Looks like it it time for me to jump on and ask a question instead of sitting here reading everything else with only an occasional response here and there.

I am doing a complete restoration project on a non-Mopar car for another individual (long story) and am at the point of wiring up the car. I always solder/shrink wrap electrical connections and ran across these which appear to do both in one operation. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these and what that experience was. I am also looking for opinions on these as well. One of the things I do not care for with these is that there is no crimping required. I have not spoken with anyone who has used them and thought I would throw the question out here. I have also not asked asked vendors about this point as I feel their interest would be more as to making the sale (and my apology to Vendors who would give an honest answer regardless of the sale). Cost of the connectors is not an issue.

Description of the connectors which could be purchased:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrin ... s/p_801828

Utube video showing use:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d83XuNDnHLI

Thanks,
Fred

Loks like it might work reasonably well on new, bright copper, but if you have any old copper I don't see the flux adequately cleaning the corrosion. I crimp, solder and shrink-wrap myself and would be uncomfortable using these.

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Joshua

I to am a crimp, solder and seal with heat shrink guy,,

for the solder heat shrink tubes, the concept of a controlled amount of solder is good,,may work fine,, I am just trying to get comfortable accepting that the copper wires are getting hot enought to bond with the solder,, that you would not end up with a cold soldered joint or heat affected wire insulation...

recently I came across these small gauge parallel connectors,
I like the double strand at the joint, opposed to a butt connection.

I have not tried these but plan to on the next major re-wire...

http://www.statewire.com/index.php?cate ... e=Parallel Connectors

Thanks for the comments as well as the non-comments.

Everything is new and therefore would "hopefully" eliminate the corrosion issue. However, I don't like dealing with "hopeful" solutions and I don't want to get started on wiring up something one way based on everything being new and then doing it another way because the wiring is old. Dad Truck accurately hit on another area I just didn't feel comfortable with, that being the solder bonding with the wire, especially since there is no crimping involved.

Since 61 individuals viewed my question and I only received two responses, this also tells me there is no experience out there with these connectors and/or others didn't feel these were worth trying.

I'll stick with my old methods and will modify it by using the parallel connectors Dad Truck referenced.

Thanks again to everyone. I truely appreciate the vast amount of knowledge which is out on this forum and how easy it is to tap into it.

Fred

Those heat shrink solder-sleeves look like the "definition" of a cold solder joint- no way can you get enough heat into the wire for a good fuse.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Crimp, solder and seal with heat shrink is how I have always done it. But the fact is that some observations of old wiring harnesses by experts in the field, show the the crimped connectors often live longer than the soldered ones. Corrosion often show in the area where the wire enters the soldered part, it may be incorrect temeratures or solder types that cause it, or moisture trapped under the heat shrink. The deterioration of the section where breaks appear, is usually hidden by the heat shrink, thus preventing it from being discovered at an early stage. The soldered section is also stiffer than a crimped section, and may suffer from mechanical breakage. A conclusion is difficult to make, but it seem that a well performed crimp, with a protection in the form of a liquid rubber or simple dielectric fat to prevent corrosion, may be just as good a solution.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Boy! Those look like "da-bomb". Beats twisting together and then soldering.

Sam

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I have used these (not that exact brand, but same connectors) and I did not like them! There is a small bit of "convenience" to them, but they dont work as well as they should. Shrink tuning seals nice, but the solder does not melt in all that well. I made it through 2-3 solder joints using them and went back to just normal heat shrink and solder. At least the you get to make sure the wires are getting hot enough to accept the solder, and the solder is not just melting and getting sealed into the shrink sleeve...

Just my $.02 from experience. Maybe another brand will work better than the ones I used, but I didnt like them... Ive always just butted the wires together and fed in the solder once the wires are hot, then heat shrink, not crimps at all...

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Most of the time, I use a non insulated crimp connector, crimp to get a good mechanical connection, then solder, for a good electrical connection, then heat shrink with sealer tubing, to keep "weather out". The sealer type heat shrink, also helps "support" the connection, to prevent breakage at the solder point do to flexing.
FYI if you take a soldered connector, and a crimped connector, and bend the wires back and forth, the solder connection will break first.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

My money would be on excess rosin flux that wasn't cleaned off before sealing the connection.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Personally, I would love to have someone try to break one of my solder joints But yea, using a non-insulated butt connecter first will make it twice as strong!

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

curmudgeon,

I tried them and am not fond of them.....for a long term connection. It is far better to solder them.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

That's how they taught me in the Navy and how I've done it ever since. Charrlie's last sentence is also correct, but like the guy who told his doctor
"Doc, it hurts when I do that."

And the Doc said "Don't do that.")

That's why God gave us zip ties!

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!