Cj- No leads aren't swapped they were before but that's been fixed.

D. Idiot- I totally agree with the not stock lash thing. I could have swore the lash was different on this cam and I told my dad that so we went into the box the cam came in and got the card out and sure enough it said stock lash. That made no sense to me at all but thats what the card said so we did it that way. I don't know if it's a misprint or what for my cam card but tthe rest if the specs on the card matched the cam and it's the only Slant six cam I have.

So if it off a tooth which way do I turn it to fix that once I take it out?

Also as someone mentioned earlier can I even get a correct time on it while it's running anything other than idle?

If it's retarded move rotor shaft clockwise 1 tooth.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

OK the way I understand it the distributor has already been turned and more than one tooth. The timing started at around 18 retarded and is now at 7 or 8 retarded so apparently it's a lot more than a tooth off. Also does anyone know where to get an adjustable keyway for the crank? Will a small block or big block keyway fit? I know the engine has a few big block interchangeable parts so I hope that's one since it doesn't seem like Comp Cams has an adjustable keyway for a slant six. Also it appears that the timing set Igot from Autozone doesn't have an adjustable cam gear like the one from Comp Cams so I'm wondering if this had anything to do with not being able to degree the cam right.

Check the bottom of the dist. you will find another adjustment (look at the bolt that holds the adgustment plate onto the dist.)

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I think we maxed out turning the distributor like that. It seems like the timing doesn't respond a lot when using adjustment measures. This is my first slant six build but other engines I've built respond better to small adjustments with advancing the distributor. I just had to be what seems like the only guy around here that chose a slant to build up lol. Would be so.much easier if I had someone over here that had experience building these engines take a look first hand at this engine I'm sure this would get solved a lot quicker.
BTW Comp Cams site says the lash on this 264s cam is stock lash. That just bugs me to death I could have sworn it was different than stock.

I don't think you are looking at the bolt that holds the adjustment plate to the distributor. It is under the distributor towards the oil filter (can not be easy to see from above) it is not the one you can see from the top towards the fuel pump.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Where are you located. At least generally. For instance, I'm in Oregon.
There might be somebody close enough to help you out.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

South west Missouri. I made a thread a while back lookin for people in my area and didn'trreally get any one close enough.

Page 14 of the 2013 CompCam Master catalog shows that the 252 and 264 solid both use a .010 Intake and a .012 exhaust lash...what part of the site did you look at? (same for looking up the cam by engine family too...)



Sounds like Comp just fed you a BS sandwich with no bread...

Just sayin'

-D.idiot

I run the Comp cams looser on lash to get good vacuum and idle quality... usually in the .014 to .018 range.
DD

It wouldn't be the first time they didn't tell me something. They didn't tell me there was a special way to degree this can either or an extra part I should get.

That's because cam companies expect the person picking the cam to know that the will be automatically degreeing the cam and have a set of offset bushings on hand. They also expect you to use a roller or gear setup not the stocker silent chain setup (the majority of Comp's business is Chevy guys with geardrive setups....)...

-D.Idiot

That's crappy. The other engines I've built were all GM engines and I've never had to use offset bushings to degree any of them. I don't know anyone else that has had to either so to find out that the slant needs special attention like this is surprising to me. It boggles my
mind that they don't warn you of this stuff before you buy it. I even called customer support and the guy on the phone was not only condescending and slightly arrogant but didn't understand why we couldn't degree this cam and didn't believe anything extra or special had to be done to do it. They seem to be very Mopar stupid. This whole thing has been a nightmare for me.

Richard-yes I know the bolt your talking about and yes I think we used that as well.

Of course, and there is the point...the Chevy small block out numbers any other mopar engine production by a wide margin (in fact we could total the slant six and mopar big block production and not catch up), the aftermarket is geared for the guy who is doing a down and dirty $300 chevy 350 build for his truck... apples to pomegranates...My machinist is also the engine rebuilding and machining teacher at the local community college, he's always stated that no matter the build it's best to degree the cam to make sure (and that sometimes "the dots" are just for the install, they don't necessarily make the best power if lined up...in one case he citied the late Ford 460...the dots line the gear up for 11 degrees retarded because that was the last smog requirement before Ford dropped their big block...).
What would be different than if you decided to build a Nash engine...you'd still do the research and the math. Production quality has diminished greatly over the last 8 years so I wouldn't even trust anything over the counter. Considering that the mass production guy has to finish and box the product in a very limited amount of time and in a country not close to here you never know where the 'dots' line up.
They do, there are a few pages of legal jumbo in the catalogs and on the website, but who reads that stuff. They provide cams for people who are supposed to be experienced and professionals in the field, so those people already know the risks. The tech guys on the phone don't rebuild engines they just answer questions, and generally aren't geared for non-mainstream builds (they will sell about 50 chevy cams before they get an order for one slant six cam...and even then both cams aren't the most stellar for their purpose...hopefully the quality is back up since the drive gear on the cam tended to grenade the pump gear and distributor).
Much like a gun dealer, they can sell you anything over the counter you ask and pay for, what you do with it (including shooting your finger off) is the end user's problem.

If you are taking the time and money to rebuild an engine you might as well put the time in to work on the details as well, it makes for a better build and it makes a good habit for future builds.

So now you know, and next time you will buy a better cam and make sure to set it up for best performance.

-D.Idiot

I'm half tempted if iI have to pull the motor to degree the can I'll just put a different cam in it. We've always used Comp Cams and never had an issue and the engines have ran great.Well either way I want this slant up and running so does anyone else have any suggestions on what to try next? Can anyone confirm if the big block keyways work on slants? Or maybe there's an actual adjustable one specifically made for the slant?