Hey All,
Lorrie's NEW Oil Pump has arrived. Carefully opened the box to find that the Gasket in three pieces with a piece missing.

Am going to have to cut a Gasket for it tomorrow morning. BUT, the Pump is the RIGHT one for Lorrie. It's always something.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Friday late afternoon update:

Went to NAPA this morning and got two NEW 1/4" ID Hydraulic Hoses made for the Frantz Oil Cleaner System (FOCS).

Got the Gasket material to make a good Gasket for the Oil Pump.

Upon arriving home Removed the OLD Hoses from the FOCS.

The OLD Hoses were showing signs of wear and cracking, and it was suspected that maybe the Return Hose FROM the FOCS TO the Oil Pan was somehow clogged. As it turned out, it wasn't.

All of the fittings were fine.

The Hollow Self Tapping Bolt into the Oil Pan was not clogged, though when the Return Hose was removed, there was not much Oil came out.

Have completely uninstalled the FOCS.

Then the thought occurred to me that it was strange that not much Oil came out of the Hollow Self Tapping Bolt. Tapping on the Oil Pan sounded like it was empty. Got out a big porcelain Kettle and Drained the Oil out of the Engine. Six Quarts came out, and it was BLACK, though the oil on the Dip Stick is perfectly clear and clean.

Am sitting here puzzling over this, and here is what I suspect has happened: When Lorrie sat for sixteen years without moving, somehow the oil created a sediment in the Oil Pan. Then the day before last Christmas, Lorrie's Rear U-Joint Failed. There was a helluva vibration before we got stopped. Am thinking that the vibration roiled up the sediment and the Oil Pump pumped it through Lorrie's Lubrication System. If this is what happened, could it have ruined Lorrie's might 225 Slant Six? Am having a really sick feeling about this.

Had drained Lorrie's OLD Oil last week and put in NEW Oil and as mentioned previously, what was showing on the Dip Stick is nice and clean, but what came out when the Oil was drained this afternoon looked really mucky.

Am thinking of dropping the Oil Pan to see what is going on in there. It would be simple to do as there is nothing in the way. It would be but a matter of taking out the bolts and dropping the Pan.

Would like some input on this.

What do you think?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
If the Oil Pan were removed from Lorrie's Engine, could the Pan Gasket be reused or would we have to get a new one?

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

A new gasket set plus a tube of Ultra black caulk. Don't use black silicone!

Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance Gasket Maker - 3 Oz. Tube 4.99

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I am surprised the oil didn't turn to asphalt! or back into crude.
If the oil feels kind of gritty.....then you will want to do a good flush and change oil and filters soon. You could use some recycled oil for the flush.
Check that pick up screen.....you may need to back flush it while the pump is off.

Well at least you get the oil changed now.....!
I always use a good WIX 1806 none bleached cotton filter.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I don't think you have ruined the engine, but I would pull the pan, clean it all out, clean the pick up, and do as Ted says and run the engine with new oil and change it again right away with a new filter. Look into using a cleaning, engine flush kind of oil. I have run transmission fluid for 15 minutes in the past, and then drained and refilled. . This stuff work wonders to clean out the varnish and muck. It will unstick rings also. You might want to get others opinions on what is the best, state-of-the-art engine flush these days. There is probably something better than tranny fluid but I have used it in the past with good results.

This sediment comes from using certain oils. My understanding is that if oil does not look dirty after it is run awhile, it is because the carbon is settling out and down into the pan. Either run good synthetic, or real dyno oil such as Valvoline.

Sam

_________________

Hey Mr. AT,
Will order the NEW Gasket today.
Will see if this is available. If it is will get it. If not, who knows what will be used.

Just went and checked what is already here. There is a tube of Permatex 80009 Form-A-Gasket Sealant on hand. It says it is a "non-hardening pliable sealant".

Anyway, thanks for the implied confirmation that the Oil Pan needs to be pulled. Am hoping that we haven't ruined the Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

Hang in there.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. AT,
It may have!
No grit that is detectable by feeling it between one's thumb and forefinger. And last evening something occurred to me. The Oil looked nice on the Dip Stick, but what was drained out looked REALLY yukky. So went out and pulled Lorrie's Dip Stick and put it into the Oil that was drained out, to see how it looked. It looked good! So maybe the Oil that drained out wasn't REALLY all that yukky.
Will put in NEW Oil when everything is ready. And as for filtration, as has been mentioned previously, Lorrie is running a Frantz Oil Cleaner System. And it is being refurbished. Removed the entire System yesterday and have had NEW Hydraulic Hoses made as the OLD Hydraulic Hoses were thirty-nine years old. It was time to change them out. Am not quite sure how to do a "flush". Would you care to elucidate?
Are you referring to "reclaimed" Oil when you say "recycled"?
The NEW Oil Pump is here on the Bench. Will, of course completely clean the Pick Up Tube. Is there anything special I should know about doing THAT?
That will happen. NEW 10W30 Valvoline Oil will be put in after everything is ready. Lorrie will have: A NEW Oil Pressure Gauge; NEW Oil Pump; NEWLY refurbished Frantz Oil Cleaning System; NEW Hydraulic Hoses; NEWLY cleaned Oil Pan; NEWLY cleaned Oil Pick Up Tube and Screen; and NEW Oil Pan Gasket.
Are you aware of what the Frantz Oil Cleaning System is? I won't go into it at this time, but if you aren't aware of it, will give you a description of what it is. Or you could Google it. The Frantz Oil Filtering Element has 10,000 times the filtration of a regular Oil Filter. No, HONEST!

Anyway, am having a strangely enthusiastic feeling about pulling Lorrie's Oil Pan. Am actually looking forward to doing it. With everything that is planned, this hopefully will make Lorrie VERY happy. And when Lorrie is happy, I'm happy!

Hope this find YOU doing well.

JC.

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. SP,
I hope you're right. And am going with the entire "Ted Program".
What is an "cleaning, engine flush kind of oil"?
Am apprehensive about using straight ATF. Maybe a 50/50 mix of ATF and 10W30?
Hopefully "others" will make some recommendations. Anyone?
And there is a goodly supply of ATF here already.
Have always used Valvoline 10W30 in Lorrie.
And THAT is what I suspect happened when Lorrie sat between 1996 and 2012. And it is suspected that the shaking that Lorrie took when her U-Joint failed the day before last Christmas roiled up the carbon sediment in the Oil Pan and THAT is what caused the present condition.

The carbon in the oil, while yukky wouldn't be like grit that would ruin the Rod Bearings. Carbon is actually very soft from what I understand. Graphite is used for lubrication.

Am hoping it has not clogged the Oil Passages.

Lorrie has Solid Lifters, so am not worried that the carbon would have messed up any Hydraulic Lifters.
Valvoline is what Lorrie has always used since she came to live with me in 1975.

Anyway, have a supply of NEW Gasket material for the NEW Oil Pump. When the Oil Pump got here, the Gasket that came with it was toast. Am going to be cutting a NEW Gasket this morning.

Still have to clean up the Frantz Oil Cleaning System components: The Oil Pump Adapter and all the Fittings that go on the Oil Pump. Then it will be on to removing Lorrie's Oil Pan.

Am hoping that doing everything planned will fix Lorrie's Oil Pressure problem.

