I think thats what it is, just going by memory and I left my manual at the shop.

I have one of these carbs on my truck now ( I think ) and one that I removed from a junkyard truck, it..... ( junkyard carb ) looks like it was maybe a re-manufactured carb not used much, still clean overall except where there was bare metal with no plating and in these spots light coat of surface rust.

Is this a good carb,?

Is it easily re-built?

Id like to go thru this spare carb ( assuming it has sat for a while un-used and gaskets dried out ) but dont have the confidence too just tear into it just yet.

I am hoping the re-build kits are still avail thru Napa or am I wasting my time with a problematic carb. ?

Do I need to get a kit specifically for the year truck I am working with or are all 1945 kits going to carry the same parts?

I do not have much experience with re-building carbs and havent even yet started the truck yet after a re-build, just thinking ahead.

At this point ( or sometime soon ) I am not apposed to up-grades, not really looking for performance up-grades since it would be pointless in a 6000 pound truck but instead am looking for simplicity and easier/less problematic components.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... a0e015c087

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... a0e015c087

The Holley 1945 isn't too hard to rebuild, but it has some 'tricks' because it uses a separate top from the throttle body like the Carters. Make sure that all the mating surfaces are flat (a piece of glass and some 400 grit helps if it need to be fixed). The rebuild kits don't come with jets, but like the Holley 1920 these models use the standard jets that the 4 barrels use so you can go to a speed shop and buy one out of the guys drawer of jets, or if you order a particular size else where you will have to buy a pair...

Another item to note is the jet changed for different years and for some applications, the early versions in the 1974-1975 cars were too lean and had issues because they were equipped with a #58 jet...installing a #61 jet and resetting the linkage to the 1976 specs will improve the driveability of the vehicle...some truck models came with #62 or #63 ets, but I think the #63 would be on the rich side and cause fouling most of the time.




-D.Idiot

Ok thanks for the info, I am sure when I get ready to tackle the thing I will have more questions. At this point just thinking ahead and trying to get a feel for what needs to be done.

My truck is a 1975 D-100 and I'm running a rebuilt Holley 1945 with a 727 automatic transmission. It came with a 63 jet in it when I purchased it. I tried running smaller jets, the last one being a 61 trying to get better mileage. It did not work, the engine got slower and mileage went down because I was getting into power valve too much with smaller jet. I put the 63 back in and it runs WAY better. By the way, the factory service manual I have for 1975 calls for a 62.3 with auto trans wich is the rich side of a 62 jet.

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1975 Dodge D100 2wd Reg.cab 225/6, 727auto, 3.55 gears, Cat delete with 2.25" Thrush Exhaust, Dist recurve by DI, 9.1 comp, Factory aluminum 1bbl intake with heatshield, 63 Jet, Delete ballast with Pertronix Flame Thrower 3ohm coil

How would I find out what size my model needs, would it be in the service manual and also is the jet something that always should be replaced when re-building.....if so than why not include it in the kit?

I also need to find an air cleaner for my truck, the one that came on it was an aftermarket unit, chrome and about 3 inches in diam, the one that was on my parts truck had all the lean burn control stuff on it........its gone now anyway.

Ive tried a few off early darts in the junkyard but they dont fit correctly.

I like the look and size of the early air cleaners though........Any ideas?

No, it only needs replaced if it is damaged, corroded, or you are recalibrating the main system (changing size for power or mileage).

-D.Idiot

DI is correct you dont need to replace jet unless damaged or sizing up or down to increase mileage or up for power. I ran a Holley 1bbl model 1920 for awhile and it was alot less sensitive changing jets. The 1945 model's calibration and design I think is alot more finicky when it comes to changing jet sizes from stock.

As far as the air cleaner, I would find one from a mid 1970's /6 engine. It will have the hookup for exhaust pre heater hose wich IS important to driveability with these engines. The old ones look cool, but won't run as well for you on cold mornings.

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1975 Dodge D100 2wd Reg.cab 225/6, 727auto, 3.55 gears, Cat delete with 2.25" Thrush Exhaust, Dist recurve by DI, 9.1 comp, Factory aluminum 1bbl intake with heatshield, 63 Jet, Delete ballast with Pertronix Flame Thrower 3ohm coil

Ok thanks for the info, stupid question but arent these subject to wear, I have heard that not only the valve but the seat as well. Does this not pertain in this instance, if it does than what should I be looking out for?

Not sure what you mean by exhaust pre-heater hose but I will do a goggle and hopefully figure it out. Thanks

There is a sheet metal enclosure around the exhaust manifold near the header that is called the heat stove, on the late cars this connect via a 2" round flexible metal hose to the 'snout' on the late air cleaners...via vacuum and thermostatic switch it closes a flap in the air cleaner snout so the engine gets 'warm' air from around the exhaust manifold so the engine warms up fast and has better fuel atomization when cold, once the radiator warms up the flap opens allowing the engine bay air (or on the very late cars with the outside air ducting-air from the wheel well) into the engine and things just go from there.

Holley Jets don't really wear out since all they flow is liquid gasoline...but they are subject to corrosion and if you use additives, or poor gas, or have water in the gas tank drawn into the carb (or just sitting on the shelf for 20 years without a box or silica), then they can get plugged, or have crud all over them...the worst case is, the carb is a reman and the guy who put it together goofed up the ears on the jet with his screwdriver and manly grip and the thing is just tweaked( and may not come back out...)

-D.Idiot

The valve and seat that wear out in a carb are usually the inlet valve and seat that contact the float.

Thats what I was thinking was meant but I do not have this deal on my manifold. Thanks for the info

Ok and I assume these will come in a new kit. Thanks

The needle and seat assembly does come in the kit along with some check balls, gaskets, and some hairpin clips if the linkage on the carb itself requires it.

-D.Idiot