Hello everyone, i just traded my car for a 1967 Dodge D100 2wd short bed with the leaning tower of power 225cid/727 auto, its my daily driver right now and its running fine other than cold starts and low rpm stumbling.. ill go thru and list what ive checked and replaced..

New cap, rotor, wires(done by PO)i replaced spark plugs autolite(gapped at .035) and i removed the sparkplug crush washers, new points(gapped at .020), new fuel filter, sparkplug tube seals, and timing is set at 7* btdc, stock and possibly the original coil(will soon be replaced)

I also checked vacuum and its pulling around 18-20, ive checked for and intake leaks or vacuum leaks with carb cleaner and have found none, ive done quite a bit of reading on tuning these motors and just want the best economy out of it i can get. Hp is not a factor with this motor just mpgs and reliability.

So the problem i seem to have is the idle is smooth...ish but i can hear and feel some popping and missing, if i raise the rpms up to anywhere from 800-1300 it really stumbles and misses, but if i go WOT it revs up great and anything over 1600rpms seems to be smooth(some missing but very little and not bad)

When replacing the spark plugs i also did a compression check, only two cylinders had 100+psi and the other four were between 75-90psi... seems low to me??

Also the motor seems to have trouble when im taking off from a stop i have to slowly accelerate or feather it till it gets going, if its cold its even worse and will stall out and die.

Im rebuilding the carb today, its a single barrel carter and it could use a cleaning and rebuild, which MAY fix my issue, but i cant help but feel like it might be a timing issue too?

Sorry bout the long write but im trying to give you all the info you need to help with feed back.

Thanks

jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Jason, welcome to the board.

I think you are headed in the right direction rebuilding the carburetor, as stumbling at low rpm is a sign of lean condition often caused by too low volume accelerator pump shot when no other vacuum leaks are present, and old crud blocking internal passages.

A second area to check is valve lash adjustment, an often over looked routine maintenance item. Snapping and popping, and rough idle often are signs of valves not fully closing. The problem may be from sticking valves, or lash adjusted too tightly. Did your vacuum gage needle waver back and forth at idle?

If this truck was in storage for a time before you got it, it may be suffering from sticking valves. Run some Marvel Mystery oil, or such to help clean & lube top end. Also running good detergent oil will slowly and safely remove old internal deposits from oil ways. There are a million pages to be found on this site by using “Searchâ€￾ button, on de-crudding engines, and valve lash adjustment procedures.

Once you get the valve cover off report back as to the condition of valve train; is it clean, caked with black deposits, or somewhere in between. We can advise what steps to take once condition is known.

Invest in a new reusable valve cover gasket, and get a copy of Factory Service Manual. FSM is your best friend in the tool box.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks, yeah i still need to do the valves, ill probably be doing that tomarrow since its my day off along with the carb rebuild since i didnt do it today.

Ive already pulled the valve cover and the valve train is clean, no sludge(according to PO the motor was rebuilt fairly recently) but i cant tell forsure....

I usually run some tranny fluid thru the crank case and that has always helped clean and remove slugde and even fixed the sticky lifters in my old subaru wagon.

side note, i have a clutchless fan on this truck and that is definetly robbing hp and killing my mpgs, i would like to install and electric fan probably a 16" fan but how many cfm should it be able to pull? i found a few rated for 2000-2800cfm.. i would imagine thats enough? any opiniions on this?

I did a search on electric fans but none of the posts i read thru mentioned fan specs or performance

Thanks
jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

If you have a Holley 1920, make sure accelerator pump squirts out a healthy stream. Test it before you put it back on the engine. If it doesn't, clean out the hole and make sure there are no blockages and make sure the diaphragm springs are installed correctly. Also make sure the pump hole is not being blocked by the new gasket. Often times it needs to enlarged to get a healthy squirt.

2000 CFM should be plenty on your truck. If you can go higher that would give you a good margin of safety.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Awesome, i guess 2500cfms will do fine then. The carburetor is a carter... not sure which is better?? id like to change over to a holley 2barrel in the future... given it provides more hp AND mpgs.

Ive cleaned and rebuilt carbs and injection pumps from motorcylces to diesels so i should be able to get this pump cleaned and tuned pretty well

I did notice the accelerator pump seemed a bit weak when pumped.... hopefully its just a clog and i dont need to buy any hard parts, im really on a budget right now.

Anything i should keep an eye on with this carter carburetor?

and if any hard parts like jets or springs or a new accelerator pump need to be bought is there a popular source i should check out? thanks?

Jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Check the float level is set properly on that carb as well. There are some good links to Carter procedures in the FAQ.

_________________
1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34

If you want to do an electric fan, then do some additional homework before buying any parts. Some things to consider: Puller or pusher? If pusher then is there room infront of the radiator for it. If puller, is there room for it ( clearance to the water pump/ pulley). How many amps? How will you control it?

Some radiators (70-s/80-s era) had pipe plug holes in the top tank which made it easy to add an on/off thermal switch (just thumb thru the Standard Motor or Napa-Echlin catalog). Wire such a temp switch to a relay & you're "good to go". Otherwise, when I did twin electric pullers on my Dart, the "temp probe in the radiator fin" design & the "slip a thermocouple under the hose" design were what was available - & both stunk. The first was unreliable, second just leaked. Now I've heard there is a hose adapter available to mount the temp switch- cut out a piece of rad hose & install the adapter inline.

Another thing to consider is the charging system- most older mopars had marginal alternators & barely adequate wiring. If you add a heavy load like cooling fan(s), you should research alternator & wiring upgrades in the electrical forum.

_________________
63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Finally rebuilt the carb today and tuned it, it seems to run a lot better and the rebuild kit came with a new accelerator plunger too. I still have stumbling/misses from 500rpm thru 1600rpm... timing is set at 8* seems that the higher the timing the less stumbling, but i still cant completely clear the stumbling up.