Will just have to wait and see.
What will be will be.
Time will tell.
Be well.
JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

I've been reading the latest Lorrie story with great interest,to be honest I really don't think you have a thing to worry about regarding engine condition,but I guess for your own peace of mind you need to do what makes you comfortable It's a 25000 mile engine right? You've always changed the oil,OK,it sat for years,but its had oil changes and been run since then. IF I was in your position I'd look at it this way,
it was running fine until the uni joint broke and everything got shaken up pretty bad,including an old sticky oil pressure gauge that now reads something different,I put a new gauge on and oil press within limits,that's good.
The car runs different now and has unusual shudders,shakes,and "drags" I think I read? This isn't bearing related,if it had a bearing problem you'd have very low oil press at idle,you don't,also there would be metal in the oil filter....have you inspected the filter for metal? I installed bearings for a living in the aircraft industry on and off for 20 years,I know a thing or two about bearing crush,you don't need to worry about it in your engine.
You pulled the oil pump due to your concern,have you stripped it and inspected it? Has it had metal or crap through it? Old parts can tell you a very valuable story about and engine! I have never fitted an aftermarket pump to a slant six in my life ( the oil pumps are different in Australia so its a matter of using old rebuilt pumps) ,but from what others have mentioned you are putting yourself at risk of busting up a beautiful relationship between the old oil pump gear and your cam,they are happy,now your introducing another party into the relationship!! By the sounds of it,the new members can be real trouble makers,sure,it sounds attractive at the time,but at what cost? You could lose your cam,gone for ever,taken from a happy relationship,destroyed by a "good idea at the time" and then thrown in the trash when that troublemaking new pump has finished with it!! If however the oil pump is the equivalent of a millionaire supermodel of oil pumps your cam may be happy.....very happy! but its a risk. Basically,look at your old pump,if its good,use it and and reduce a risk,give it a make over and your cam will be very happy!! You may be creating your own problems by fitting the new pump.
You've satisfied yourself that the oil on the dipstick looked ok,sure the oil you drained looked dirty,if you really really want to pull the sump,go for it,it's a gasket and your time,it won't have inches of crap in it,but you can't do any harm either.
I'm not familiar with your oil filter system,sure,it may filter oil to a state that's more pure than Bambi's urine,but does your engine need the added length of hoses and a possible restriction of an ultra fine filter? Can if flow as much oil as your engine needs? Remember that a good quality spin on filter and an engine built and maintained correctly will last for hundreds of thousands of miles,assuming your oil pressure gauge was accurate(which it wasn't) have you considered the oils filter may be clogged and acting as a restriction?
So what's all the strange sounds and shakes? Is the driveshaft a two piece splined setup with a Center bearing or just a conventional setup? If its a two piece design did you fit the splines together so the front and rear joints are lined up correctly? Did you get the shaft checked for bends after it got whipped about and tossed onto the road?
If I really wanted to pull a sump off I'd probably be pulling the trans pan and having a good look,clean the filter and give it a good service.
If things are concerning you I understand you need to do what puts your mind at ease and wish you well in your tasks ,we all have concerns about our own cars and projects and deem what we think is the best way to take on a task,all I'm doing is airing my thoughts and concerns and trying to give you another point of view,good luck with Lorrie and regaining peace of mind with her reliability.

Here's another thought.


Maybe the oil pressure relief valve was sticky before the driveshaft vibration.


This caused the pressure to be high (55)


Then the vibration made the pressure relief valve unstick and it's been correct since then..........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Hey Mr. SS,
Am hoping that you're right about not worrying regarding Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine. With each step in the process going well, am feeling a bit more confidence that everything is going to be alright. Am feeling more comfortable knowing that each thing is being done correctly.
Yes.
Well Mr SS, what I'm about to tell you is might make you go into paroxysms of negativity. It had that effect on one of our resident gurus here (SlantSixDan) to the point to where he no longer responds to any of my posts. But you wouldn't respect me were I not truthful and forthright with you so I'm going to tell you the straight skinny, and we'll take it from there. The TRVTH is that Lorrie's Oil had not been changed since it was put in NEW when it the mighty 225 Slant Six Engine was rebuilt in 1985!

But before you condemn that, permit me to explain why that is.

Am going to ask you to keep an open mind concerning this explanation. If after reading the explanation you are not persuaded then you may wreak whatever havoc on me that you feel is necessary and fitting. Alright?

As you have read in this thread, Lorrie has a Frantz Oil Cleaner System (FOCS) installed.

My father was a Frantz Oil Cleaner Distributor and when Lorrie came to live with me in 1975, he installed a FOCS on her mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

The standard operating procedure regarding the FOCS is that one needs not change the oil as long as the FOCS Filter Element is changed regularly (every 2,000 miles), which HAS been done with Lorrie.

It is a widely held paradigm that one MUST change an Engine's Oil because it "wears" out. But according to the FOC information, that is not exactly true. In fact, the FOC information on this subject, says that OLD oil is better at lubricating an Engine as long as it contains no pollutants and dilutants because it is "softer" due to the polymer chains being broken.

This concept is somewhat controversial. It is accepted in some sectors of the automotive world and flatly rejected in other sectors. But the proof is in results.

What has happened to Lorrie Engine is NOT the result of her not having had her Oil changed, but it is due to the extenuating circumstance of having sat without being used for sixteen years between 1996 and 2012.

With that said, permit me to describe the FOCS: It is a bypass filtering system much akin to the method used to "reclaim" Oil, which is a process that removes ALL the pollutants (little chunks of stuff such as metal, dust and etc.) and ALL the dilutants (moisture), by a rigorous filtering of the Oil. Doing this leaves one with perfectly good Oil.

The contention that Oil "wears out" is attributed to the heat and pressures it experiences in an Engine. BUT, if heat and pressure "wears out" Oil, how come it didn't wear out when it was being made? It had endured millions of years of heat and pressure in its formation.

Another contention about what it means to "wear out" the Oil is that the additives put into it by the manufacturers become depleted.

The installation of the FOCS is a follows: An Adapter Plate is installed where normally the standard pleated-paper Oil Filter goes.

From that Adapter, a 1/4" Hydraulic Hose goes to the INLET of the FOCS.

The Oil that would normally go through the standard Oil Filter goes through that Hydraulic Hose to the FOCS, where iIt is forced by the Oil Pressure from the Oil Pump through the FOCS Filter Element which removes ALL the pollutants and ALL the dilutants from it, after which it is returned to the Engine's Oil Pan via another Hydraulic Hose.

The FOCS Filter Element has 10,000 times the filtration power of the pleated-paper filtering element in a standard Oil Filter. FOCS supplies these Filter Elements, or you can get them at your local Supermarket.

When my father installed the FOCS on Lorrie's Engine, he gave me a case of these Filtering Elements. The brand of Filtering Elements that have been being used on Lorrie and Ms. American 3.14159 is a roll of Safeway Truely Fine two-ply, facial-quality bathroom tissue paper! You may refer to this as toilet paper.

It is the property of a roll of tissue paper that no chunks of anything is able to work its way through that kind of filtration density.

Also if you dip a roll of toilet paper into a bucket of Oil, it will soak up the Oil. If you then dip it into a bucket of water, the water will displace the Oil. If you then dip it back into the Oil, the Oil will NOT displace the water. So in effect, the dilutants which under heat and pressure in the hydrocarbon environment of an engine turn into hydrochloric and sulfuric acids are removed from the Oil.

So essentially what one has is a "reclaiming" system fitted to one's Engine.

As to the results of this let me illustrate the efficacy of it by way of an anecdote: When Ms. American 3.14159's Engine was rebuilt in 1989 it had 167,866 miles on it. We pulled the Engine and mounted it on an Engine Stand. I proceeded to remove the Valve Covers and the Oil Pan. The mechanics at the shop where I was doing the rebuilt looked at the Valve Train and the Crankshaft and said: "This Engine has just been rebuilt!" It was perfectly clean! There was NEW Oil put into Ms. American's Engine at that time and has not been changed since. The last time her Valves were adjusted, the Valve Train was perfectly clean. No sludge, no build-up of any kind. The same was true of Lorrie's Valve Train when her Valve Cover was last taken off.

