Hey Rod,
Found them. Read a few of them. GREAT information.

Because of the "Texas Blue Norther" that came through last night, am going to bet that all that gets done here today is that three pieces of the Dodge 225 Slant Six Oil Pan Gasket Set will get installed on the NEWLY cleaned, stripped, and painted Oil Pan.

The LARGE rubber piece in the Gasket Set has to be installed on the Engine, as it has the Rubber Inserts that go through the Holes in the Front Gasket Flange. The OTHER rubber piece in the Set has the same Rubber Inserts but they go through the holes in the Oil Pan.

The article by Mr. Dutra shows the Cork Gasket Runners getting adhered to the Engine's Oil Pan Gasket Flanges with the Engine up-side-down on a Stand, where the Cork Gasket Runners lie easily on the Engine. The ones in THIS Gasket Set are going to get adhered to the Oil Pan Gasket Flanges.

All of this can be done indoors where it's relatively warm compared to the 24 degrees outside.

Anyway, thanks for the guidance to the "Articles".

Hope YOU are warm and comfy.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Yup ! It is summer here and today a nice warm rain of just under an inch.
27/28C (about 80F). Warming up for the weekend with a day or 3 next week of 40C (102F).
I like summer.

regards,Rod

Hey Rod,
Didn't notice that you were down under.
Well, it's 27 degrees F, and we had the heaviest snowfall here that I've ever seen in the area. About 4" deep and EVERYWHERE. I've lived here since 1990 and it's snowed once before, but it didn't stick. It'd hit the ground and melt. This is a big, thick blanket of white on EVERYTHING.
Summer here in Deep East Texas gets up to 110 degrees F. And with the moisture coming up from the Gulf of Mexico, we sometimes have 100% humidity at 100 degrees F. That's just miserable.

Anyway, am nice and warm in the room where the Computer is. Am going to be working on installing the Oil Pan Gaskets in a bit, but am probably not going to be going outside today.

Stay cool.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

northeast Pa. been below zero nights and single digit highs..... ground covered with small amount of snow

Hey Mr. H,
You guys up there in the "upper tier" of states have REALLY been getting blasted this year. You know that it's got to be tough if we down here at the "bottom" of the USA are getting snow. There's about 4" to 6" out in the open, and some places are drifted to a couple of feet thick. And it just powder. It doesn't stick on the pavements (blacktop OR cement). But on the grass and on the soil, it is going to be there till the sun comes out tomorrow. It's a heavy overcast here.

Nonetheless, have gotten the Rear and the two Sides of the Oil Pan with the Oil Pan Gaskets installed. Getting everything just right is an ordeal. And the Front Gasket gets installed on the Front of the Engine instead of on the Oil Pan. Getting the little rubber "tits" to go all the way in is going to be a booger. It was hard to do the Rear Gasket with the Oil Pan here on the Bench.

Used a pair of "Kelly" Hemostats to grip the little "tits" and tug them through the holes in the Oil Pan's Gasket Flange. Had put a smudge of Vasoline on each of them hoping that THAT would make them install easier. Am assuming that it did help because they went in as advertised.

There were some teenincy gaps near the ends of the Rear Gasket. Used four "C" Clamps and drew the Gasket down against the Flange. It will take twenty-four hours for the Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket Maker to cure.

Have put a Bolt in each hole to make sure that the Gaskets are in the proper position.

Weather here tomorrow is supposed to be in the mid sixties, and in the high sixties on Sunday. Am going to be trying to install the Oil Pan tomorrow and Sunday. Hopefully, Lorrie will be back up and running before Monday.

There's a lot of details to take care of after the Oil Pan is installed:
Install the Drain Plug in the Oil Pan.
Install the Engine to Transmission Brace.
Install the Frantz Oil Cleaner System.
Install NEW Hydraulic Hose to the Oil Pan.
Install NEW Hydraulic Hose to the Oil Pump.
Hook up the Oil Pressure Gauge Line to the Oil Pump.
Reinstall the Dip Stick.
Put in four quarts of Valvoline 10W30 Motor Oil.
Prime the Oil Pump through the Frantz System's Feed Line with a fifth quart of 10W30 Motor Oil.
Install a NEW Filter Element in the Frantz Canister.
Install the Fan Belt and adjust the Tension.
Install the Valve Cover.
Reattach the Vacuum Hose to the Carburetor.
Reattach the PCV to the Valve Cover.

