LONG WRITE UP.... SORRY

I decided to start a new thread on tuning my motor, so to catch anyone new to my previous thread up ill list the following things i have done to the truck already.

-new plugs(not the ngk ones, but soon i will swap out for them)
-new wires
-new cap and rotor(with brass inserts)
-new points, gapped at .021
-new condensor
-new MSD coil
-new VR
-new alternator 60amp
-rebuilt the carter BBS
-timing set at 10*
-new fluids and oil

So i went thru and read and watched some videos on rebuilding the carb, trying to better understand what jets and and such work at different rpms.
In watching a video i noticed my carb didnt have the ball bearing retainer(under the accelerator plunger) so i took the carb apart and put that retainer in(it came in my rebuild but the instructions didnt specify where it went and my carb didnt have one anyways.

So my current issue is i believe a LEAN problem..... my motor stumbles and isnt smooth from idle-1700rpm if you slowly rev it up. Also(this is new, after i rebuilt the carb) i now find that 1700-max rpm my motor is missing and stumbling while cruising or under acceleration, the more throttle under load the more stumble.

The reason i believe it is a lean issue is if i put my hand over 3/4 of the carb mouth and slowly rev it up there is NO stumbling like it does without my hand on it. Also my spark plugs show very little burn, almost look clean.

I have a yamaha VMAX and have spent countless hrs tuning the 4 mikuni carbs on it and have become quite good and reading plugs and know when im running lean or rich.

The stumbling i notice in my truck while cruising is similar to the sound of running out of fuel, every stumble or pop i hear is followed with a subtle loss of power.

Ive checked my floats and they are set just a bit higher than spec 1/4" from float bowl ridge, i read in a rebuild thread that setting them a little rich is better since these carbs already run lean.

Ive searched and searched but cant seem to find any info on larger jets... or which jets i should drill out to richen my mixture... any ideas???

Thanks
Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Okay so i actually just found a thread on carter jets and holley jets, im guessing they are interchangable? If this is the case ill have to do some looking and see what jets i have and which jets i should change if need be.

Also i hadnt noticed before but tonight while pulling my carb apart.. i noticed the top section of the carb has the date 1983 on it.. the middle carb section(with the float bowl) has the date 1997 on it... WTF??

Anyone know if this would cause any issues??

Im going to go to a shop tomarrow to see if the shop owner will let me run my truck on his dyno to find out what my AF ratio is. Atleast with that i can find how far off i am and get the proper jets to fix it.

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

No, they use a different metering method, the holley using the screw in orifice style jet for metering, and the carter typically has a larger jet that fits a tapered rod in the middle that meters the fuel by how much the rod is lifted out of the jet. The only exception to the rule is the Holley 2280 that is a replacement for the BBD, it uses a similar method to the carter but the rods and mechanism are not interchangeable.

You may need to adjust the metering rod out a bit so the mains are richer. You might start searching for a Holley 1920 to replace it at some time as well.

-D.Idiot

Well i think i may have found the issue.... started the truck up this morning to find coolant bubbling from multiple spots between the intake and exhaust manifold and head... coolant just dribbled out and bubbled.... either i have a cracked head or a blown hg... but for coolant to be coming out of both exhaust and intake ports im thinking its probably cracked.

I decided to still let the truck warm up and the idle has gotten much worse, it basically idles at 1000k with just a bunch of popping and missing and stumbling going on. Also holding it at any rpm i get lots of popping and stumbling.

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

Typically we don't see cracked heads. but certain studs that hold the manifold to the head need sealant as they have access into the water jacket if not coated with RTV before installing.

Guess we'll see what you find out when you pull the stack.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

1983 and 1997 my carb has those. Does the top of your carb under air cleaner gasket look like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-PLYMOUTH- ... _630wt_880 My carb has that shiny plug.Under that plug is Idle air adjustment screw. Turning clockwise richens idle and off idle circuit [before main jet kicks in].

Well i pulled the intake and exhaust manifold, and all the bolts, im going ot replace them with tempered grade 8 ones, i noticed none of the intake/exhaust bolts had rtv on them either.

I cant afford to pull the head right now, but since my intake and exhaust manifold gasket were shot i figured id replace it and fix the two broken intake bolts i had.

Also i didnt know about the other adjustment screw under that cover on top the carb, ill take a look and see if thatll help tune my low end better.

Im wondering if maybe im wrong about water getting into my intake... atleast i hope i am.

I drove the truck to town yesterday and still have that irratic but constant popping in my exhaust(and you can feel a slight loss of power with every stumble), it just doesnt seem to run smooth......

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

So does your carb have that shiny plug? ok just found your other thread.

You don't need grade 8 bolts!!! Read up on the manifold data in the FAQ and the Factory Service Manual. The manifold bolts are torqued to a very low value,
which I can't recall just now. Cranking them down real tight will likely crack your exhaust manifold. I learned it the hard way, but you don't have to,

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

I didnt get grade 8 bolts so i could torque the snot out of them, i did it because i like to use quality where i can. and the stronger the bolt the better the holding strength, and less likelyt to break when removing them, considering i broke 3 bolts when removing the intake/exhaust. To me its worth the extra cost just to know what i build is going to be strong. Factory specs and hardware arent always the BEST they could have done.

Jason

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1967 Dodge D100 2 wheel drive short bed sweptline, 727 3spd auto 225 leaning tower of power

I misunderstood your purpose for using grade 8 hardware. Buying better quality hardware than the bean counters at the factor certainly won't hurt anything.
Neither will using anti-seize on the studs and bolts. Did the factory use anti-seize?? I'd bet not.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!