Mine is not short, its long as well.

others may have had different experience,,
but on the two oil pumps that I have worked on, I had to heat the stand pipe to get it to break free. I believe they were loctited in,,

My use would require cutting off a long one to a short one, but if you can use a straiaght long one will trade for a bunt long one that I can cut down.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I'm wondering if it is ok to run the tall or short filter with either standpipe or with no pipe at all like the aftermarket pumps come?

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1975 Dodge D100 2wd Reg.cab 225/6, 727auto, 3.55 gears, Cat delete with 2.25" Thrush Exhaust, Dist recurve by DI, 9.1 comp, Factory aluminum 1bbl intake with heatshield, 63 Jet, Delete ballast with Pertronix Flame Thrower 3ohm coil

It's OK. The taller stand pipe will maintain more oil in the filter at start up. If you use a short standpipe, or none, keep engine speed low until pressure comes up.
Tell me more about the gasket coming off. Was this when the filter was tightened down to the pump, or when you removed the filter?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

It came off after I took the filter off the pump, we got the standpipe off, its bent around the nut and the threads on the screw where the filter screws in is a bit damaged. Had to jack up the engine to put on a new oil pan gasket and I think the filter hit the inner fender well on the car.

OK. That happens sometimes. Make sure you put a light coat of fresh oil on the gasket prior to installing the filter, with a damaged stand pipe, there's no telling if the gasket will stay with the filter or not. Sometimes they will stick anyway, no matter who made the filter. I've had them come off even the Wix.

If you can score a long stand pipe, it will serve you well.

On the subject of oil pumps;
Many of the oil pumps you will get over the counter are high volume. OEM pumps were 5/8". The aftermarket is awash with 7/8" & larger pumps. The slant doesn't require a lot of oil, so much of it is being bypassed to the pan.
This in and of itself isn't an issue until considering the larger pump becomes an increased load. Be aware of this as the oil pump drive gear is a failure point.
Options to nip that issue in the bud are to lap the gear to the cam, install a hardened gear and simply inspect it periodically.

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I think I may have a standpipe coming! Thank you everyone for your help in troubleshooting, I really appreciate this forum and how it helped with getting this car running.

the OE pump rotor from the 83 D-150 was 7/8 thick,,maybe additional flow for the hydraulic lifters,,,,

That sounds reasonable DT.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I have a 1981 hydro slant and a 1983 D-150 heavy duty mill (stock with 3 groove damper) on engine stands in storage and both have aluminum body OEM 5/8" rotor pumps with flat covers. So I guess it depends on the mood of the person on the assembly line.

-D.Idiot

my 83 FSM says,
minimum oil pump rotor thickness .825

.825 = 33/40

7/8 = 35/40

5/8= 25/40

7/8 is 1/20 or 0.05 above FSM minimum
5/8 is 1/5 or 0.2 below FSM minumim

if they were putting in pumps with 5/8 rotors, they were not meeting their own specifications.

This wouldn't be the first time that happened to a domestic vehicle and if you remember mopar quality suffered hard under Iacocca's management. What the book says and what is reality can be very different (i.e. not all feather dusters came with all the aluminum goodies out of the factory...and not all were disk brake and 4spd/Autos either)...

-D.idiot

Is there any engine paint on the pump surface, where the filter gasket makes contact?
If so clean-off any paint so the gasket makes contact with bare metal only.
(I have found that the gasket will stick more often to a painted surface)
DD