Can't think of anything else that needs to be done.

Will check everything over and if it is all copacetic, will see if Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine will start.

Hopefully she will be putting up 55 PSI on the NEW Oil Gauge.

Will update you all when progress occurs.

Stay cool if it's hot where you are. And stay warm if it's cold where you are. If it's Goldilocks weather where you are, thank your lucky stars!

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
GOT A QUESTION THAT NEEDS AN ANSWER BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE:

How does the Oil that gets pumped up to the Valve Train return to the Oil Pan?

The reason that this is asked is that there is some amount of evidence that the Valve Cover is holding Oil. And while it eventually empties, there are some traces of Oil around the Bolts that hold the Valve Cover in place. There is also a Bolt head with a recess in it that has Oil in the recess which would indicate that the Oil is reaching a level at least as high as the top of that recessed Bolt Head.

If there is a passage from the Valve Train area under the Valve Cover, it would most likely be at the back of the Engine as the Engine is lower at the back than at the front. And if there IS a passage there, it could be partially blocked.

If there is INDEED an Oil Passage there, and if it is INDEED partially blocked, is there a way to clean it, like maybe running a straightened out coat hanger down through it?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Any responses would be GREATLY appreciated.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Just went out and looked at the Valve Train Area on Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine. Can see that the Oil that gets pumped up inside the Valve Cover would go back down past the Drool Tubes, past the Push Rods, and onto the top of the Lifters. If that area is getting filled up with Oil, that would be a goodly amount of Oil and could possibly make the level in the Oil Pan low enough that the Oil Pump Pick Up Tube would be sucking some amount of air which would account for the lower Oil Pressure.

Am having some amount of paranoia about this.

It MIGHT not be happening. BUT just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean that it's NOT happening.

So IF perchance that area (where the Drool Tubes, Push Rods and Lifter Tops are) has Oil in it: HOW DOES THE OIL GET FROM THERE BACK TO THE OIL PAN? Does it just go past the Lifters? Or is there a passage through which it flows?

Anyway, there is still patches of snow here and there outside and the thermometer says that it is 28 degrees F out there. The skies are perfectly clear and the Sun is ascending, and will melt the snow pretty quickly once it get up above the trees. It's going to be a GORGEOUS, crisp, day. Am going to go work on Lorrie in another couple of hours. The temperature is supposed to get up into the low 60s and that nice weather is predicted to hang around till next Friday.

Hope you all are doing well.

JC.

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

28 degrees here too! It looks like it snowed the frost is so thick!

It drips back down around through the holes near the lifter bores. Doc has posted may pictures of the block upside down.

There is a good shot here under Engine Block Oil System Prep in the FAQ section. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

also TerryLittleJohn posted some awesome shots of the oiling system in action and an actual video.

There are some great shots under the Best of Doctor Dodge, Twin#2 also....lots of good photos through out his section.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27439

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hey Mr. AT,
Lorrie has a 3" thick layer of snow on her roof, but the sun has just gotten to it and it will be gone in an hour or so. It just feels SO cold out there. Am almost dreading going out. But go out I must.
Looked at them. Am going to look down there with a flashlight to see if any of them are restricted.
Am going to go back over this link carefully. It needs understanding.
Alas, my old computer and DSL connection won't do videos.
Will go over this link carefully also.

Anyway, thanks for the prompt response. Am feeling a bit more at ease with this.

Will let you know how it goes.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Got the Front Gasket installed on the front of Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine. It was a booger to get on but it got done nonetheless. Think it will be just fine. The Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker used to adhere it to the Oil Pan Front Gasket Flange needs twenty-four hours to cure. Will be putting the Oil Pan on tomorrow at about 11:00 a.m. when it is warm enough to be out with Lorrie.

Got the Frantz Oil Cleaner System reinstalled and the NEW Hydraulic Hose from the Oil Pump attached to the Oil Pump.

Got the Oil Pressure Gauge Line connected to the Oil Pump.

Everything is going along quite nicely.

Stay comfy everyone.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

If the pump was sucking air the oil would be aerated and would be frothy when viewed on the dipstick,conventional slipper bearings wouldn't lubricate too well with air either,they would have failed by now. if you were running a season of pro level drag racing at 8000+ Rpm I believe some engines like the Ford Cleveland did suffer from a problem like this.but only for about 2 seconds till they blew, the slant six has a whole different set up...There is not that much oil that flows to the top end, its not full flow or full oil pressure. After saying all that,if you defied gravity and ended up with all that oil sitting in your top end i would imagine the pcv valve would be enjoying a great drink of oil and you have a bit of a smoking problem,oil would be probably pouring out past the seals of the drool tubes and your oil pressure wouldn't be a bit low and steady,it would be surging badly as it starved of oil and then sucked oil again as the oil eventually returned to the sump......you WILL however normally see evidence of oil all over the top end,it splashes everywhere,run the engine at normal driving rpm for 5 minutes without the valve cover on and see where the oil goes....everywhere! ...You have nothing to worry about, the oil pressure is fine,you had an inaccurate old gage that got shaken up and became even more inaccurate ,the new gage of course read a different pressure because it works correctly and doesn't stick,put it back together

Hey Mr. SS,
The Oil on the Dip Stick was NOT frothy, BUT it WAS half way up the Dip Stick.

What made me ask was that there was evidence of Oil on the outside flange of the Valve Cover when It was removed. Oil had gotten out where the Valve Cover Bolts were.

Am still in the process of making postulations on what caused the Low Oil Pressure Readings.
Can imagine that the Bearings wouldn't do well on a mixture of a little Oil and a LOT of air, but had no idea how long it would take the Bearings to finally give up the ghost.
Lorrie will never see eight grand! Not even in Neutral with the Acceleration Pedal floor-boarded.
Lorrie NEVER smokes. Not even a little bit.
Alright. Can rule out oil getting captured above the Lifters at the bottom and the Valve Cover at the top.

Tried to see the drain holes next to the Lifter Bores, but couldn't. There is just too much stuff in the way.
The last time that the Valves were adjusted, it was done with the Valve Cover off and the Engine running. There wasn't any oil being slung around, but there was a steady, albeit slow flow of Oil that came out of the Rocker Arm Tips and from under the Rocker Arm Bearing surfaces.
No it didn't! It too read 40 PSI just like the OLD "sticky" gauge.
It not sticking is the only difference between the OLD and the NEW.
The Oil Pan Goes on tomorrow before noon.

A while back I commented that the Rods move longitudinally about 1/64" on the Crank Journals . Is that OK? Is 1/64th of an inch within limits?

Was looking at the OLD Oil Pump and am not sure I understand how it does what it does. Am not sure where the Oil goes INTO the Pump and where it comes OUT of the pump to the Engine. Can see where the Oil comes out of the Pump to the Frantz Oil Cleaner, and where the Oil comes from to pressure up the Oil Pressure Gauge.

There are two ports on the Oil Pump. One is a rectangle, somewhat longer than it is wide. Then there is a smaller more squarish port.

Which one is the one that the Oil Pump Pick Up Tube supplies? And the other one will be the one that sends Oil to the Crankshaft and Rod Bearings.

The more that I think about it, it seems to me that with the Engine running, that the Oil going to the Frantz Oil Cleaner would be being sent at the same pressure that the Oil Pressure Gauge is seeing because they are both share the same common chamber where the Oil Pump is producing flow. But the last time that Lorrie was running, the FOCS didn't get hot, indicating that Oil was not being sent to it. The OLD Hydraulic Hoses were not clogged. It had a NEW Filter Element in it. The Oil Pressure Gauge showed 40 PSI, but Oil was not flowing through the FOCS.

If the problem is too much clearance in the Crankshaft and Rod Bearings then both the FOCS and the Oil Pressure Gauge will be seeing the same Oil Pressure as the Crankshaft and Rod Bearings are seeing (e.g 40 PSI).

If on the other hand, the OLD Oil Pump is worn out and is actually not producing enough flow for the Crankshaft and Rod Bearings to resist to bring the Oil Pressure up, then the NEW Oil Pump should be able to flow enough to produce 55 PSI.

Will have to wait and see.
What will be will be.
Time will tell.
Be well.
JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

IF you had a bearing clearance issue your oil pressure would be low at idle and rise with rpm,your was very constant,Im talking with the NEW gage.You would also likely have metal in the filter,which you don't. The side play in the rods is pretty normal and not adjustable,nor is it causing you any issue. Oil leaking out around the rocker cover gasket is a normal issue,make sure the cover gasket face is flat (its only sheetmetal so it distorts but can be tapped flat with a small hammer) and put some kind of sealant on the gasket and you won't have an issue,some people don't like using sealant so you can remove the cover to adjust the rockers,that's an individual choice I guess. There's an old saying regarding large radial aircraft engines,basically if it isn't leaking somewhere it probably means there no oil left in it! Old car engines can be like that too, a new gasket will help.
The oil pump can be visually inspected after the cover is removed and the round rotor taken out,if there is any scoring it indicates contaminates May have gone through your engine,the manual would no doubt describe better than I can how to measure the clearances in it. Considering you have good solid pressure at idle it would indicate its fine, I would have used it again in a heartbeat if it checked out ok. Theres an old saying...." A good engineer can do for 10 cents what anyone can do for a dollar"
Always try and work to that and you will save a lot of money and learn a lot.

Hey Mr. SS,
Hadn't thought of THAT. You're right, of course. So THAT sets my mind at ease on that account.
Well, once past the "sticking" of the OLD Oil Pressure Gauge at 28 PSI (until tapped), even the OLD Oil pressure Gauge show the Oil Pressure to be a constant 40 PSI at idle or revved up.
Right.
Just noticed that when I was messing around with the Rotating Assembly. Tried to see if there was any "up&down" movement of the Rods. There was absolutely none which bears out what you say about there being no appreciable Bearing wear.
The Oil that was around the Valve Cover Bolts was just a "smudge". The Flange of the Valve Cover is as flat as it's ever going to get. So all is well there.
This Valve Cover has been on and off of Lorrie's might 225 Slant Six Engine multiple times. And will probably be on and off many more times. The leaking is not presenting any problems. Am thinking that if it starts leaking badly, then will use some Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket maker, but until then, will just let it ride.
Have always LIKED the look of those BIG radial Engines. Saw them referred to as "corn cobs". When I was a kid, MANY years ago, was into model airplanes. Built a model of a "Spad". The Spad was a WWI bi-plane with a Radial Engine, but it was somewhat different in that the Crank Shaft was connected to the Air Frame, and the Propeller was attached to the Engine, and the Engine rotated when it was running!
Am thinking of ordering a NEW Valve Cover Gasket just to have on hand in case the leaking gets to be egregious.
As soon as Lorrie is back up and running, am going to do the autopsy of the OLD Oil Pump just to see if I can understand what is going on with it.
Will look that up to see. Don't think that there were contaminants though. Am hoping that it just "wore out".
When Lorrie is next started, will see what the Oil Pressure is. Am no longer afraid to remove and reinstall the Oil Pump since it has been done a number of times recently. So THAT is no longer a big deal for me.
Am feeling good about having put in a NEW Oil Pump though. If the OLD one checks out, there'll just be a spare here.
Alright. There's another old saying: "The difference between an optimist and a pessimist is that the the optimist says the glass is half full. The pessimist says it is half empty. BUT the engineer says that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!"

Over the years, I've become better at doing this kind of stuff, but I'm by no means "good" at it, and probably never will be. It's sometimes a hobby, sometimes a necessity. Have done more with Lorrie than any other vehicle I've ever had.

She is having issues with her Right Rear Axle Oil Seal.

A NEW one was installed back a few years ago when she was being refurbished. I put it into the Axle Housing too far I'm afraid, and the Rubber Lip in the Seal is trying to seal where the Axle isn't machined. The roughness of the Axle is permitting the lubricant in the Differential to leak past the Seal. It isn't hurting anything, but it isn't right. Am going to fix that when the opportunity arises.

Anyway, thanks for the enlightening comments. Your reassurance is ALWAYS welcome.

Will be installing Lorrie's Oil Pan this morning. Will then be doing all the other stuff to button her back up. Won't be putting in the 10W30 Valvoline Motor Oil till tomorrow as the Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket Maker needs twenty-four hours to cure. Will be putting the Oil back in Lorrie on Monday, priming the Oil Pump, and seeing if she will start. Am hoping to see 55 PSI on the NEW Oil Pressure Gauge. Will keep you updated on progress.

Will just have to wait and see.
What will be will be.
Time will tell.
Be well.
JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

thinks you need to button it up and run it