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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:04 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
I wasn't sure which Weber thread to put this in and couldn't find the old stickied one, but I just wanted to share my new carb setup. This is on a 1968 Dodge Dart with a cable style throttle. I just thought I'd share in case someone else wanted to do this.

I was originally going to mount the supersix intake with the Carter BBD, but after rebuilding the Carter and looking at it... it was still 1,000 years old looking, and I didn't know how it would run, and I didn't want to dish out $100 or more on a kickdown rod which I didn't have... so I bought a Weber 38/38. I also bought a kickdown cable - which I never wound up using.

The kit was brand new,
K-551-38 Electric choke.

intended for a Jeep with a 254 (? or whatever the inline6 is), and it cost $330 through Amazon. I figured the tuning would be at least close enough to run on the 225. It came with both plates, one to mount to the intake, and one for the carb to mount to that, and a kickdown lever already on it to operate a vertical kickdown rod. I had to toss the longer rod out of the mix, since it was way too long and needed a bend to it.

I took the kickdown rod off the throttle cam side, and moved it closer to the exhaust side of the motor by one hole. Then I attached the PCV valve to the top most mounting plate, and used a supplied button bolt to plug the overflow port.

Here's the cool thing about this setup, I was able to REUSE THE STOCK 1bbl KICKDOWN, which had me scratching my head with the Carter setup. I also reused the stock return spring arm, but bent it down some, so the spring pulled out, and downward. The fuel line is also in a spot where you can easily run 8" of hose right back to where the filter is, and just ditch the little solid line that used to be attached to the Holley.

To get the throttle re-attached, I took the stock rod that was there, detached the holding ring, and opened up the rod end 1/32" or so so it would go over the kickdown arm and took the bolt with ball socket on it, undid the bolt, slipped the bolt back through the arm AND rod end, and bolted it back on. Perfect fit. For the attachment to the kickdown lever, i took a rod out of a old seat back, and bent it to fit for now, to see which bend is ideal. I made a 22.5* bend-ish in it, and put a hook on the bottom end so it could move slightly without binding. I left the end to see if a different bend would work - once I have what I want there, I'll make a more robust rod to operate the kickdown lever on the exhaust manifold.

The electric choke is just attached to +12v IGN.

SO far kickdown operates normally, and the shifts are not rough, and the gear kicks down when you mash the gas. I'd say it works. Only thing I'm having an issue with is the gas pedal not returning all the way. It still needs to set back about 1/8" for the cam to rest back on the idle screw again without it revving high at idle after you push the gas. Little things.

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So far it runs just fine - idles quietly, and gets up and moves. It's a lot louder than the open element Holley 1920 I had on here, so be prepared for that. It definitely sounds more like an old German car or something. Hard to describe the sound so hopefully you know what I mean. There's an improvement over the stock power for sure, and it is noticable, but that's about it. Just thought to share.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:23 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 289
Location: Leesburg Indiana
Car Model:
Thanks for posting this.
I have the 32/36 for jeep that i'm going to put on mine this summer.
Did you have to do any rejetting with yours?
Thanks

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:41 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
Quote:
Thanks for posting this.
I have the 32/36 for jeep that i'm going to put on mine this summer.
Did you have to do any rejetting with yours?
Thanks

Dave
I didn't change them, I am still trying to find what size the jets are on the kit, but all I can find is "this kit has jets and tune to fit your application for JEEP" I was just hoping that since the engine size is with 30ish CIs then it would work as a bolt on for now. Nothing done to it, just popped it on, and ran. It started within a couple cranks of first bolting it on and runs quiet till you put your foot in it. I'll tune it eventually, but other than that - as-is in the kit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 289
Location: Leesburg Indiana
Car Model:
Ok thanks

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:00 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:49 pm
Posts: 28
Car Model:
Very interesting setup. I am looking at this seriously for my 1966 Dart. However, the 32/36 progressive carb is more its speed. I would be curious how xjarhead does on his vehicle with the 32/36. Would be neat if you did a write upon the kick down modification as you get it tuned in.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:08 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
Well I actually did make headway with the kickdown. As I tossed the choke coil on the ground I remembered it had a rod on it. It's not super sturdy, but it had some cool bends in it that looked about the part. Damn did the back end fit perfectly on the lever - I reused the clip that held it in the choke too - it looks stock. The top end is another story. I had to use minor bends on that, but the U shaped bend in the center allowed me to move it out of the way of the throttle. Still developing it, but ran out of daylight.

I was going to do the 32/36 as well, but the 38/38 just sounded better after research if I ever plan to upgrade the motor more. I think next is exhaust - defnitly - just a simple 2.5" all the way back.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:03 am 
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EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 289
Location: Leesburg Indiana
Car Model:
Quote:
Very interesting setup. I am looking at this seriously for my 1966 Dart. However, the 32/36 progressive carb is more its speed. I would be curious how xjarhead does on his vehicle with the 32/36. Would be neat if you did a write upon the kick down modification as you get it tuned in.
My truck is a stick so I wont be dealing with the kick down issue.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:17 pm 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2014 9:49 pm
Posts: 28
Car Model:
Serj,

Do you happen to have any additional angles showing the kick down on the lower section of the firewall. My 1966 Dart is different in that area. I don't know that I can hook it all up like you did or if I will need to use cables instead.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:56 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:39 am
Posts: 519
Location: Australia
Car Model:
Looks great! Are you running the standard fuel pump without a pressure regulator? I've heard Webers don't like very much fuel pressure,just interested for planning my own conversion down the track. Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:01 pm 
Offline
EFI Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 289
Location: Leesburg Indiana
Car Model:
Quote:
Looks great! Are you running the standard fuel pump without a pressure regulator? I've heard Webers don't like very much fuel pressure,just interested for planning my own conversion down the track. Thanks!
Yeah from what i have read between 2-4 lbs is all they like.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 7:23 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
It's the stock fuel pump. I was thinking the stock one would not pump as hard as an electric remote one, but I think it is getting too much pressure. It has that sizzle when you shut down like one would have with too much fuel pressure. Since they're inexpensive I'll hook one and set it and see what happens.

I have had a better breakthrough with the kickdown/throttle. The Kickdown works so smoothly. It's hard to tell the car even shifted. Very gentle. As for the throttle, I put a stronger spring in, and bent the throttle return mount over towards the firewall - it now closes all the way.

For the kickdown rod I literally used the choke coil rod off the old choke. It's mounted to the lower lever below the exhaust, and bent a hook in the top, and clipped it together with the throttle cable on the lever. Why mess with success right? Maybe get a different rod later.

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Also, why is it purple? Everyone has a race-me orange, blue, or red, black, yellow one. Rarely or never saw a purple one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 11:49 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
Quote:
Serj,

Do you happen to have any additional angles showing the kick down on the lower section of the firewall. My 1966 Dart is different in that area. I don't know that I can hook it all up like you did or if I will need to use cables instead.
I can take a picture of whatever you need. Do you mean where the kickdown rod passes under the firewall? Or a view as if the firewall is taking a picture of the rod? Let me know I'll get it for ya.

I really like any and all feedback.

As for putting it on a stick, maybe you want the kit anyway so you don't have to alter the pedal cable in any way. In that case it just moves the throttle over to be used closer to the edge of the manifold. I'm just trying to suggest this may be a bolt on and go kit. I did not use anything at all besides what was already bolted to the car (except 2bbl manifold).

I ordered a f.p.regulator too since it seems a lot of research brings up an under 4psi necessity. Since I'm interested in longevity and durability, I'll take the necessary Steps. It'll be here Tuesday and I'll continue then, but otherwise I'll be able to take any pictures.


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 Post subject: fuel pressure
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:32 am 
Offline
Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Yes, I'm running dual 32/34 DFT Webers and the stock fuel pump pressure was too high. It would work, but was prone to flooding, not good, washdown a risk. I use the Holley fuel pressure regulator, keep the pressure at 4, works wonderfully. The carbs are never starved for fuel and work perfectly.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... b.jpg.html

bg


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 Post subject: color
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:35 am 
Offline
Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I like the purple...I've never seen a purple engine. :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: fuel pressure
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 2:21 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 4:39 am
Posts: 519
Location: Australia
Car Model:
Quote:
Yes, I'm running dual 32/34 DFT Webers and the stock fuel pump pressure was too high. It would work, but was prone to flooding, not good, washdown a risk. I use the Holley fuel pressure regulator, keep the pressure at 4, works wonderfully. The carbs are never starved for fuel and work perfectly.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... b.jpg.html

bg
Thanks for the info guys,looks like a pressure reg is the way to go. Hey 67 Dart 270, that's a really great looking setup ,what cam are you running? I'm slowly collecting parts for a similar build. Thanks


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