Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Mon Dec 02, 2024 7:39 am

All times are UTC-08:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 80 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 Next
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:45 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
I am curious what this is, it was bolted I believe under one of the nuts or bolts on head

Image
Resistor for the choke thermostat. The wire spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator feeds current to one side of that resistor and the other side of that resistor attaches to the wire that goes to the choke thermostat bolted in the exhaust manifold. Bolt the resistor to the rear bolt hole in the top of the head.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:46 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Better yet maybe I would be better off getting an entire underhood harness from another 1984 truck that does not have this lean burn dist, maybe that would make my life easier and make things look neater?

I do know where there is one but I do not know how much longer, it would be the same truck I removed points dist from.


Last edited by 1930 on Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:46 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
This is two other within the harness that I am not finding a home for, maybe someone here will recognize them?

Image
The black one I believe plugs into part of the EGR vacuum control system. The white plug is J1C-14R on the wiring diagram I posted. It is the positive feed for the oil pressure sending unit as well as the choke thermostat.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:51 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
These two plugs went onto this connector on intake, I do not know what the connector is nor what they are supposed to accomplish. My 1986 manifold does not have this device although the casting imprint is there.

Image

Image

Air charge temperature sensor. Part of the lean burn system. If you aren't using lean burn you don't need these wires and can plug the hole in the intake with a pipe plug of the proper thread.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:54 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If you are willing to put in the time, it is very easy to unwrap the wiring harness under the hood and remove just the wires you want to remove. I did this last summer on my brother's 1983 Dodge van. It was originally built with lean burn but a previous owner hacked in a non-lean burn carb and distributor. I unwrapped the original wiring harness and removed all the unnecessary wires. It is actually pretty easy because you will find that most of the wires in the two big black plugs that went to the lean burn computer are the wires for the emissions related items that have been removed. If you follow those wires and remove only them then your harness will get much cleaner. The only tricky part is using the wiring diagram to make sure that you aren't also removing a power feed or wire for some item that you are keeping, such as the oil pressure sending unit or the choke thermostat. It isn't that hard though.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:55 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Yay. If you do have the "brain" on the firewall then you don't have a lean burn controlled ignition. But verify that you don't have a lean burn controlled carb.
If I had the brain on the firewall ( which I did on both trucks ) than is this just a mistake or am I not reading it correctly?


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:56 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
If you are willing to put in the time, it is very easy to unwrap the wiring harness under the hood and remove just the wires you want to remove. I did this last summer on my brother's 1983 Dodge van. It was originally built with lean burn but a previous owner hacked in a non-lean burn carb and distributor. I unwrapped the original wiring harness and removed all the unnecessary wires. It is actually pretty easy because you will find that most of the wires in the two big black plugs that went to the lean burn computer are the wires for the emissions related items that have been removed. If you follow those wires and remove only them then your harness will get much cleaner. The only tricky part is using the wiring diagram to make sure that you aren't also removing a power feed or wire for some item that you are keeping, such as the oil pressure sending unit or the choke thermostat. It isn't that hard though.
I will most certainly do this, what do you recommend at this point that I do with my ignition ( other than the HEI ) you say I cannot or should not use either dist?
Thank-you for your time


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:57 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
If you are willing to put in the time, it is very easy to unwrap the wiring harness under the hood and remove just the wires you want to remove. I did this last summer on my brother's 1983 Dodge van. It was originally built with lean burn but a previous owner hacked in a non-lean burn carb and distributor. I unwrapped the original wiring harness and removed all the unnecessary wires. It is actually pretty easy because you will find that most of the wires in the two big black plugs that went to the lean burn computer are the wires for the emissions related items that have been removed. If you follow those wires and remove only them then your harness will get much cleaner. The only tricky part is using the wiring diagram to make sure that you aren't also removing a power feed or wire for some item that you are keeping, such as the oil pressure sending unit or the choke thermostat. It isn't that hard though.
Do I have the lean burn carb? I thought not.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 2:58 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
This is two other within the harness that I am not finding a home for, maybe someone here will recognize them?

