Greeting all. I need mopar numbers.

I have the 1976 shop manual. I need the following from 1976:

OSAC valve PF191A oriface spark advance contol (a thermostat)
TIC valve PB410A thermal ignition control
CCEGR valve coolant control exhaust gas recirculation valve
Vacuum resivior
Holley 1945 calibrated for A833

The PVC (not PCV)system works with the carburetor and EGR valve to increase EGR time on part throttle and back pressure feedback but after a mark in the slot port in the carb circuit the vacuum signal is cut to the EGR valve for full power.

The OSAC delays ported vaccum to the dizzy by 17 seconds when going from idle to part throttle. But the feather duster uses a 27 second delay due to the intense centrifugal curve, thus PN# PF191A may be universal or may be the feather duster option. The Chrysler 1976 book is kinda overall coverage.

I need these to cure drivability in the driveline, and assume the vacuum reserve can is universal.

Please help with part numbers if these are illustration numbers.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

OSAC valve PF191A orifice spark advance control (a thermostat)
-3755582 universal for manual transmission w/o Cali Emission Package

TIC valve PB410A thermal ignition control
N/A-only lists the 225 under the OSAC system and the 360/400/440 as getting the TIC system with the 318 being either.

CCEGR valve coolant control exhaust gas recirculation valve
-3879736

Vacuum Amplifier
-4027109

Thank you.


2 things, I'd you could, the part number Chrysler refers to the Holley 1945 MT as it's own part & calibration, and, in the illustrations there is also a vacuum solenoid, mounted in the line after the carburetor along the valve cover to manifold vacuum source. I can't find anything on it other than Holley 1945 yet it's specifically mentioned to be calibrated and have idle circuts to work in this way. Also, a source for the air cleaner that the OSAC valve fits would be super cool.

Ma' Chrysler says:

Ported Vaccum Control system:

The ported vacuum control system uses a slot type port in the carburetor throttle body which is exposed to an increasing percentage of manifold vacuum as the throttle blade opens. This throttle bore port is connected through an external nipple directly to the EGR valve. The flow rate is dependent on manifold vaccum, throttle position, and exhaust gas back pressure. Recycle at WOT is eliminated by calibrating the valve opening point above manifold vacuums available at WOT as port vacuum cannot exceed manifold vacuum. Elimination of wide open throttle recycle provides maximum performance.

Thank you Doug, and thank you old school jeep. Other people with intelligence and interest without access to the information read this, so the words of Chrysler about the PVC system are there for the courious and those who appriciate mileage builds, as, you can read, it's actually very vital to the drivability of the powertrain - as much as an idle soleniod in an AC system.

Also, anyone with the right air cleaner - I have a super six air cleaner and bag of 2 bbls that can go with it if you have what I need.

But I do need the numbers from Chrysler on the Holley, just, for example, to correctly run the PVC system.

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Do you have an aluminum slant six in this car? Years ago I purchased a feather duster distribtor at Carlisle. When I put it in, the car developed serious drivability problems. I replaced it, and it ran ok again. This helps explain why.

Sam

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Well Sam,

I do. But Ive been building this car for 3 years now. If you did that, as I understand it, just dropped in a 76 dizzy, you're lucky not to have cracked a piston. At the very least you need a 74 up head without the spark plug tubes for unleaded. CC spacing is the same and accurate as a 62-63 aluminum slant. However, you see the dizzy from a 76 has an off idle mechanical curve that's sick, like 24° BTDC and as I was asking about part numbers earlier when some old jeep designation member added his funny 2¢ the emissions system has to be there for drivability. I already have the EGR valve, which is year and transmission specific, has a deeper throat to allow even more EGR gasses which cool the whole CC and these other parts insure comfortable drivability with the vaccum advance active, and the lower amount of cat pee 87 octane unleaded plus, it's carburetor is not the one from an aluminum 6 and the system is meant to run on 90°F air.

It's all that power robbing "junk" people tore off in the 70's. Like, if it had a true aluminum 6, not only did it not have an EGR valve, it didn't have the manifold equipped for one, and an air cleaner and stove to warm the air.

It's been years in the making but it's like ice cream. Aluminum block or cast iron, done right it's like ice cream vinalla or neopolotan, it's frozen cream at the first stage.

6

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Feather Carb 4006683 R-7823-A or 4006643 R-7562-A
Manual Transmission Carb 4006678 R-7811-A or 4006602 R-7356-A

D. Idiot

Thank you, kind sir, for your ibdoubious work on these part numbers. Sincerely, thank you as my numbers were illustrations. For example, this solenoid, not the one on the carb as I suppose, as always, there's an electrical B side to this song, this solenoid is California emissions and a timer comes with that flavor as well.

My only question left before beginning the hunt for all these sensors is do you know of a source of coded vaccum line? Originality isn't my concern obviously, but colored stripes would make routing issues non-existent.