Anyway, think what you may about the FOCS. The fact is that it is a much more efficient system of Oil Filtration than the standard pleated-paper Oil Filter.
Lorrie has a brand NEW Stewart Warner Oil Pressure Gauge too. It also shows that the Oil Pressure is 40 PSI at speed and at idle.
I'm very used to how Lorrie "feels" when I drive her. She "feels" different since the U-Joint failure and the advent of low Oil Pressure.
Yes. There was absolutely no metal on the top of the Filter Element which there would be if there was any in the Oil.
Am VERY happy to hear someone who knows about such things give me a reassurance on that count.
No. But I have hand spun it and it seems to be smooth and tight. Am not convinced that the problem is the Oil Pump, but it was the next thing in the line in the quest for the reason for the reduction in Oil Pressure that Lorrie's Oil Pressure Gauges are reporting.
Not that I can tell. Again, it is smooth and tight.
I feel the same way about this, what am I to do? What if the OLD Oil Pump isn't putting out the pressure? What if it has just worn past being able to do the job. The only way that I can tell is by putting a NEW Oil Pump on it. BTW, this is not a rebuilt/remanufactured Pump. It is an American made unit and seems to be really well made. The casting is good, it is tight and smooth. How about this idea: If once it is installed and it too puts out only 40 PSI then we will know that the problem lies elsewhere. I will pull the NEW Pump and reinstall the OLD Pump to maintain the relationship between it and the Cam.
It's hard to know what the best thing to do is. I just this morning finished cutting a NEW Gasket for the NEW Oil Pump. It is all ready to install. Am going to drop the Oil Pan and if there is anything revealed that can be definitively construed as being the culprit that is lowering the Oil Pressure, will reinstall the OLD Pump.
Someone mentioned that the carbon in the Oil might have settled out of it during Lorrie's sixteen year long coma. Am thinking that THAT is what has happened, and THAT is the reason for dropping the Oil Pan.
Actually, the FOCS has been on Lorrie, and trouble free, for thirty-nine years.
It is a by-pass system. It doesn't restrict the flow of the Oil in any way.
The ENTIRE FOCS was removed yesterday and it is in perfect working order. No clogging, no restrictions. Am installing NEW Hydraulic Hoses because the OLD thirty-nine year old hoses were showing signs of wear and cracking. When they were removed, they were not clogged.
Actually, there aren't any "sounds and shakes". What is wrong is a combination of the low Oil Pressure on two Stewart Warner Oil Pressure Gauges and a "different feel" when driving Lorrie.
No.
Yes.
Not applicable.
Actually it didn't get "whipped about and tossed". It started vibrating and immediately pulled over and stopped. I got out and looked under Lorrie and could see nothing amiss. I thought that maybe one of the Tires was coming apart. Not seeing anything amiss, I got back into Lorrie and put the transmission in Drive, and there was a clunk and then nothing. I thought then that the Transmission had failed. I got out and looked under Lorrie again, and the Drive Shaft was lying on the pavement.
May end up doing that, but right now am just wanting to get Lorrie back up and running.
I want to thank you for you VERY nice response. It is greatly appreciated. After reading about the FOCS, I'd very much like to get your reaction to it. There is a lot of FOCS information on the Internet both pro and con. A search will turn up all kinds of opinions. I happen to really like the FOCS, but that's just me.

Hope this finds YOU doing well, and thanks again for the VERY thoughtful response.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. E,
When I pulled Lorrie's Oil Pressure Relief Valve, it was in perfect working order. The bore was smooth, and the Shuttle and Spring were clean. Don't think that it was sticking at all.
The Oil Pressure has ALWAYS been at 55 PSI at speed ever since the Engine was rebuilt. Before that I don't know what it was because the Stock Instrument Panel had an idiot light for the Oil Pressure. The SW Oil Pressure Gauge was installed when the Engine was rebuilt. As mentioned, it has ALWAYS been at 55 PSI since then.
Can't say for sure that this is what happened, but I doubt it.

