Agreed! Did Spec ever do anything with your PP ??

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Spec sent a re-engineered PP and disc. I have not had a chance to try it yet, but it looks and feels much stiffer/stronger than the other one. Still a 9-9.2" size.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

From Mike at RAM:

"NO, you would not have to purchase both kits I can sell you the separate components, just not in a kit. I apologize if I somehow made it out that way. The issue is, in both cases these kits use the stock pressure plate and a paddle style metallic clutch disc - so the increase in hold is achieved not through increased pressure but rather a more aggressive friction material. So bottom line, the clutch is going to engage much more aggressively with this type of disc. You have to decide if you can live with that - it means slipping the clutch more/more RPM on takeoff and getting used to the engagement in order to make a smooth transition."

So, my bad.

Granted, my experience with driving manual transmission cars is mostly plush, modern vehicles, so Mike's concern may be valid. Do you guys think that the higher revs and clutch slippage required by the more aggressive friction material would make the car a lot less fun to drive in a street only car? Do any of you guys who use higher friction clutch's drive on the street much, or do you use them mostly for racing?

Again, I don't plan to race my car at all, but I'd like the clutch to last for 5-10K miles (at least) behind a +/- 200 hp slant with a 3.90 axle. If stock replacement parts will handle that, I'll stick with that instead of wasting money overbuilding.

I just feel like I might be on the tipping point between stock stuff and upgraded parts, and frequent clutch replacement doesn't sound fun. If I can ever get this trans in, I'd rather nor have to worry about it for a while.

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vm

BTW, anybody see this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281287133987?it ... 60&vxp=mtr

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vm

I have a couple of them in the garage. It looks like I am setting on a gold mine!

As for the clutch disc. Ryan ran a Mcleod Disc in his Dart for close to 50000 miles, (10 years) and thousands of hard launches. That disc worked great and engaged smoothly. It had dual friction materials. Organic on one side and Kevlar or something else on the other. Maybe they or someone else makes a dual friction type disc for the mustang. Then you have the best of both worlds.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

For a 200HP give/take engine, go with the stock replacement material disc. Easier to drive and should last a long time. My bet is you won't like the aggressive disc and will waste your money too. My stock Mustang disc lasted 10-15k miles of hard beating behind a 250 HP motor.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks, Lou, will do!

Mike is also asking me about a release bearing:
I was trying to avoid a hydraulic throwout to save some money. It seems like a remote slave mount would be something even I could fabricate, plus it would be easier to service if I had any problems.

Does anyone know offhand whether a regular T-5 throwout bearing would or would not "play nice" with the slant six clutch fork or pressure plate? Doesn't the clutch fork just press against the throwout bearing? Is there a specific way that they need to interact? Here's where my lack of experience with manuals and mixing applications really starts to hurt.

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vm

Thanks, Lou, will do!

Mike is also asking me about a release bearing:
I was trying to avoid a hydraulic throwout to save some money. It seems like a remote slave mount would be something even I could fabricate, plus it would be easier to service if I had any problems.

Does anyone know offhand whether a regular T-5 throwout bearing would or would not "play nice" with the slant six clutch fork or pressure plate? Doesn't the clutch fork just press against the throwout bearing? Is there a specific way that they need to interact or fit together? Here's where my lack of experience with manuals and mixing applications really starts to hurt.

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vm

The 65 Mustang (toploader or T10?) TOB slides on the T5 bearing retainer and is close in depth to the Mopar 833 TOB. You can modify your clutch fork to work with that.

DusterKev has the all mechanical setup (w/Mustang TOB) I engineered back in 2001. Think it is running on his turbo car.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That right there is some good info! Hopefully we will all remember it in the future!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Dang skippy it is! Added to my Rock Auto shopping cart.

Thanks yet again, Lou!

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vm

Ryan Kovalt has a new-in-the-box McCloud TOB I used on my mechanical set up for my T-5. He can get the part number for you off the box.

Sam

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FYI, 10 years after I participated in the T-5 bell housing group-buy, I've "officially" started turning wrenches on the swap. I pulled the auto pedal box today, and started fitting the hydraulic clutch master cylinder bracket I got from American Powertrain.

I've caved in and decided to go with a hydraulic throwout bearing. I'd originally wanted to fab brackets and use a slave, but I've decided I'm not thrilled with trying make a clutch fork work with the T-5 slant hybrid.

The guy at Ram clutches tried to talk me into a hydro throwout when I bought my clutch and pressure plate a few months ago, so I think I'll go with theirs. Sounds like I need to tweak something to make theirs work with the WC T-5:

http://www.ramclutches.com/products/str ... aring.html

Thanks again to Lou and all you guys for all your help so far.

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vm

Congratulations! Keep us posted.

Sam

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You'll like this swap. The hydro bearing is the way to go. I was just noting to myself that I have a 12 yr old McLeod hydro TOB (concentric with input shaft) that has ~40k on it and plenty of thrashing. Still fine.

I think folks who have had leak issues either did not bleed theirs properly, or did not get a good geometry for the linkage from the pedal to the clutch MC.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988