6

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Al VI: I ran into this vacuum hose color coding jazz last winter when refreshing the ‘82 LeBaron’s rat nest of emission plumbing. I just replicated the little colored dashes with fast drying model paint on plain Jane over the counter vacuum hose.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

i have a feather auto car, air, original paint. i have pretty good decal underhood showing vacuum hoses but i guess your shop manual shows that. i have the carb off car that was on it when i got it. #4006644 R=5147R. looks like thats not original. i have a 65 dart and 72 /6 i;m gonna keep and offer the feather for sale. i'm not good enough mechanic or engineer to handle all that stuff and like the bare boes cars anyway!! LOL PCV is high tech for me!!! good luck puttin it all back. i drove my car 64 mi to work bout every day last year. got 22 mpg but never seems to have timin exactly on, your mails gives some indication why!! LOL

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my email is billbarbee222@yahoo.com and ph is 417-350-5951 evenings before 8 p.m. central time please

Well...

I've been driving these cars since I was in high school.

Anyway, my fathers Volarie and Aspen wagons both had the 6. Dad was no mechanic. I got what I got from having a healthy social life, and learned how important some maintenance things were to the slant. My father probably had no idea what valve lash was. So he would pass cars with smooth running everything but his ears said it needed a valve job. His jaw dropped the day I came home with a silent D-150, & explained if you just take off the valve cover and use a feeler gauge when it's running 16 procedures later your motor will be silent. Also more efficient. He was that generation that tore off all this smog "junk". I'm putting it back on because it stole power, yes, but made the engine burn every drop of petrol. He never would have dreamed almost 30 years later the stuff had a purpose and I'd be tracking it down. This is the man who cut the belt to the smog pump, & thought that it had points.

One if the things I've been working on is combining a first generation lean burn system with a feather duster setup. I had it in my youth, the box was on the air cleaner with the vacuum can and the dizzy had 2 pickups, one for cold running & one for at temperature. So, knowing what I know about both systems, the thermal vacuum control with the deep throated EGR and the mechanical curve of the '76 feather plus the carburetor in conjunction with the 81 electronic box controlled by the temperature vacuum switch would work, on premium fuel, and a solid lifter cam should let me get those extra RPM, since the carburetor that is correct has a circuit that weighs maximum engine vacuum against current negative pressure and other input, to reach a mechanical point to kill the EGR and that would give all the power needed until you resumed civilized driving. The ESC modification may just T off the vacuum line to the EGR, as it might cause too much advance when cold since it's design was dual Hall effect sensors in the dizzy and Vacuum advance; I just don't know if it was thermally regulated like a feather duster or electronic. It would all be a game if trial & error, but it's worth it. Some people have opinions and that's fine. Mine differ and I suffer socially. But see, I have the cool stuff. So talk and talk, I can play. I had a dual stove fabricated to make extra warm air more quickly, and manifold head port gasket matching and porting does help the mileage, although most would say that's throwing money away without the performance build. The feather duster also had a 2'1/4 exhaust with a 318 muffler. I had my shop powder coat the exhaust manifold and cut out the heat riser to ream the throat of the manifold to 2'1/4 to match the exhaust when they did all the work. I just need a new exhaust heat diverter door/valve/thermostatic spring, and it's going that distance for a mileage build that causes people to "try too hard" since their reading comprehension and ADD won't let them read the topic from the beginning and read something like this without making a comment about it without knowing either the build or the intention. I'm doing the 76 Duster setup on a 62 aluminum 225 block and aluminum case a833od, mainly to try to get 40 MPG in a 70 duster or similar lighter car. It's a deckless block and I sourced 4 of them for R&D to find the best solution available to my project. Playing with cars costs money. Restore a 74 year old Buick and you'll find out how quickly people make assumptions. I build aluminum engines as part of what's been called 'meditation'. The one I enjoy the most comes in 15 different flavors over 45 years, was designed by GM, has powered Pontiac's to Chiminera's and Range Rovers to MGC's, and for a half a decade Ford owned it. British Leyland engineering is so similar to Chrysler's they're like cousins. A quick example is minimal improvement for maximum profit. Power steering? We can design an all different belt system - or.... We can add another grove to the power steering pump pulley and run the alternator off the tight accessory! A pulley and a bracket! We'll just fax Lucas the specs for the alternator. Same thing when time came for switching from CD to electronic ignition. Call Lucas for the distributor and fax Bosch for the electronics. Work out a kink every 8 years. The General even made a Turbo Oldsmobile Cutlass with an all aluminum version of this motor (all 215cu/in motors were aluminum) as well as another economy 2barrel 155hp aluminum v8 with a fully enclosed air cleaner with grommets for cables and a cast in crown with notches for the grommets and bellows and nylon for the throttle pivot. The Generals "we"ll engineer anything we want" years. Named it a Rockette 8 and paired it with a roto-hydromatic 5 automatic with a dangerous shift selection, PNDLR. Plus it had an 8" internal fluid coupling and a full weight machined manual spined flywheel with a sprag clutch giving the appearance of a manual (even has a pinion bearing) which confuses a lot of folks. In fact it was marketed as a 4 speed auto because the stupid thing would empty and refill the converter on each shift like a TCC. Shifts like a 4lb. maul on a manhole cover.

But in conclusion my 81 got 26mpg with a 904 mechanical hydraulics (TCC)

6

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Thank you for the research to all that helped with this!

6

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Slant six should have stayed in production.

Dadtruck

Thanks for the boosters!

6

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Slant six should have stayed in production.