So I had been having oil pressure problems. I think I asked this In dodge talk or some where else. I was having oil pressure issues with my factory gauge. I I hooked a mechanical gauge and I'm around 36 cold and no less than 26 hot after driving for a little under an hour. It sounds fine and runs fine. But after driving for 30 or 45 mins or so it takes a sec to start. After I shut it off and go to start it it turns over quite a bit until it fires. Where as when it's cold I give it one pump and it fires right up. Any clues? It's a 81 d150 with a slant six all original. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for all the spelling issues before I edited it. I think I had to many beers when I was first writing this post

Oil pressure looks normal.....at an idle.
This is normal also and is caused from heat soak. You can minimize this affect with a heat deflector, electric fans and SL6 Dan's fuel line mod.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks ted. So I take it this heat soak is with the fuel line??? I had a feeling it had to do with heat. I was gonna go through the cleaning system and clean it up. Would this help it run cooler to where I wouldn't have a heat soak problem. According to my factory temp gauge it seems to be at a good temp. Thanks for the help.

Heat soak or over driving of coolant temperature shortly after shutting down engine occurs as energy in lower block & exhaust manifold transfers to coolant. Have you noticed after a short down time between starts that temperature gage will swing to far right once engine starts, and within a few seconds return to normal? That extra heat also transfers to fuel line and carburetor fuel bowl sometimes causing fuel to boil lowering bowl’s fuel level, and or cause excessive pressure between fuel pump and needle valve of fuel bowl driving excess fuel to dribble into intake.

All these heat caused conditions make for hard starting. The fix is to keep fuel line and carburetor cool enough not to cause a phase change in liquid fuel, or cause it to be forced into manifold when engine is not running with heat shielding, and or fuel line relocation or insulating.

/6 Dan’s fuel line mod is one method, encasing metal fuel line from fuel pump to carburetor with plastic wire loom is another, and aluminum sheet sandwiched between carburetor and intake manifold deflecting heat from exhaust manifold can be used to lessen this problem.

And, this hard starting problem could be as simple as needing a carburetor rebuild, and or choke adjustment, and or following proper starting protocol, and or all of the above.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Would you be willing to expand on "proper starting protocol". I would like to see if I'm doing anything wrong.

On a very tired 1980 motor (barn find) at over 260,000 miles mine reacts like this..........

Cold (30 to 40 degrees), pump it once and turn the key. Mine fires immediately.

Freezing cold (in the teens), pump it twice and turn the key. Mine fires immediately.

Hot, and only 5 to 10 minutes after shut off, just turn the key and bang! It's running.

Hot, after a bad heat soak say 30 minutes on a 100+ degree day, crack the throttle slightly for a little fresh air and turn the key. Mine fires immediately.

On my new 9.5 to 1 compression motor cold, pump once at any temp other than cold just turn the key at let go as soon as possible as it it running.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Sure.

Cold start, that is over night or cold winter weather after a few hours sitting, depress accelerator to floor release immediately to set automatic choke re-depress about ¼ pedal travel and crank engine over. No pumping should be needed if choke is adjusted correctly full closing, accelerator pump is squirting a full shot, and idle mixture is correct.

Warm start: This is any start that there is enough heat in engine to disallow choke fully closing shut. Depress accelerator about ¼ of way down, hold at that point and crank engine over. Once again no pumping is necessary if all is correct with carburetor, engine should start right up.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC