For you hard core racers; What kind of bearings are you using in your race motors? I will start gathering parts for my K1 motor this year and would like to have your recommendations. Also any good places to purchase them?
This will be a K1/Wiesco big bore with Jeffrey head and 4 speed 4.56 gears if any of that matters. Looking to go shopping for a 12.99 on motor.
Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Hey, I have a couple of questions: When you say big bore, do you mean 100 thou over or bigger? What compression will you shoot for? Will this be a race only motor?
I a curious about the bearings as well.

Thanks Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers
68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original

I'm afraid I don't have a lot of preference here. I have heard of bad experiences with Fed Mog and Sealed Power brngs. I run Clevite77 or Michigan77 trimetal in all my motors. Run the clearances looser (0.018 - 0.025", a bit looser in this range on mains than rods) than the factory range (0.0005-0.015"). Cast crank motors will take a bit more clearance yet, from what I understand.

I have only run stock config (no "full groove"), but others like to run those. Gary Bruner and maybe Doc take the non-grooved half and chamfer a partial groove (maybe 15-25% of the way around, extending the groove in the direction of crank rotation (dremel/die grinder by hand).

FWIW, I do not have any "full race" motors, only street/track designs. I limit RPM to 5600-6200 depending on which motor and which parts. 6200 is the limit I have self imposed for the new 64 Dart K1/wiseco motor.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Clevite, or a true race bearing is what you need to use Rick. But keep in mind that most bearing companies offer both a street and race bearing, and many peoples failures are often because they base their selection on their pocketbook instead of what they really need and choose the wrong ones for their application. An H-series Clevite bearing would be more condusive for your needs, while the P-series might be ok for very mild performance builds, but not all out racing. Just compare prices and you'll see what I mean.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

This will be a race only motor. Probably 11.5- 12.0 to one.

I will probably go with the 3.484 bore to leave a little more meat in the block.

Where are you guys purchasing these "good" bearings?

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick, I run Ebay /Old stock Scores From Clevite / Michigan 77's In Rusters engines.

I run 2 Bottom Sets of mains in both the Bottom and top.. I have A bunch of extra Top Bearing Shells

I grind of the Locating tab for the Lower Shell when I put it in the top of the Main.

I also Use Clevites on the rods.. Stock configuration... No half Shell Swap mumbo jumbo theere.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That is what the slant six performance book says, but I never liked doing it that way. (actually it is the upper shell when installing in the cap)

1) you need to do it every time you change bearings.
2) it is possible to have a high spot, and the bearing to be tight on the crank.

I cut the notch in the cap to except the upper shell. It is easy to do with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. The depth is not critical, as long as it is deep enough, and the side location, is close enough with a scribed line.
Takes about the same time as doing the bearing shell, but once and done.

The other option is to just cut a groove in a stock lower bearing shell, by hand. That saves having to buy a second set of bearings.

PS: I am a firm believer in grooving the lower main bearing shell, either by cutting the groove, in a stock bearing, or using a extra upper shell in the cap.
Early in my days, running "stock eliminator", I did have some rod bearing issues. Since using full groove mains, I have had zero bearing issues.
I turn my nitrous 170 close to 7,000 rpm.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Charrlie is right..

I had it backwards... Damn Dyslexia..

I might Just try Notching the Cap this time instead of De notching the Bearing shell.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack