Hello, Slant Sixers!

I wonder if I might impose upon your good natures and considerable knowledge for an opinion.
I''ve been a lurker for some time, drawn to this site by the fond memories of my parents' Darts and Valiants. I'm in the hunt for an early A body and have a few really good candidates. I want it for a daily driver. Now, I'm a good nurse, but no wrench turner (neither is my hubby). I will have to farm out my work to my local mechanic.

I've budgeted for:
1. an AAJ or Scarebird disc brake conversion (900 for parts plus dual MC) and maybe $400 for labor.
2. A set of Scat Procar 1300 series front seats, adapters (for the headrests and the period look) as well as four-point harnesses (Wesco)--about $1,300
3. An electronic ignition conversion (Mopar Perf? GM HEI? Pertronix)? Mabye $400.
4. Some Daniel Stern-recommended lighting (Cibie H$ plus third brake light): Maybe $400.
5. New wheels (and tires) so I can get correct bolt pattern for disc brake setup.

I've found two rust-free early A's, one for $3,500, the other for $2,800. Both in good running shape and claimed no bondo/no rust. This would work well with my budget of $7,500 to $8,000 so my husband doesn't scream about safety or dollars.

What would you do with the $800 or so I have left to spend? POR 15 the subframe? Carb conversion. I have a daily commute of 12 miles and am not a racer, by any means.

many thanks for any and all thoughts,
Brianna

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I dunno. Maybe it was Utah...

First, welcome to the site!

Second, I appreciate your "Raising Arizona" quote in your signature. One of my favorite movies.

If you aren't building a high performance car, why go with AAJ or Scarebird brakes? I bet you could find a set of stock A-body disc brakes for less than $900. If you are trying to keep the small 5x4 wheel bolt pattern then you most likely will have to go with an aftermarket brake system. However, I bet you could find a big bolt pattern rear axle as well as a complete front disc brake system for less than $900.

If you aren't a racer, why the race seats with a four point harness? Why not rebuild the factory seats and use the factory three point harness? If you are considering a car with the somewhat annoying non-self-retracting seatbelt harness you should know that you can retrofit new retracting seat belts to any car.

In my mind there is only one electronic ignition swap worth the effort- HEI. Details on the swap are given elsewhere on the site.

I highly recommend some of Dan's Cibie lighting. If you have the money it is top shelf stuff.

If I had $800 to spend on a car and no major repairs needed, I would spend the money on getting the car looking pretty. Touch up paint, get it detailed, etc... I would also look into ways to soundproof the interior.

You didn't mention other improvements such as stepping up the exhaust size for improved economy and power. If this car will be a daily driver then the stock one barrel carb will likely be fine.

Good luck!

Reed, thanks for the good input!

About the seats...I just wanted to be able to have headrests in addition to three- or four-point belts. Scat Procar has a line (the 1300 or 1500) that looks period correct even thought it's not original. Retrofitting headrests to a stock bench sounds pretty difiicult and would require reupholstering (very expensive--right?).

I'll be looking for the HEI threads.

I only looked at Scarebird and AAJ cause we have no real scrapyards or pickaparts in Detroit area I know of. Nor would I know how to pull 'em.

Also, I love the look of aftermarket aluminum wheels like American Outlaws. Makes the ride look tuff, even if it's a modest grocery getter.

Does going to a dual exhaust (for the sound and economy) end up costing a lot?

thanks again!

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I dunno. Maybe it was Utah...

Dual exhaust is more expensive and difficult to install than single exhaust, and you can achieve the same improvements in economy that you get form dual exhaust by going to a larger single exhaust. There are benefits to dual exhaust manifolds though. The main one is that you virtually eliminate the possibility that the exhaust manifold will crack.

Thanks, Reed!
If I can ask one more: How large of an exhaust? Any brands?> I always hear about glasspacks, flowmaster, etc.

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I dunno. Maybe it was Utah...

Reeds got most of it as usual.

As for the $800, what comes to my mind would be the "fine tooth comb" meaning check and inspect almost anything. Fluids change: oil, trans, rear diff coolant. Filters: air, fuel, pcv. Heck even wipers, door sills, and so on. The small parts that we see everyday but dont think much about. Im sure Reed, DI or another will add to or take away from this but thats whats comes to mind w me. Sparkplugs, wires. Maybe even a set of standard wrenches and sockets, learn by doing and save even more. If you can learn and do nurse then you have the ability for a lot on a slant.
Keep us posted.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

I don't like loud cars, so if you are going with a single larger exhaust I would say 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch and a Walker Quiet Flow muffler for the same vehicle equipped with a larger motor. For example, on my brother's 83 Dodge van powered by a 225 I installed a 2 1/2 inch exhaust line with a Walker Quietflow muffler for a 79 Dodge van equipped with a 440. Free flowing and not too loud.

I am not a fan of glasspacks or Flowmasters. Those are just too loud for my taste.

I missed the part of your first post where you said you were looking for an early A body. In that case, I strongly recommend a single large exhaust (perhaps with dual exhaust manifolds an a y pip combining into the single larger exhaust) and a muffler for a later model A body equipped with a V-8 (like a Duster with a 360).

An early A might not even have seatbelts. I used to own a 64 Valiant Signet and it had the optional lap belts and no shoulder belt. Definitely get at least a good three point belt system installed.

A nice alternative for the seats would be to get the seats out of a late 90s Sebring convertible with the built in seatbelts. These can be reupholstered to match whatever interior you end up with and have integrated seatbelt, power seats, and are comfy and look good. Just be sure to get the seat belt power module and wiring.

I would guess you would have less than $100 in parts for the HEI conversion if you keep your eyes open for a distributor.

The Wesco shoulder harness kit I put in my car was $90 per side and should only take a couple hours labor, tops

The front discs would be a great upgrade. Rear disc in a light car certainly not a necessity.

If you get a car with a good exhaust manifold that is not cracked / or leaking I would just leave it alone and upgrade the rest of the system to a free flowing single exhaust one.

If I had extra money I would definitely spend it on a 2 barrel upgrade. It makes a great deal of difference in how the car "feels" when you drive it. Especially with your HEI upgrade. And it probably will not hurt mileage at all

One other thought is that for $8000 you might keep your eyes open for a car that has most of these upgrades done already.

Good luck!!
Rick

PS. You do have a good mechanic in mind, right?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

A wealth of information! Thanks!

Love the suggestion to find one "already done." Tough to find someone that's taken that much trouble with a humble early A without having doing a real "build" (hipo V-8 conversion, etc). I'd do fine to find upgrades in a pedestrian four-door! Still looking! Let me know if you see a decent, rust-free prospect! Maybe I just will pick up a manual and a wrench!!


P.S. My local mechanic has a '67 Coronet and is Mopar to the core...

Cheers, Brianna

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I dunno. Maybe it was Utah...

Ditto.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

With the $8000 budget and no mechanical experience, I second the motion of buying a car that is already done. I don't know how many are available in the Detroit area anymore, so you may have to buy out of town. So you may want to budget in travel funds.

Here's a set of Sebring seats reupholstered to look closer to period correct.
URL=http://s37.photobucket.com/user/Valiant64/media/DSC00093.jpg.html][/URL][/img]

Those came out nice!

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I dunno. Maybe it was Utah...

Yeah for $8k you can get a top of the line slant six car. There aren't many out there because people normally drop in V8's but the ones that are will be in very good shape. Your best chance is going to be an early A Barracuda since people seem to fix those up more often. Not only that but it will hold it's value better than a Dart or Valiant. I would stay patient and check craigslist and other Mopar sites until one pops up.

Let someone else spend the big wad of cash to fix it up. This way you can save your money and spend it later on to fine tune some things to your liking.

If you were to consider a later model A body....

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/4117692983.html

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/4106473538.html

Or perhaps a slightly larger model...

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/4177194688.html