Anyway, am going to call the NAPA Auto Parts Store and order a NEW Oil Pan Gasket. Will keep you all updated as events occur.

Hope this finds YOU doing well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

You will be just fine, trust me... I am one of those unlucky ones with mine and had the oil pump gear shatter on me (pump froze solid), lost all oil pressure, still drove it another 50-100 feet to get off the road. Towed it home, pulled the dizzy to look inside and sure enough no gear on the pump... Drained the oil, a bunch of crumbs came out, but still not sure if it all did. Changed the pump (high volume melling) and put fresh oil and new filter on. Been driving since september of 2012 with no issues, no wiered noises, no wierd running issues and maintanes a constant 50 psi of oil running Royal Purple HPS 10/40 synthetic...

If mine did what it did and pulled through and is still running strong, you have nothing to worry about having such a slight change in oil pressure. Just wanted to share the story with you and hope it helps put you at ease P.S. for some reason when I did run the valvoline oil after the rebuild, my oil seemed to get dirty extremely fast! However it was their VR1 30wt racing oil so the detergent package in it may not have been as strong as anormal street oil.

However I dont completely agree with your statement that oil never goes bad with this super filtration system youve had on since the 80s.... Simply yes it does, molecules break down, viscosity and sheer strength is compromised, and the cleaning package that lifts and carries those impurities out of your engine into the filter becomes depleted and no longer active... And utilizing a sock style filter is really old out dated approach to filtration, especially after you admitting your using T.P. as a replacable filter... Toilet paper is designed to break down and seperate so it is sewage and septic safe, not to be used and re-used as any type of filter! It will become soggy, clogged, break down and contaminate the oil being returned to the engine from the FOCS system...

Plain and simple, the absolute best filtration system you can use is maintaning clean, fresh oil in the crankcase and a high quality glass media filter wich is changed frequently... With the advancements in modern oils it is not unheard of to change the oil for every 2 filters, however I still strongly DO NOT recommend that either... Good oil, good filter, and a properly tuned/running engine will yield years and thousands of miles of reliable transportation, with a very happy and very clean engine...

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Yes, unfortunately......I have a uncle who was a mechanic put one on and ruined his beautiful 57 Chev 283 engine. It was sad......toilet paper for filter has bleach in it to make it white. The bleach and water/moisture creates hydrochloric acid which eats the metal bearings, etc...in the engine and also breaks down the oil quicker. He was always so proud of the filter and would show us (Dad and I) his oil. It took a few years before rods were knocking. Then one day he through a rod.....sad. When I took power mechanics in college, 2 years of it at Western Washington State.....they taught us about this lesson in my first year. That is why I said I only use un-bleached cotton filters (Wix 1806) for the SL6. No bleach in the filter media! I still remember my professor harping on this point.....You will notice most diesels on the road use WIX filters and most NASCAR teams and most Marine engines.

Kudos on the Valvoline. To do a safe flush just use the bulk version like you get a WalMart in the big jug for $12.00. It is cheap! Do a flush with it like what you do on a engine break-in then dump it. I use Valvoline for my flushes and then back to Mobil 1. Mobile 1 is a great engine cleaner....My barn find engine (sat under a pile of hay for 10 years, it had a 180,000 on it when it was pulled) is shot and nearing 300,000 miles now. I have been driving it daily for the last 5 years or so....I drive a lot! It still get 22.4 mpg on a bad day local commutes on up to 24 mpg on trips over the mountains.

The bottom of your pan may be plenty gritty and have some sludge build up......

If you really are going to install that new oil pump load it with Vaseline first to help prime it. Put some grease on that drive gear too....I hate to see it rebel/gaul with the cam shaft.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG