in luck...

If you area racer and change manifolds regularly Remflex suggests using PAM on both surfaces so the material doesn't stick to the head or manifold. The manifolds do come apart with out sticking and or splitting the gasket.

I have successfully reassembled intakes even after they split. Try not to loose any of the pieces. I have had good luck on all three areas. The intake to head, the intake to exhaust and exhaust to the head pipe. In fact, I have used 1/3 of the original thickness and they sealed just fine and never burned out. I have not had that good of luck with a Felpro.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks. I haven't run the engine too long, so hopefully it's not to the sticking point yet.

Since you only need to access to the hot box.......to work on the diverter.........

If the gasket does stick to the manifold, back the nuts off a bit and slide a thin putty knife between the manifold and gasket and then go down each runner on the intake manifold side. It may break free just fine...You don't have to do it on the exhaust ports or on the head......just leave it with the two end bolts snug so the exhaust manifold doesn't move and break loose. The hot box gasket usually doesn't stick that much but use a thin putty knife on the intake side......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Did you run the engine? If there was no heat applied, it might come apart pretty easily, just be careful with it. If it was heated its going to be difficult.

If you tear it slightly you can try permatex Red. We have used that on a simple paper I/E gasket completely torn through (in half) and its held for a couple races (~30 hours). We race 24 hours of Lemons.

I have not heard of the PAM trick, but I'm going to try that the next time I pull the intake/exhaust, which will be in Dec.

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Dan H
Dudes Ex Machina