Vacuum never seemed to pull anymore than 17-18 either.

I dont know if its normal but it seems that with the idle set at 700-850rpms and i go to put it in gear it drops to almost 500rpms and almost dies.... so when its cold out it used to stumble starting off from a stop, i guess with the carb rebuilt now it should run better ill find out later tonight.

WagonsRcool all good info, Ill be using a good thermostat switch inline with a heater hose for the electric fan temp switch. Plus ill be running relays for my fan and lights and such, ill be upgrading to a 100amp alt in the future also and a battery big enough to jump start a diesel.

Jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Do you spray out the economizer body? or soak it for a while to clean out the emulsion tubes? That is key for good mid range response. Is the idle mixture needle perfect? nice and straight and shiny at the tip? The transition circuit must be super clean so you get a smooth response.

If you run at 10 or 12 degrees initial and it gets better you may want to reset the lash at .012 and .022 for stronger/more torque. The vacuum readings will also be higher.....19" to 20" instead of 17" to 18".

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Do you spray out the economizer body? or soak it for a while to clean out the emulsion tubes? That is key for good mid range response. Is the idle mixture needle perfect? nice and straight and shiny at the tip? The transition circuit must be super clean so you get a smooth response.

If you run at 10 or 12 degrees initial and it gets better you may want to reset the lash at .012 and .022 for stronger/more torque. The vacuum readings will also be higher.....19" to 20" instead of 17" to 18".[/quote]

I thoroughly cleaned the whole carb, it was actually quite clean inside already... i fond VERY little silt on anything. Idle mixture needle was in great shape too. The motor has a smooth response when throttled.... its only when the throttle is SLOWLY raised that it stumbles and pops in the low rpm range.

My mid range is good... just the idle and off idle rpms seem lumpy, i still havent done a proper valve lash adjustment, tomarrow morning i will though.

Thanks
Jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Looks like we have a pretty similar project, keep me updated as you go through your build. What are your plans for your truck as far as engine and suspension go? Are you going to lower it at all? I have some ideas for mine but I want to know what is feasible before I get in too deep.

_________________
1966 Dodge D100 2wd SWB
225 Six Cyl

Hey there, ill do my best to keep this site updated with my progress, im also a member at sweptline.org since i drive a sweptline and they have tons of good truck info over there as well.

My plans are to build another 700+hp cummins and drop it in my swepty, i had a 1992 dodge cummins 4x4 that i built up and ive have the diesel bug ever since lol

The truck is already lowered with dearched leaf springs(not how i would have done it personally) and it rides pretty good, just need new shocks and to play with my steering. Ill post some pics of the truck later today after i adjust my valves.

As far as lowering id check out the sweptline forum they have a huge thread on ways to do it and good info.

Jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Im assuming you have a Carter BBD 2bbl by reading your posts. Good luck on getting things cleared up. Sounds like we have the exact same issue, fresh engines, fresh tune-ups, fresh carbs, etc, etc... Mine has the exact same stumble and no matter what is done it wont go away. All I get for answers are the same you are getting, "check valves", "make sure carb is clean", "set base timing", etc, etc... Nothing makes a difference, working on trying to find info on getting a bigger pump shot or finding larger jets/rods to try and see if the extra fuel cures it. I have tried EVERYTHING that has been mentioned to me or that I have read from other forums, and no luck on getting rid of the stumble. Ive managed to make it "better" but its still there and still irritating!

Changing idle speed, idle mixture, base timing, and all that seems to make a difference at idle, but not so much with the stumble. If you figure it out PLEASE post what you did to cure it for the sake of all of us Carter BBD victims, and if I figure it out I will be sure to post it myself!

Hey there! I unfortunetly have the single barrel carter....but i set the valve lash finally and it was definitely off, intake valves were all loose and the exhaust were all too tight... but unfortunetly my idle to 1500 rpm stumbling still persists and none of my tuning and timing seems to change it.

My theory as of now is possibly my distributor guts and springs are a bit old and crusty???? id like to upgrade to a new electronic distributor and upgraded coil, also update most of the wiring under the hood...(100amp alt, larger charge wire from alt to battery, headlights on relays, better ground wires ect...)

Im wondering if possibly at my idle and low rpms that im not getting enough amps/voltage for the ignition to be efficient until im at a higher rpm where the alternator is supplying better power.... all just speculation right now but with having a freshly rebuilt carb, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, fuel filter, proper timing, valves adjusted properly(intake .012, exhaust .022, these are the truck specs) im still not sure what the issue is......

I also would be curious about larger jets and such... might try spraying fuel into the carb while holding it at the stumbling rpms to see if that makes any difference..

Jason

_________________
1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Before just swapping the distributor for another just take it out, soak it down in some WD-40 and get it nice and clean. Blow it out with a little compressed air to get the excess WD-40 out of it.

I did the same thing and swapped the distributor with a reman, it cured the misfire at idle (shaft was worn and had alot of play), but didnt help with the stumble, and now Im having issues getting the timing right. Cleaning and lubeing is a much cheaper "trial and error" attempt.

As far as upgrading electrical though have at it, even if you dont do the alternator upgrade. I did on mine, stock output alt though, ran 4gauge from alt to batt (60A maxi-fuse at battery), new power and ground cables from batt to engine, new ground from engine to frame, and also ran extra ground wires from the batt to all the factory underhood ground locations. Havnt got around to adding relays to everything yet, but do have HEI. Starts faster, runs smoother, lights are brighter, and holds over 14v at night with lights, heater, and if necessary wipers all on.

Also have an aftermarket stereo, a 2000w amp powering a 12" woofer, and a 1200w amp power mids and highs