Good idea... never even thought bought lubing the distributor. Yeah im sure just upgrading the wiring will help all the accesories alot... but i read up on relays for the headlights and it helps save the headlight switches life, less power being pushed thru it and dodges have always had a weak point with the headlight switches getting hot and then quitting(happened to me in my 92 cummins, lights would just turn off in the middle of driving cause the switch got to hot lol)

Could you post some pics of your system? im curious how you did it. i still have the gas tank behind my seat right now but i plan on putting it under the bed so i can put my system in.

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Here ya go, mines in the back of a wagon so space is a little more available. Ive cleaned up the wiring a little since the pics, and upgraded the mids and highs to pioneers as well

Oh snap, i thought you had a D100 too hahaha, nice setup tho. I plan on just one 10" sub behind my seat and the amp under my passenger side seat, still want a little room behind the seat for my gun

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

I had a stumble while driving as well, seemed fine at idle but at certain rpms it would act up.

Done the HEI upgrade and cured all that drama. I tried carb rebuild, diff carb as well w no luck. Went to new carb and still there. So went to HEI and done. Can't hurt going to HEI anyway, I'd say start there.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

At first the stumbling and such was at idle to 1500rpms... on my drive home tonight it was acting up so bad i thought i was running out of gas, so i filled up and still the whole drive home regardless of rpm it was stumbling, popping and missing...... maybe HEI is coming sooner than i was planning


Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Time for a new condenser to go with the new points. Condensers can take a dump, they don't last forever.....

You may want to upgrade to the HEI some day....

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I would love to convert to HEI, but honestly can spend any more money.... the condensor i believe is new.. or atleast looks new, but ill swap it since i have some spares.

tonight was the same issue, it ran good for about 5miles from work, motor was at operating temp and then it started stumbling and missing again, it was real bad in the 2100-2500rpm range which is my cruise rpms for 60mph.

I noticed my alt meter gauge was bouncing, the lights were dimming at stops more than normal, even with all accessories off the alt gauge was bouncing at idle which isnt normal.

I just went thru the distributor, cleaned it up a bit(already clean, and look like a reman, not orig.) i have two distributors so just for kicks i decided to pull the heavey spring my distributor and put the light spring from the other distributor on it, also used the 11r (thing with the advance slots... ??)

And upgraded to a MSD coil, since my old one decided to be weak and i broke the positive stub terminal off.. oops

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Well i installed a new condensor but the problem is still there. It ust seems to idle rough and stumble around, under acceleration and while cruising, it isnt running smooth at all.

I pulled the plugs to check the color... and they all look clean.. almost as if they are even firing... really odd, no color at all..

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Ballast resistor or coil would be my guess. If points and condensor check out, and both coil and ballast tend to be temperature sensitive when they are failing. Start with ballast (usually only $2-$5 new), then coil if the problem still persists. Also if it has an EGR pull it and check it to make sure its not open, or causing a leak.

I just read you replaced the coil so scratch that. Have you double check the accelerator pump squirt since it has been acting up really bad the last couple days?

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Ill probably replace the resistor just cause, but i have noticed just recently that my fuel filter is totally full(clear filter)... usually its only 1/2-3/4 full while the motor is running or off... but now its so full you can barely see one air bubble.

So i pulled my gas cap and i could hear a sucking sound??? also.. even after this rebuild i still dont think my accelerator pump is pushing enough fuel, if i slowly open the throttle and watch the stream of fuel it doesnt start coming out right away and it kinda dribbles till your halfway then it has a small stream.

No egr stuff on this truck, not even power steering or power brakes

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Its not a bad thing not to have any air bubbles. Most filters should be full when the engine is running. You can check fuel pressure and make sure it is the required 3-4psi. Then double check float level, make sure its not too high and flooding out or too low and leaning out. It should begin squirting into the carb immediately as the throttle begins to open, and should give a heavy spray when given hard throttle not squirt a small stream.

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

You should not be running a resistor if you bought the Pertonix 3 ohm coil, it needs a full 12 volts or more! That is the great feature about it......you can throw away the resistor.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the carb? Maybe under load it drops......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

well the accelerator plunger is new... not sure why its not delivering ample spray..?? the coil is an MSD and requires a .8ohm resistor(picking it up in an hr)

Fuel pressure is strong, so im leaning more towards ignition.... maybe im wrong though.

Any ideas on why the squirter is so weak? and why it doesnt spray correctly? the carb wasnt dirty, the truck never sat for a long time, and in doing the rebuild i cleaned it extremely well, not that there was much to "clean" out.

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

I believe yours is a Holley 1920 right?

Yes, I have experienced that myself.....
On some new gaskets you have to punch a bigger hole for the accelerator pump shot hole. Sometimes the hole is partially covered by the new pump gasket.
I also run a guitar string or piano wire out through squirter hole from the economizer side to be sure there is not corrosion or debris in the carb body. I even drilled mine out to get a bigger pump shot for racing. Make sure the pickup is full size at the bottom of the economizer body. Sometimes that can get plugged up with debris. Also make sure there is no slop in the linkage. I use the outside hole for a maximum shot. Mine will spin both wheels off the line with a 2.76 Sure-Grip rear with 26" tires.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Im definiantly going to look into my carb more its the Carter one barrel though.. feels quite gutless and i have 3.55 gears in my truck.

But i believe i found my issue... sorta.. so ive been having stumbling and popping and surging at all rpms now, under load, cruise, idle and take off.... its horrible and basically undrivable.

My alt gauge is going whacky, and even at cruise rpms itll bounce and cause all electrical accesories to waver lights, heater fan ect....

I installed a MSD coil(since i broke my stocker) and today finally i got teh correct ballast resistor for that coil msd#8214 0.8ohms. Right after i installed the resistor i started the truck and it idled with such a radically lope and popping it sounded like i had a cam and was only firing on 3 cylinders, if i revved it up it just got worse... i mean real bad, sounded like it was so far outa time it was gunna die. reinstalled my stock resistor and drove home.

I fell like installing a new voltage regulator is an order... but would that cause these crazy symptoms?? I have brand new points on the dizzy, and a new condensor, new plugs, rotor, cap, wires, coil..... even a new 60amp alternator

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power