Image
The black one I believe plugs into part of the EGR vacuum control system. The white plug is J1C-14R on the wiring diagram I posted. It is the positive feed for the oil pressure sending unit as well as the choke thermostat.
I do not see where this plugs into but I will keep looking ..........It is the positive feed for the oil pressure sending unit as well as the choke thermostat.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:01 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
I am curious what this is, it was bolted I believe under one of the nuts or bolts on head

Image
Resistor for the choke thermostat. The wire spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator feeds current to one side of that resistor and the other side of that resistor attaches to the wire that goes to the choke thermostat bolted in the exhaust manifold. Bolt the resistor to the rear bolt hole in the top of the head.
I did see a little knub on the choke thermostat bolted on the exhaust manifold. I did not know its purpose. Thanks for that info.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:04 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
This is the original dist from my 86 truck, this is the one I want to use, as you can see it is single pick-up and one plug, I am hoping that I can just trace the extra wires back to some point, clip them and forget about them.

Image

Th truck ran fantastic with this dist.
This is also a lean burn distributor. Note the absence of the vacuum advance can. If you pulled that pickup plate you would also find that there was no mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor. You do not want to use this distributor for anything except racing or as a trigger for a fuel injection system. in other words, you don't want it in your truck.

You will need to find a slant six distributor from a vehicle that had standard electronic ignition. DO NOT USE THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE DISTRIBUTOR. The springs in those kits are way too light for a street driven truck and are intended for drag racing. Get a distributor from a truck or van form the 70s or early 80s.
I see your recommendation now, will start looking, what about the computer on firewall and how will I plug in this standard electronic ignition to my harness, I am assuming at this point plug in the little plug and get rid of the larger?


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:04 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Numbers one thru three were not on my 1986 carb, I removed them from the 84 carb thinking I may need them, again maybe they are unnecessary, the truck ran fine without them.

I can see what they are within the service manual but the desc of their function is not clear to me.

I should have put a # 4 on the linkage in between 1 and 2 because that was also missing from my carb.

I also did not have the choke stove ( the deal on the intake to carb ) hooked up when I took delivery of truck as some of those pieces were missing as well.

Image
\


1 = vacuum operated choke pulloff. Verify that the diaphragm still holds a vacuum and then hook a hose up to the nipple on the pulloff and the correct port on the carb

2 = idle stop solenoid used to increase idle when the AC is engaged. You will need to get a factory service manual to learn how to properly set your idle speed since this solenoid is what you adjust to set the idle speed. This is a useful item that should be left intact and functioning. When the AC is engaged the solenoid plunger pops out of the body and kicks the throttle open slightly. A good thing.

3 = EGR valve. If the rest of the system has been removed, either flip the valve 180 degrees and forget about it, or remove it and install a blockoff plate.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:07 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Numbers one thru three were not on my 1986 carb, I removed them from the 84 carb thinking I may need them, again maybe they are unnecessary, the truck ran fine without them.

I can see what they are within the service manual but the desc of their function is not clear to me.

I should have put a # 4 on the linkage in between 1 and 2 because that was also missing from my carb.

I also did not have the choke stove ( the deal on the intake to carb ) hooked up when I took delivery of truck as some of those pieces were missing as well.

Image
\


1 = vacuum operated choke pulloff. Verify that the diaphragm still holds a vacuum and then hook a hose up to the nipple on the pulloff and the correct port on the carb

2 = idle stop solenoid used to increase idle when the AC is engaged. You will need to get a factory service manual to learn how to properly set your idle speed since this solenoid is what you adjust to set the idle speed. This is a useful item that should be left intact and functioning. When the AC is engaged the solenoid plunger pops out of the body and kicks the throttle open slightly. A good thing.

3 = EGR valve. If the rest of the system has been removed, either flip the valve 180 degrees and forget about it, or remove it and install a blockoff plate.
Fantastic, I do have a factory service manual, EGR is going bye bye, thanks


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:08 pm 
Offline
Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13063
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If those trucks came with those distributors, then you do not have the Mopar ignition "brain" on the firewall. Those distributors are both lean burn distributors and are not compatible with the old Mopar electronic ignition systems. You will need to install a completely new ignition system that will not plug in to any part of the old harness. You can salvage the old smaller two prong plug that used to plug into the distributor and reuse it. Just keep as much of the wire length as possible.

I will try again and advise you to upgrade to the HEI ignition system. It is the easiest, cheapest, and best ignition you can install on your truck.

Rejoice, you do not have a lean burn carburetor.


Last edited by Reed on Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 3:09 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model:
I am assuming at this point I am looking for a dist that has a vacuum canister and has the single electronic pick-up?


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 80 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 Next

All times are UTC-08:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: mcnoople and 22 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited