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 Post subject: crankshaft removal
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 7:43 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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1965 d100 225 engine on engine stand. engine rotated on engine stand to allow pan removed and displaying rotating assembly upward for ease of work.



I have done this on "other manufacturers engines" by simply removing timing chain and removing rod and main caps.

I ask this question in hypothetical for a soon decision to be made by me to, utilize a different engine or continue with this one. I have no intention to disassemble head, pistons etc.

So, here is my question,.....

Can the crankshaft be easily removed at the juncture described in the first paragraph above ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:14 am 
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Yes.
(the main seal cap will also have to be removed)


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 Post subject: Yes...
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Can the crankshaft be easily removed at the juncture described in the first paragraph above ?
Just like Doc said with the main caps, rod caps, and rear main seal removed it should lift right out with a tug...that being said easy isn't the first word I'd use on an early forged crank as the thing weighs more than the late forged cranks and any cast crank...make sure you use both hands, plant your feet and don't twist your back.

:lol:

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:10 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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The replies are appreciated. I pulled the engine this afternoon after hearing from you. Gordo .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:47 am 
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Quote:
...I have no intention to disassemble head, pistons etc.
So why are you pulling the engine and crankshaft?
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:28 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
Car Model:
Engine Background,.. only 65000 miles on one owner truck. I put a 79 head on it so,.. 1500 miles later I started to hear a slight thunking noise. it was different sounding than a rod going out. So then I watched the oil pressure under acceleration for main bearings and it held stable. So I decided to have a look see. Due to it being a "thunk" and unlike a "rod sound knock" I yet admit to being unsure.

Pretty cold out today in the gravel pit. I hope to examine either today or tomorrow.

The question about crank removal was for my options. I am looking to that area first. due to knowing " knocking rod sounds" from my hot rod youth,... Right now I am downright curious


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 3:42 pm 
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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"Exploratory surgery"... fair enough.
Let us know what you find.
As an FYI, I have some .001 & .002 under main bearings if you find some badly worn mains.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 5:39 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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Hey Doc, Sounds as if you are stocked up on undersize main bearings,... hmm,. that makes me think,.. Lol

I am anxious to see. It may be just a short while to respond, but is surely will. I am pushing 80 yrs. Plus it is still cold in my environment. Gordo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:04 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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Well, I did get back to it today. After micing the rod journals I could use some undersize bearings I am looking for one thousands undersize rod bearings. the ones in it were Clevite 55 CB 606 G

I went to my local Napa and they told me that the CB 606 was a undersize one thousands. !!

I say they are full of "Bog Fooey" I believe CB 606 G is standard size,.?

What say you,?,... and where do I purchase one thousands undersize rod bearings.?

Gordo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:58 pm 
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They should be listed as CB 606 G1
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:11 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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Yes, and these lack that. Bad news is they no longer make a .001 undersize. So,.. either grind the crank to .010 or put a V/8 in it. Lest someone knows where I can purchase .001's


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:20 pm 
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Gordo
DD said a couple of posts up that he has some .001 and.002 under if you need them. :D :oops: :oops:
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Yes... I have some.
Also this ebag seller
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:58 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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Whoops, Sorry Frank,....I thought Doc above said he mentioned Main bearings.

I did not see that he had rod bearings. Nothing mentioned about from Doc about rod bearings.?

How about it Doc,.. I would like to purchase some rod bearings ,001 from you lest Frank is mistaken.

More likely I missed something though,..Me,... elder ya know etc. Gordo ( :


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:36 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
Posts: 2432
Location: East Arkansas
Car Model:
Actually MY bust :oops: :oops:
But Doc will hook you up anyway :D :D :D
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered


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